New coil????

84wh1

pimp romeo
Joined
May 31, 2001
Hey guys,

. Ive got a question concerning my coil. I haven't driven my car yet this year but last summer when it was on the road, I had a problem in which the car stalled. After turning over for a few seconds, the car back fired rather loudly. When i posted here about the problem, the general response was that I should change the coil, plugs and wires. Now I was gonna buy the new parts this weekend but i started thinking. Since I've swapped out the ECM to an 87 year, should I purchase the coil for an 87 TR? Not too sure if there's even a difference but I figured i would ask just so i dont waste any money. Appreciate any help. Thanks

-Marc
 
Hey Marc, how's things going? You should get a hold of Craig, he has a coil tester. I've had to replace a few coils, but I have never encountered the car stalling. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Is the fuel pressure good when it stalls?
 
Forzfed eh. If Im right, I think this is nick. Anyways, things are good on my end here. Haven't driven the car yet this year. But no, I don't have a fuel pressure gauge. Would low fuel pressure cause a stall? It use to do it often but that was my alternator that crapped out. I've since changed it, but last year the car stalled when I pulled into a parking lot and would fire up again until about 45 seconds later. When it did, it back fired. What type of fuel pressure gauge do you recommend and where should i get it? I've been out of the whole car scene for far too long so my knowledge of repairs and problems isn't very good
 
Yeah Marc, that's me. I had a similar problem on my '85 T-Type, it would stall, let it cool off and it would start up. I changed the pump and sawed the old one in half, the windings on my fuel pump were fried. So, I wouldn't go buying parts you don't need just yet. Like I said, Craig can test your coil for you.
 
If you do end up needing a coil, youre gonna have to adapt it to the 86-87 coil either way becasue they discontinued the hot air years ago unless you buy a use one.
 
Sorry about the delay in the reply. But yeah Nick, my car seems to be doing what your old 85 did. The car will run for a little while, then stall. When I try to start it again, it wont, unless I let it sit for about 30 minutes or so. What do you recommend? New pump? If so, what should I get? The pump in the car is from Poston and its probably 9-10 years old now. It doesnt have a whole lot of mileage on it, but the car did sit for a while without being driven.
 
First see if it not starting because of no spark or no fuel. Then report back and proceed from that point.
 
First see if it not starting because of no spark or no fuel. Then report back and proceed from that point.

Exactly.

Marc, do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If not, even get a cheap one to put on the end of the fuel rail. Can you hear the pump when the key is on? Could be a bad fuel pump relay as well. Then start checking to see if you have spark.
 
Hey Nick. I dont have a fuel pressure guage. Does any guage work? Should I get a specific type? And also, I do hear my pump when i turn the key. How do I know if the fuel pump relay is bad? Thx
 
Do you still have the idiot oil light sender hooked up? If so, usually when you crank it and get over can't recall the exact number, but I think it is around 8psi, it should bypass the relay and fire up. If it isn't being used anymore than you won't have any power leaving the relay to the pump. I don't have mine hooked up because of my oil pressure gauge. Had my car die at the track last year, but I could see there was no fuel pressure. So, I took a wire and ran power to the fuel pump test connector and drove it home.
 
Any gauge you can adapt to the fuel rail will work as long as it has a pressure limit equal to or higher than 80-100PSI. If your relay was bad you would not hear the fuel pump turn on.

,Dan
 
Hey Nick and others, I bought a fuel pressure gauge and tied it to the rail. The fuel pressure was set at only 30lbs! I turned up to around 45 lbs and i'll take it for a drive to see how it does. Could the low pressure have been the cause of my problem?
 
Well, I went outside to start the car and take it for a ride after writing the last post, and now the car wont start! I guess the low pressure wasnt the reason for the problem. Is there any other fuel checks that should be done? If so, how do i do them?
 
Also, when the car doesnt start after cranking a few times and the ignition key remains in the "on position", the "Volts" idiot light is on. Not sure if thats a problem or not? The Volts light IS off when the car starts and is able to run. The only problem is that the car likes to shut off on its own and when it does, it wont start up again until approximately 30 minutes later.

One more question here too. My hotwire kit has never worked. Pretty sure I purchased a defective unit. When i plus the fittings from the kit into the factory plugs at the fuel tank, the car wont start.....ever. When the hotwire kit is plugged in, and you turn the ignition key "on", you cant hear the pump either. When I unplug it and plug in the factory plugs, you can hear the pump prime up when the key is on. I think its a bad kit. Any thoughts on this?
 
Well, I went outside to start the car and take it for a ride after writing the last post, and now the car wont start! I guess the low pressure wasnt the reason for the problem. Is there any other fuel checks that should be done? If so, how do i do them?

Was there fuel pressure at the rail when you tried to start it? The volt light usually does that. Check for spark, maybe your module is going bad.
 
yeah there was fuel pressure at the rail. when i connected the gauge and turned the key "on", it read about 20 lbs i think. when i started the car, it went to 30 lbs. i then left it attached and adjusted the pressure to about 45 lbs. i then shut it off and when it fired back up, the fuel pressure was still set to 45 lbs.

As for the module and spark, what am i checking for and where am i checking for spark? thx
 
Well, I swapped out the fuel filter and hopefully im not speaking too soon here, but it looks like that might have been my problem. When I pulled out the old one, it had tons of rusty looking fuel/ gunk coming out of it. After installing the new filter, the car ran until I shut it off. And then it started up again so I drove it around the block and when I pulled it into the garage, it didnt stall. I tried starting after that, and it still fired up! It sounds like all may be good!
 
Very well could be Marc, especially if the car was parked and you didn't have stabilizer in it or it sat for a very long time.
 
Actually I spoke too soon. The car is doing the same thing still.

what the coolant temp at when it dies....im having issue with mine..sounds like crap when it fires...warms up sounds pretty good and idles well...once it hits 180 degrees on the scanner poof stalls...
 
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