Newbie in need of tech help...please

[86GN-862+2]

Hello everybody, Jr. in West Texas here, I need some help with my "new" car. I just bought a 1986 GN this past week. Went to get it and never made it home. So much for the "runs good" part on the ad. I figured I could get it to run better after I got it home with the help from people who know these cars in and out. For starters, the car was idling a bit erratic when I picked it up. It ran well enough to carry me for over 250 miles then the problems started. At first, the engine light came on making the engine stall. I was still a good 200 miles from home so I decided to keep going. It then began to sort of die off every now and then. I kept pumping on the gas pedal just keep it running. The engine was guzzling fuel by this time and running like crap plus black smoke was coming out the exhaust. I was trying not to let it backfire by not getting on the gas normally. The car then started to only go about 50mhp and gradually went down to around 10mph until it died 5 miles outside the next town where I parked it then trailered it home the rest of the way(1 week interim).I ran it long enough to get on and off the trailer. At home, I tried to read the codes using the "non-scan" method to no avail. Something kept me from being able to write down the codes because the computer kept reseting itself. All the ECM controlled relays kept clicking on and off including the non-ecm controlled high speed fan relay. I tried looking for a loose connection on all the relays and sensors and trying to see if all the grounding straps were tight. All checked out OK but the wiring harness does have a bunch of taped up wires which I don't even know where they go and they are just loose. There was a clicking appearing to be coming from inside the plenum(dog-house) which I could not figure out what it was. The problem right now is that the ECM won't stay on long enough for me to read the codes. Any ideas? Bad ECM or chip? HELP. The engine light flashes about 3-4 times per second while the ignition is on the "on" position and engine is off--FYI boost gauge shows vacuum when not under acceleration.

----I do not have any regrets on the purchase of my Buick. It is replacing a 1987 Monte SS which I lost in my divorce. Looking forward to driving this machine on a regular basis!! I'm going to enjoy it as much as I can. Thanx in advance y'all!!

 

[mikestertwo]

A flashing check engine light usually means a bad eprom or bad ecm. Try reseating the eprom and see what happens. List the mods done to the car.

 

[86GN-862+2]

I have reset the computer by disconnecting the red wire by the battery. It goes back to the same condition. The ignition module has been replaced(it is just loose hanging by the old one). I don't know if anything else is not original since this is my first turbo car. Also, the MAF has only one honeycomb screen behind the sensor part and nothing on the other side. I just cannot read any codes because the computer seens to be shorting out. It will "catch" on long enough to throw the 12, 12, 12 and then it flickers off.

 

[klrv6]

12 is normal if the engine is not rotating. I am not 100% sure but the clicking may be from the EGR solenoid located on the drivers side of the intake. Maybe unplug it and see if it runs (may be shorted). Can you post pics of the wire mess? Reseat the prom in the computer. Make sure the main connector is tight on it too.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Ign module has to be grounded thru the mount base bolts.
The base sits on a brkt at the rear, and on studs on the back of the plenum.
Something else wrong, if all you are getting is 12, 12,12.. That's the indicator that the ecm has no stored codes.
B4 you go further, I'd do the spring cleaning, check ALL wiring, especially the fuse links and the + cable, to be sure it's not shorted on the Dp.
Look at the - cable under the turbo, to be sure it's hooked up.

 

[diomedes]

Welcome!! I purchased mine a year ago and Im still consuming information like a mad man.
The critical item to get your car tuned is the powerlogger. It tells you everthing going on in the engine.
These cars are can definitely be love hate, but mainly love as soon as you work out those evil phantoms.
Best wishes with your problems.

 

[Red C5]

Welcome to the club. This site is full of useful info.

 

[GNRick]

Sounds like a bad MAF. Try unplugging it and see if that helps.

 

[bmackinnon]

A flashing check engine light usually means a bad eprom or bad ecm. Try reseating the eprom and see what happens. List the mods done to the car.

This advice is correct regarding your current rapidly flashing SES lite. Access the ecm (pass. side kick panel in front of the door), pull the cover off, and remove and reseat the chip. Make sure you disconnect the battery before doing this. Also follow Chucks advice regarding the ign. module and batt cables. See what that does, and report back. The clicking around the doghouse is the egr and/or iac cycling....normal. When you ground the diagnostic pins, all the relays, etc. start functioning for diagnosing things.
Go to /join Turbo Regal Web Site and start reading.... welcome!!

 

[86GN-862+2]

Thank you everyone who is trying to help. I do not have any tools for this car as of yet but I will start making a list and buying them as I can afford them. I will be working on the car on the weekends since I work all day during the week. I will post up what I find out about everybody's recommendations. I did disconnect the MAF, IAC and vacuum canister to see if any of that helped. At one time, disconnecting the MAF did yield a better idle quality but lacked driveability during acceleration. Right now, I still cannot read the codes and it idles like crap plus it spews black smoke out the exhaust. I'll see if I can get to the computer-chip part this weekend. The battery cable checked out OK and the battery itself is but a month old or so.
I will also be replacing the thermostat with a 180 degree unit. What/where is the calpak? :biggrin:

 

[bmackinnon]

Change the t'stat to a 160*, not 180*.... you won't be able to get one from the local autzone.... but rather will likely need to use a TR vendor. The calpack is the skinny chip located next to THE chip, under the ecm cover I told you about above. The calpack is likely fine and is unique to the turbo regals. If it were bad, the car probably wouldn't have run at all. Like I said above, rapidly flashing SES lite indicates chip/ecm problem..... not MAF or otherwise (though that may be another problem...). Pull the ecm and remove (carefully pry out)/clean if req'd/reseat the chip.... it's the bigger one and held by the standard chip 'carrier'. Also, check very carefully that the connectors going into the ecm are clean and seated properly. Water easily finds it's way to that connector in these cars and can cause the problems you are having. If you end up needing to replace the ecm, you will need to swap over the calpack from the old ecm. Here's a link for ecm's that will cross over.... plentiful in the boneyard... and cheap! Service Part #1227148
86/87 ECM Car List

Hope that helps!

 

[Just a Six??]

I agree! Open up the kickpanel, remove computer & open the small 2x6" cover with 2 screws. remove & inspect the chip. Bet some water got in over time. Keep us posted.

 

[86GN-862+2]

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Well gentlemen, I have found the culprit. Turns out the spark plugs were ALL fouled up! I replaced them and voila! It lives! Now the only other details I need to address are : faulty spark plug wires(spark jumping off them occasionally), faulty MAF sensor or connections or TPS mal-adjusted, and new engine wiring harness. The reason why the plugs got fouled up to begin with bothers me . They were oily and had carbon build up on all of them. Also, I found out the last spark plug on the passenger side is tricky to replace because the a/c is on the way. Got my 5/8" plug wrench and a swivel 3/4" socket to fit over the plug socket and problem solved as well.

 

[meanchicken]

If the plugs weren't firing with full spark, then they got fuel fouled and that's why they're nasty looking. Pull your new plugs after you put some miles on them and see if they look normal or not.

I had a similar problem (one of many) when I first bought mine. New wires, plugs, coil pack (it was bad), fuel filter, fuel pump and replacing all my vac hoses fixed the vast majority of my more serious driveability issues.

Cleaning out the intercooler also helped.

Definitely get a scanmaster and good vac/boost gauge if you think the one you have is faulty.

 

[86GN-862+2]

I'll do that here in the next few weeks. It's around 2am and I just took it for a test drive. Driveshaft needs new joints:frown: . Code 34 persists. Boost gauge is an Auto Meter and shows vacuum while in idle and only 10#'s in full throttle. The vacuum hoses will follow then the I/C. Thanx to everyone!! Very helpfull:smile: Slowly but surely.

 

[turbojimmy]

The spark plugs were probably fouled because you drove it hundreds of miles with it running poorly. This means you probably haven't found the real problem yet. The plugs will probably foul again and you'll be back where you were. But at least now it's running and you can do some trouble shooting.

The first major investment you should make in the car is a scan tool.

Good luck!

Jim

 

[SMS]

The spark plugs were probably fouled because you drove it hundreds of miles with it running poorly. This means you probably haven't found the real problem yet. The plugs will probably foul again and you'll be back where you were. But at least now it's running and you can do some trouble shooting.

The first major investment you should make in the car is a scan tool.

Good luck!

Jim

+1 In fact, I would try to refrain from driving the car until you have the $$ to really go through it and repair/replace the MAF, chip, plug wires, coil pack, etc. Otherwise you will end up just chasing your tail, and whatever the real problem is may end up damaging some of the parts you replace. I hope this isn't your daily driver. I hate to say it, but it sounds like this car has not had the best of care.

 

[86GN-862+2]

+1 In fact, I would try to refrain from driving the car until you have the $$ to really go through it and repair/replace the MAF, chip, plug wires, coil pack, etc. Otherwise you will end up just chasing your tail, and whatever the real problem is may end up damaging some of the parts you replace. I hope this isn't your daily driver. I hate to say it, but it sounds like this car has not had the best of care.

Right you are. Although the car is rust free, the previous owner parked it under a tree and there is sap all over the paint job. Found a remanufactured MAF sensor 20 miles away for $59.99 at Autozone less $25 core. Gonna get it plus new plug wires and I'm looking into the scan tool as well. Interior is rotten from excessive moisture(car was near the coast) but new seat covers and carpet should fix that easily. It's looking better already! Thank you sirs!

 

[SMS]

Beware of re-manufactured MAF's! Most of the time they don't work right because the calibration is never correct. Genuine GM NOS MAF's are hard to find and very pricey. IMO just buy a translator set up from Full Throttle, and use a LS1 MAF.

 

[86GN-862+2]

Beware of re-manufactured MAF's! Most of the time they don't work right because the calibration is never correct. Genuine GM NOS MAF's are hard to find and very pricey. IMO just buy a translator set up from Full Throttle, and use a LS1 MAF.

Been looking at this, it will cost me around $350 for the 2 parts. I can probably get it next month...for the time being the cheaper option is the way to go. My daily driver is a 454SS truck:tongue: which runs excellent. Thank you sirs again!