Need some help figuring out some problems...

[t-typex1]

I have a few issues I cant seem to figure out how to resolve. Im going to start from the beginning so I don't leave anything out.
I started with a stock long block LC2 with a PT6776S, and was able to get it to 11.91@113 before deciding to build a new motor.
I had my motor built by Aggressive(Bruce), finally got it back around the end of 2007. I drove it for the 500 break in miles and the car ran great. I then took it back to have it tuned after the break in period. I picked it up from Aggressive on a trailer, went straight to Milan, and it had knock at the 1/8th. I took it back to Aggressive to sort the issue immediately. Aggressive could not fix the issue, and my wife had some health issues that caused me to put my car on the back burner for a while. At this point it was driveable, but I never got into it because I knew there was an issue and I didn't want to hurt it. I rove it to a few shows during the summers, adding up to about 500-1000 miles total since 2007.
Fast forward to this past fall. I was checking out the car, and I discovered gas in the oil.
I changed the oil and filter, and did not want to attempt to start the car until sorting out what caused this. I sent my injectors (new 60lb. at new engine install) to turbotweak to have them checked for problems(came back with a clean bill of health), bought and installed a new Accufab FPR, and put another computer in the car in case there was a driver problem in here.
At this point I started the car, it ran fine. Everything seemed normal. I took it for a ride. It ran good and I put about 4 or 5 miles on it. I then laid into the throttle from a light, and when the boost started to come in (@0 psi) it started to sputter and not want to go. Normal easy driving is fine, but would not do any boost.
I have since changed:
Coil Pack
Spark Plugs (AC 24's gapped at 35)
Injector harness(to rule out a short in harness)
It still drives fine casual but will sputter under any boost.
To top it off, I checked the oil again today and it smells like gas.

Any advice as to what is going on or causing this?
Im in need of some help. I really want my car running properly.
Thanks for reading,
Tony

 

[t-typex1]

No advice or knowledge on this?
I guess its not just me thats stumped....

 

[jhanson1750]

What chip is in the car? It sounds like its over fueling.

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[t-typex1]

With whats posted, here is my bolt on list
PT6776S
Eastern FM
85 mm MAF
Translator
212/218 Comp
Champion Irons
T&D 1.65's
Reds double pumper
Motron 60's
TurboTweak 5.7
AlkyControl (2 nozzle)
If it is over fueling, how do I correct it other than what I have already done mentioned above?

 

[tonka]

Since you don't mention them at all, I assume you do not have a Scanmaster to monitor what the engine is doing or a Powerlogger to make some logs for members here to look at? Without equipment like this, your pretty much in the dark right now. Is the chip correct for the injectors you're running? Translator set up correct for the MAF you are running? Is the second pump on the double pumper you listed maybe coming on too soon?

 

[t-typex1]

I have a Scanmaster on the car and have a powerlogger still new in the box I need to install. I bought it shortly after the build, but with the car and personal issues, never got around to installing it.
I also have an AEM wideband on the car bought at the time of build, but all of that is new to me.
I guess it would be beneficial to try to install it soon so it can help with the troubleshooting

 

[TTipe]

Fuel regulator with leaking membrane or vacuum leak??

 

[t-typex1]

One thing I did notice is the BL is 138-140 at idle. Isnt this supposed to be around 128?

 

[TurboTGuy]

Does it have a programmable chip in it?

Alky?

 

[jasjamz]

The Powerlogger and wideband would solve this in less than a day. Make sure you connect the map sensor too. That will show us boost. Get that stuff and log trying to spool on the foot brake. Also double check the fuel pressure with a non rail mounted gauge

 

[Bigjsn250]

I picked it up from Aggressive on a trailer, went straight to Milan, and it had knock at the 1/8th. Did it make boost?, how did it run before the knock?, where did the knock happen in the run?
Man I can think of a ton of questions for Aggressive about the build.

I took it back to Aggressive to sort the issue immediately. Aggressive could not fix the issue
What did aggressive say they did, and when you say could not fix the issue, does that mean it still had knock under boost?
Everything seemed normal. I took it for a ride. It ran good and I put about 4 or 5 miles on it. I then laid into the throttle from a light, and when the boost started to come in (@0 psi) it started to sputter and not want to go. Normal easy driving is fine, but would not do any boost.
I have since changed:
Coil Pack
Spark Plugs (AC 24's gapped at 35)
Injector harness(to rule out a short in harness)
It still drives fine casual but will sputter under any boost.
To top it off, I checked the oil again today and it smells like gas.
Tony

My guess would be they added to much fuel to the tune. Also possible the rings didn't seal completely. Have you tried brake boosting? A FP gauge and wideband would be a big help here. Just one other comment from a guy who's made this mistake. Don't throw parts at problems, especially in bunches. It can lead you in the wrong direction.

Personally, I would do a compression check first, it's not hard and can rule out some of the bigger problems. Check the timing also.

I feel for ya Tony, your car was quick before the build, to end up with these problems really sucks.

 

[TurboTGuy]

My guess would be they added to much fuel to the tune. Also possible the rings didn't seal completely. Have you tried brake boosting? A FP gauge and wideband would be a big help here. Just one other comment from a guy who's made this mistake. Don't throw parts at problems, especially in bunches. It can lead you in the wrong direction.

Personally, I would do a compression check first, it's not hard and can rule out some of the bigger problems. Check the timing also.

I feel for ya Tony, your car was quick before the build, to end up with these problems really sucks.

First, just unplug the computer and let it reset itself to the chips default parameters and go from there.

 

[Bigjsn250]

That's a good idea TTguy. I re-read the thread and see he has a scanmaster and the 5.7TT chip. Just go to the TT website, download the 5.7 instructions and start taking fuel out.

 

[TurboTGuy]

"At this point I started the car, it ran fine. Everything seemed normal. I took it for a ride. It ran good and I put about 4 or 5 miles on it. I then laid into the throttle from a light, and when the boost started to come in (@0 psi) it started to sputter and not want to go. Normal easy driving is fine, but would not do any boost."

You had the A/C turned off when trying this, yes? It may sound silly, but if the A/C is on it has a profoundly negative effect on what my car does when boost starts to come in. It will do many of the same things you describe.

 

[krom]

What are AC24 plugs? What is your FP set at? At your boost level try autolite 23's with a max gap of 32

 

[t-typex1]

I havent been on here for a little bit, I will try to answer some of the new questions.
I have the computer out, going to try to install the power logger soon.
--When I first got knock at the track, it was at the 1/8
--Bruce(Aggressive) could not solve the problem
--AC24's= AutoLite 24
--I have had the computer disconnected a few times now. Had the battery out of the car for 6 months too.
-- A/C is always off. I have functional A/C, but very rarely use it.
--I believe a compression test was done by Bruce. I should probably do this personally to remove any doubt.

I hope to get the Power Logger up and running soon.
The only thing that seems off on the scanmaster is the BLM's at around 136