New GN, problems need advice...

L

lynchburgsam

New Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2007
I just got this 87 GN in November with 39K original miles. Only driven a few times and now something is wrong with it. I'm not an idiot, but I'm not much of a mechanic (and this is the first TR I've driven). It appears that the turbo might be screwed up. Driving down the road, went to pass, and nothing happened...Turbo didn't spool up and the engine acted like it was about to die. Check engine light comes on, and it continues to run, but you have to ease in to the gas just to keep the engine going. If you punch it, it just stalls, and does nothing. Barely idling now. I doubt I have the time or patience to tackle the problem myself, but I want a great running car. I figure that Mr. Goodwrench would rape me on parts and labor. Anyone know a good mechanic in southern TN (Winchester/ Tullahoma area) or have any advice? Thanks.
 
So you never heard the turbo spool period? Did you check for massive holes in your exhaust piping or some type of problem with your wastegate? Besides that, the turbo would have to be locked up for it to not spool at all I would think....
 
Yeah it spooled up fine and the car ran fine when I bought it. I drove it 400 miles home. Not a lot of stop and go, but when you got into the gas the turbo would spool up and then it was off to the races. I don't know of any other issues. This just happened this morning on the way home from work.
 
I'd suspect the MAF first off.

When idling, hit the MAF with a screw driver, if it stumbles then you'll gonna need a new one and what you mentioned sounds like thats the problem.

Adam
 
Problems

Where are you located...In Memphis im guessing from the names of those two roads or at least those names are roads in Memphis..anyway...Im in Jackson Tn and come to Memphis all the time, if thats where you are....Let me know if you need some help...Tim
 
Hi,
How about a major air leak, upside of the turbo? Check the hoses at all connections. Any turboed engine will barely run with out proper airflow in this area. Basically, the MAF will give regular info to the ECM,which adds fuel and spark accordingly,only the compressed air delivery is interupted. The motor will barely run, lots of overfueling, hence black smoke.I don't know if this fits the bill for yor problem, but it is worth a look. Good luck with your trouble.
 
I would start with the mass air flow sensor , check that first as was said above. You will probably have a code 33 or 34 on the SES light.
 
Theres 2 things that happened with my car that created the same symptoms. One was faulty wiring to the ECM. The orange power wire had torn strands inside right before the fuse link. It was a couple years before I found that problem. I cut out the bad section of wire and soldered it back together, and the intermittent problem went away. It was as if it was creating a valet mode (in the chip) sort of issue. I never suspected this since I never did lose any of my programmed settings with the extender. Somehow the power tot he ECM was coming and going, yet it never erased my settings somehow. Get a voltmeter and unplug that wire and check continuity at each end while wiggling the wire around.
The other issue was the MAF. If I gave it any gas at all, it would fall on its face. The power wire issue to the ECM would only cause a problem when I hit boost. With the MAF problem, ANY application of the throttle would make the car fall on its face and I could barely get over 15mph.
 
lynchburgsam said:
I just got this 87 GN in November with 39K original miles. Only driven a few times and now something is wrong with it. I'm not an idiot, but I'm not much of a mechanic (and this is the first TR I've driven). It appears that the turbo might be screwed up. Driving down the road, went to pass, and nothing happened...Turbo didn't spool up and the engine acted like it was about to die. Check engine light comes on, and it continues to run, but you have to ease in to the gas just to keep the engine going. If you punch it, it just stalls, and does nothing. Barely idling now. I doubt I have the time or patience to tackle the problem myself, but I want a great running car. I figure that Mr. Goodwrench would rape me on parts and labor. Anyone know a good mechanic in southern TN (Winchester/ Tullahoma area) or have any advice? Thanks.
Click to expand...

check the up pipe from the intercooler.i had a very similar problem as soon as the turbo would move air it would blow the coupling off then when i let of it would slide back on.clean the throttle body and the coupling then make sure its really tight.if thats it replace all the couplings and get the t-lock clamps
 
mine has blown the hoses off between the turbo and the throttle body and had the same symptoms also.checkem and shakem with your hand to make sure they just dont look like they are on.
 
jurassic five 7 said:
I'd suspect the MAF first off.

When idling, hit the MAF with a screw driver, if it stumbles then you'll gonna need a new one and what you mentioned sounds like thats the problem.

Adam
Click to expand...

You called it...looks like the MAF is the problem. It did exactly that. What and where do you recommend for replacement? It doesn't look like it would be too complicated to change out. Any problems installing a new one, or things to watch out for?
 
lynchburgsam said:
You called it...looks like the MAF is the problem. It did exactly that. What and where do you recommend for replacement? It doesn't look like it would be too complicated to change out. Any problems installing a new one, or things to watch out for?
Click to expand...
The 3 leads/pins on the MAF where the harness connector hooks up- If you were to crack the MAF open, you would see these hair thin wires which are resistance welded to the lead end and then to the circuit board on the other end. These wires eventually break at the weld point after 20 years of vibrating. I know this because I cracked mine open, spent like 2 hours getting all the potting slime out and tried to fix it. The leads/wires wouldnt wick any solder and thats when I realized its a steel wire thats welded at each end. Anyway, I got a remanufactured one at the autozone hub store for 45 bucks. Works great and my car ran better than it ever had after replacing it.
 
lynchburgsam said:
You called it...looks like the MAF is the problem. It did exactly that. What and where do you recommend for replacement? It doesn't look like it would be too complicated to change out. Any problems installing a new one, or things to watch out for?
Click to expand...

Well there are two options you have avaible.

1. Get a MAF from an LT1 or LS1 car. You will need a MAF Translator to run this. You can both of these straight from Mike Licht, the owner of Full Throttle Speed
If you go this route you will NOT have to worry about the MAF to go out anytime soon at all, if not ever!


2. Go to Oreillys, Napa, Autozone and get a remanufactured MAF from them, BUT You are taking the risk of getting another dud and having to give it back and get an other and test it. Some people have had horrible luck with getting the remanufactured MAFs from these stores because the manufacture who 'fixed' them did a bad job, IE they would read only like 215 at WOT when it should read 255 grams.


So you can take which ever route you want. You can take the risky route or take the secure route and the more common route when we get bad MAFs.

Adam
 
Thanks Adam. I'd say I'm leaning towards the LS1 w/ translator, but that's pretty expensive. Anyone else done this swap with either? and was it quick and easy? or have any other recommendations?

jurassic five 7 said:
Well there are two options you have avaible.

1. Get a MAF from an LT1 or LS1 car. You will need a MAF Translator to run this. You can both of these straight from Mike Licht, the owner of Full Throttle Speed
If you go this route you will NOT have to worry about the MAF to go out anytime soon at all, if not ever!


2. Go to Oreillys, Napa, Autozone and get a remanufactured MAF from them, BUT You are taking the risk of getting another dud and having to give it back and get an other and test it. Some people have had horrible luck with getting the remanufactured MAFs from these stores because the manufacture who 'fixed' them did a bad job, IE they would read only like 215 at WOT when it should read 255 grams.


So you can take which ever route you want. You can take the risky route or take the secure route and the more common route when we get bad MAFs.

Adam
Click to expand...
 
There has been MANY! When you get the parts from Mike Licht, you will get instructions with it.

You can not just get the ls1 or lt1 MAF and plug N play in the new maf without the MAF Translator. I'm not sure what you all have to do put the translator in but its very simple.

Give Full Throttle Speed a call, talk to Mike Licht and he'll answer all your questions!

P.S. If you dont have a Scanmaster 2.1 already, then you HAVE to buy one from Mike Licht! If you dont run one of our cars without it, you'll be clueless when something like this happens again!


Call Mike and start wrenchin! :cool:

Adam
 
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