new Comp Cams?

Just under $300 John. Talk to Bill about one...he's the absolute best person I've ever dealt with for support.

Nick...I tried to move the cam a little last night but didn't want to put too much pressure on the drain holes by prying. I can't get to it tonight so tomorrow (hopefully) I'll remove the pushrods and lifters to take the pressure off the cam and see how much movement I have.

When your friend had the problem was he using an aftermarket front cover or stock?
 
I am the friend Nick is talking about, Lets start things out with the fact that no one at comp knew what spring to run with this cam. I called 4 different times and was told 4 different spring pres. Then after calling Dutt and getting the right spring I put it in. It was really loud on start up. I went from 8.150 to 8.200 to 8.250 push rods no change at all. after pulling the intake I could see where the #2 lifter body is riding on the #1 lobe and every other lobe for that matter. I called comp 3 times and asked if I needed anything speacial to use this cam, each time I was told NO!!, only roller lifters and the right pushrod. IMHO It's time for Tim Cole at comp to start returning phone calls and make things right!!!!!

Keep in mind that this is after a 218-218 comp FT went flat in 2500miles. :mad: WTF are these guys doing.:mad:
 
Well after the first econo DISASTER! i thought it would never be brought back to life.
Especially after no parties stepped up for the credit,
I see you guys are still playing with comp cams, i tried on many occasions to talk to someone in the know, to no avail.
so i gave up.
you'll never ever ever see me waste any more money on anything called budget or econo ever ever!!!!

One thing with these stupid cars you cant cut corners. i learned the hard way..

Good luck
sounds like your gonna need it.......
 
Chris,

Mine is not caused by bad casting. On each side of each lobe from the outside edge on both sides there is a line from the lifter body 1/8th in on every lobe. All the noise I was hearing was the wrong lifter being picked up then slipping off and slamming down on the back of the lobe.:mad: I found this after 3 days.:mad:
 
comp#63-000-8

214-212 .508 .503

The one in my sig I thought was a 214 but turned out to be a 218 after I took it out after it went flat in 2500 miles,, it was comps also.
 
I checked the fore and aft play on the cam with the pushrods loosened up. Nada. This cam ain't gonna move enough for the adjacent lobe to lift the wrong lifter, whether on the roller or on the body. I've turned the engine over by hand many times...watching each lobe and each lifter as best I can looking through the drain holes in the valley. Nothing is touching. And if the cam can't come forward then nothing should touch.

I put the rest of the parts and pieces on and the engine is ready to go in. Then we'll see. But it may take a while since I'm putting my stage engine back in this week.

Clean86....have you removed the cam yet? Do you have your old ft one to compare the placement of the lobes on both?

BTW...I also have the 214 and I used an aftermarket front cover.
 
Why risk it

Why risk destroying your motor over a budget roller cam. Cranks are expensive and hard to find, when the metal shavings go through your motor, it destroys everthing, turbo and all. A good billet roller is pricey but not as pricey as a new rebuilt block! I went billet to save money in the long run and am glad i did. Just had to work some overtime and am alot happier.
 
This cam is not called the "budget" "econo" or whatever... This is an entirely new design using a core made from the same material as Ford and GM use in their factory "roller" engines which last hundreds of thousands of miles,therefore when installed properly,it will not destroy your engine.
Reading some of the comments above is exactly why I really didnt want to post ANY info at all on this cam. A billet roller is not necessary with hydraulic lifters. The reason the "budget" roller was wiping is because it was made from the same material as a hydraulic flat tappet, THE NEW CAM IS NOT!!!!
Jeromy, what brand lifters are you using?
 
I have one of these cams from PTE in my car now and it seems to be working fine. It doesn't make near the amount of noise my other cam did,granted it's only been a week since i started it but i think it will be ok.
 
Lifters are comp 853's I believe. I agree with you about the material the came is made from. Putting the cam in the same "class"as the last one is wrong. It will work and last in our cars ,just not with the cam button I am using.
 
Originally posted by EightSecV6
This cam is not called the "budget" "econo" or whatever......
Reading some of the comments above is exactly why I really didnt want to post ANY info at all on this cam. A billet roller is not necessary with hydraulic lifters. The reason the "budget" roller was wiping is because it was made from the same material as a hydraulic flat tappet, THE NEW CAM IS NOT!!!!
Jeromy, what brand lifters are you using?

Well I am glad you did post. Unfortunately many people put up information because they "think is is right" or "they heard", and not what is known from personal experience or verified facts. We do need and want to know actual experiences, good or bad, so we can learn. If someone has an opinion, it should be stated as such.

You certainly know the story on this cam and I talked with Tim about it a year and a half ago during the design. Could be something in Jeromy's set up that the tolerance build-up allowed this to happen?

He is using Sealed Power lifters which have the exact same body as the standard Comp roller lifter. We plan to install a solid nylon button from PTE to correct this situation according to Comp.

Chris, I compared this cam to a Comp billet and the major difference is ductle has wider lobes like I said prevoiusly. With a casting there is also a possibility of core shift tolerances not a factor in billet cams?

As Jeromy stated, a major irritation has been the difficulty to obtain tech info from Comp on this situation.
 
Got new ATR catalog last week, and was browing their cams. They list two different cam buttons. HP931 is a "needle bearing cam button" for $9.95, and HP951A is a "needle bearing cam button - roller cam only" for $24.90. They show one unlabeled picture but it doesn't look like I remember a stock button looking, so maybe it's the roller version. Anyway, what's the difference? Does the roller version have a stronger spring, and if so, would it be good to use with the Comp cams?

The big ATR roller cam is 214-210, with .515 intake lift and .504 exhaust lift with stock 1.55 rockers. Overlap is 56 deg and lobe separation is 109 deg. I can't find a comp#63-000-8 214-212 .508 .503 in the catalog but for those of you who have it, how do the overlap and separation compare to the ATR? Thanks.
 
I went to find my cam card.....last time I saw it I was degreeing the cam. It's nowhere to be found so obviously it's inside the engine.

Carl....I'll let you know the specs when I change my oil for the first time. :D
 
Originally posted by ChrisCairns
I went to find my cam card.....last time I saw it I was degreeing the cam. It's nowhere to be found so obviously it's inside the engine.

Carl....I'll let you know the specs when I change my oil for the first time. :D

LOL So that's how you keep oil from being sucked into your pcv valve! Now that the secret's out, everyone else is going to start copying you.
 
I hope not. While looking for the cam card I found the cut down valley pan that I forgot to put in....lol. Or I put the cam card IN PLACE of the valley pan and your suggestion is closer to the mark than you thought.

I wish someone would make it illegal for me to work on engines.

:rolleyes:
 
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