New motor - when to switch to Synthetic oil?

Chris McDade

Active Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2001
I have Pennzoil 10-30 in now for break in oil. This is a roller cam setup. I have about 15 miles on this new combo. When is a good time to switch over the full synthetic? I will run Mobil 1 or royal purple when I make the switch....Thanks
 
I have Pennzoil 10-30 in now for break in oil. This is a roller cam setup. I have about 15 miles on this new combo. When is a good time to switch over the full synthetic? I will run Mobil 1 or royal purple when I make the switch....Thanks
If your oil doesn't tell you that it is break in oil,it's not break in oil. Break in oil will have high levels of ZDDP and low levels of extreme pressure lubricants. If you had actual break in oil you would need to drive it for at least 500 miles of regular driving or take the car out for a few full throttle runs. After doing either of these two things,you can use any kind of oil you want. I pray that you chose one that has the word racing in the title as they tend to have higher levels of ZDDP.
 
I have a 2009 Escape, used conventional oil its whole life. Local store has a great deal on synthetic oil, what the heck - I mean newer motors are made so much better than anything in the 20th century, what could go wrong? Within two days it was leaking - never a drop before that. Oh, but it's known that motors with lots of miles that have only used conventional will leak if you switch to synthetic all of a sudden. Listen, I'll give you a drink, it will make you feel better than you ever have in your life. That same drink gave my grandma rectal cancer and caused her tits to fall off, but I swear, that only happens to elderly women! Drink up!! Would you? Yeah, its a new build, knock yourself out.
 
Well I didn't know this would stir the pot! I didn't put any additives in the oil for break in so, I guess I will change the oil again with regular oil and then go synthetic 500-1000 miles down the road. Thanks
 
Nice answers guys way to show some respect to a good Buick guy who's been around a long time, & I'll add ever buy a part from him? If/when u do it'l probly arrive to you looking like something straight from gm.

Chris try emailing James Morrissey at Royal Purple for your questions, seems knowledgeable & you can take his answers with a grain of salt, verify with someone else just a thought, if you can't find his email on the rp site pm me I have it somewhere..
 
Thanks, deezdad! Yes, im still around these cars are in the blood. I will look up his email address and try to reach out to him.
 
hello people; Personally I would go at least a couple thousand miles and then go full syn. I would probably change it at about 500 then again at 2000 or 3000 and then go syn. The oil subject usually brings out all kinds of thoughts and that was mine.
Also the additive might not be needed with M1 (if you go that route) but I use M1 and the additive. That M1 is super slippery and I like it. I go 5000 miles between changes and ch. the level at least every other gas fill.
Also the oil filter subject brings out a lot of thoughts if you ask.
have fun
IBBY
 
When is a good time to switch over the full synthetic? I will run Mobil 1 or royal purple when I make the switch....Thanks
you can run whatever you want.i run mobil 1 15-50 in my rpe motor with a lot of success.i have used just about everything in these cars and am partial to the full syn 15-50 mobil.my car sees a lot of street duty and a lot of hits.we have a 7 sec car here that uses conventional though;)confused yet:D
 
My engine builder ran break in oil, he had my car for a couple of weeks and put some miles on and some hard pulls. He then put VR 20W50 and told me to run it until I put about 2000 miles on it. Once I put the 2000 miles then switch over to synthetic racing oil. If you built your engine you should know these things, not trying to sound like a smart ass. If someone else built it they should have a break-in procedure and when and even whether you should use synthetic.
 
Synthetic will likely find a place to get out. Valvoline VR1 has been good for me. I run synthetic in all my new cars without a problem.
 
My engine builder ran break in oil, he had my car for a couple of weeks and put some miles on and some hard pulls. He then put VR 20W50 and told me to run it until I put about 2000 miles on it. Once I put the 2000 miles then switch over to synthetic racing oil. If you built your engine you should know these things, not trying to sound like a smart ass. If someone else built it they should have a break-in procedure and when and even whether you should use synthetic.

I'm just curious. How many miles have you put on the car after switching to synthetic and do you have any oil leaks?
 
I'm just curious. How many miles have you put on the car after switching to synthetic and do you have any oil leaks?

I have run Moble 1 synthetic 5w30 since '87 (5k miles) when the GSXtra ran the conventional vs. synthetic oil turbo comparisons. I changed to lip type rear main and front cover seals in '90 when the rear main dripped a bit. It has been drip free for 50k miles until the valve covers started leaking a year ago.
 
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I dont get it. Total seal rings and I'm positive, many other ring manufacturers explain engine break in, right in the instruction manual. Why do people think they should do anything else? I've always followed directions and have not had any issues.
 
The advancement's in technology regarding engine parts quality and tolerances is not what it was 30+ years ago so I guess there may be some give and take. As mentioned a break in oil is described as such and the old school break in mileage was at least 500 miles while not stressing the engine with boost or high rpm's, just my thoughts.
 
hello people; Just to talk about oil leaks a bit but I had asked about that here. I asked is a TB oil leak prone? and the answers I got was yes they leak. People say it's because of the boost but I had chased oil leaks but now unless it gets real bad I'll deal with it. Now when I park in my driveway I put something under the engine area to try and keep an eye on it.
IBBY
 
New 1,000 HP StageII........start it on ANY quality 10w-30, run it for 18-20 minutes varying throttle a little, then shut it off, drain oil, remove filter, cut it open, check for copious amount of debris (there WILL be some). Add new 10w-30 quality oil and new filter. Start engine, warm to operating temp, put in gear, foot on brake (or trans brake) and slowly bring it up to 2-3 lbs of boost, then NAIL the throttle!!!!! Watch the boost gauge hit 18-20 psi! Then, and this the most important part.............take it to the damn track and run it like you stole it. I've been building race engines since 1977. Never had an issue unless there was a machining issue. (Only twice in that time frame). Or be a wuss and drive it like Hillary (in the back seat):wacky:
 
Synthetic will likely find a place to get out. Valvoline VR1 has been good for me. I run synthetic in all my new cars without a problem.
So if there's a bucket with a pinhole in it conventional won't leak out but synthetic will? That's basically what this type of theory goes by.
If the viscosity is the same how can one leak and not the other?
 
So if there's a bucket with a pinhole in it conventional won't leak out but synthetic will? That's basically what this type of theory goes by.
The theories are the why or how; the fact is, it happens. I'm not going by what I read on the interwebs by some faceless know-it-all, or what the friend of a cousin of a brother-in-law once said, I go with what *my* eyes and *my* garage floor tell me. The most common *theory* is that, when using conventional oils, seals "swell" into place and when a change is made to synthetic, they shrink or crack or something, and leaks begin. Sounded kinda hooey to me and that's why I didn't give much thought about using synthetic on my Escape. Well, lesson learned, and, from a sealing point of view, the engine is ruined. No way is it worth rebuilding it to replace various seals and I'm not going further down the rabbit hole hoping some snake oil in a bottle will fix it. Just means checking the oil more frequently, and, afterall, the Buick has guaranteed there's kitty litter handy in the garage already :p
 
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