Need new speakers

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ok, I was ok with this current set up, because I actually don't mind 80's style sounds. But now, I got spoiled with this nice 2013 Chrysler 200s, and I want something close in my Buick. I have some medium quality speakers in my car now, like I think Boston Acoustic or some shit like that, with a bottom of the line Kenwood CD player from about 2008 or so. I want the best, fullest sounding speakers I can fit into the standard factory locations. Any suggestions? I don't want any amps or bass boxes-just a nice set of speakers and a new radio.
I see there's some audiophiles in here, that are in neck deep into the physics of audio, so I think I will be able to get some good advice.
Ok, my eyes are open. Fire away.

 

[TurboHungry]

Car audio is as opinion based as food so it's almost like asking someone what you should eat. The best thing for you to do is set your budget then start shopping within that budget by going to car audio shops and listening to what suits you best. I hope you have concert sound door panels if you want to compare with your new Chrysler.


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[Turbo6Smackdown]

I do not sadly The budget for the radio and speakers is about 500. I know that's not a lot but it should get me into something decent I hope.

 

[Heisenberg]

TTA Owner probably has a set of ConcertSound door grills.
I'd have to look, but I do think you could mod your stock lowers to accommodate the CS grill. (?)
I also think the 1988 era Park Avenues or similar use a very similar lower CS type grill.
I've spotted them at the boneyard and thought they looked promising.
Cheapest way to go.
Vs. buying new CS lowers - or GBody type w/ 5-1/4"s
I know SGrim - Shane just showed some new lowers he is fabbing.
He's into audio.
Maybe he will chime.
I've also seen (the) tweeters on the upper in front of the armrests. (That slanted part) - But I ain't cutting any upper door panels thanks.

BuickMike did a stereo install on that low budget build - check out his post.

Then ya got the whole 4x10 vs 6x9 debate in back.

500 bucks?
Like in the movie "Jaws"
We're gonna need a bigger boat wallet
But I'm sure you can scrounge a little and get in on that budget if you maybe look for a junkyard Monsoon audio head unit, maybe some Bose Golds out of a 80's early 90's GM, Some CS lowers, etc etc.
I hate paying retail for this kind of stuff.
And my bank account hates it.
Just some ideas.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Well, I'm not sure I want to yank my lower door panels off. And I'd have no luck with something from a junk yard; no warranty.

 

[VaderGN]

Take it in baby steps if money is an issue right now. Start with the radio then down the road or when you can upgrade the speakers.

Mine's about 90 percent done already, just trying to justify if I should or just leave it alone the door speakers so all components match. More for looks at this point.


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[Turbo6Smackdown]

Money's not really an issue. It's just that 500 bucks is all I value for sounds systems lol.

 

[TurboHungry]

Funny that Heisenberg mentions those CS panels from a Park Avenue because that is what I will be using. I grabbed two sets the other from a Lesabre to see which I liked best. It requires trimming the panel to fit under the lip of the door panel like the factory would. Also if you don't have factory CS there is not a hole for the speaker, don't know if you are big on cutting on your door. Another option is kick panel speakers. They make some
http://www.amazon.com/Q-LOGIC-QL-K1...=UTF8&qid=1378570543&sr=1-2&keywords=Ql-k1011
But if you have some fabrication skills you can do up your own. Of course I recommend grabbing a set from a yard to try it out. If you carpet them then it will hide imperfections. I did this setup on my truck which gave me 6.5 inch in the kick panels and 4x6 in the dash with no rears and it sounds better than any other combo I have had. So if you focused solely on front staging you would find the rears to be useless.

If you wanted to stick to replacements only I personally have 4 inch in the dash and 6x9s in the rear. They sell an adaptor for 4x10 to 6x9 and I recommend that just because only a couple companies make 4x10s anymore so your options grow substantially. Another important thing is to match the speakers to your power. A set of better speakers (usually more expensive) might not get enough power off of a head unit to actually make them sound really good.

BTW Pick n Pull does have 30 day warranty on anything you buy and you can purchase year warranties as add on


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[Turbo6Smackdown]

That adapter to 6x9's sounds good. Where do I get one of these sets at?

 

[Heisenberg]

Funny that Heisenberg mentions those CS panels from a Park Avenue because that is what I will be using. I grabbed two sets the other from a Lesabre to see which I liked best. It requires trimming the panel to fit under the lip of the door panel like the factory would. Also if you don't have factory CS there is not a hole for the speaker, don't know if you are big on cutting on your door. Another option is kick panel speakers. They make some
http://www.amazon.com/Q-LOGIC-QL-K1...=UTF8&qid=1378570543&sr=1-2&keywords=Ql-k1011
But if you have some fabrication skills you can do up your own. Of course I recommend grabbing a set from a yard to try it out. If you carpet them then it will hide imperfections. I did this setup on my truck which gave me 6.5 inch in the kick panels and 4x6 in the dash with no rears and it sounds better than any other combo I have had. So if you focused solely on front staging you would find the rears to be useless.

If you wanted to stick to replacements only I personally have 4 inch in the dash and 6x9s in the rear. They sell an adaptor for 4x10 to 6x9 and I recommend that just because only a couple companies make 4x10s anymore so your options grow substantially. Another important thing is to match the speakers to your power. A set of better speakers (usually more expensive) might not get enough power off of a head unit to actually make them sound really good.

BTW Pick n Pull does have 30 day warranty on anything you buy and you can purchase year warranties as add on


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

No hole in the door for CS?
Hmmm...you really have me thinking now.
Could that be true?
Two different doors - one for CS - one for Non-CS?
Doesn't sound like the 80's GM Cookbook car making process
But - Wow- I need to go look.

Even if it is true - which I don't doubt you - cutting the hole is no big deal.
I'm just kicking myself for scrapping those rusted doors that had the CS option.
I coulda used that for a template.
Because it will be a hole + 4 mounting holes for the speakers. (Don't forget the rubber speaker condom that goes behind the speaker too!)
Damn - if that's true - I knew I should held onto those doors. My buddy has a couple of rollers though with CS doors so I can go make a template if need be.

 

[Heisenberg]

Funny that Heisenberg mentions those CS panels from a Park Avenue because that is what I will be using. I grabbed two sets the other from a Lesabre to see which I liked best. It requires trimming the panel to fit under the lip of the door panel like the factory would. Also if you don't have factory CS there is not a hole for the speaker, don't know if you are big on cutting on your door. Another option is kick panel speakers. They make some
http://www.amazon.com/Q-LOGIC-QL-K1...=UTF8&qid=1378570543&sr=1-2&keywords=Ql-k1011
But if you have some fabrication skills you can do up your own. Of course I recommend grabbing a set from a yard to try it out. If you carpet them then it will hide imperfections. I did this setup on my truck which gave me 6.5 inch in the kick panels and 4x6 in the dash with no rears and it sounds better than any other combo I have had. So if you focused solely on front staging you would find the rears to be useless.

If you wanted to stick to replacements only I personally have 4 inch in the dash and 6x9s in the rear. They sell an adaptor for 4x10 to 6x9 and I recommend that just because only a couple companies make 4x10s anymore so your options grow substantially. Another important thing is to match the speakers to your power. A set of better speakers (usually more expensive) might not get enough power off of a head unit to actually make them sound really good.

BTW Pick n Pull does have 30 day warranty on anything you buy and you can purchase year warranties as add on


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Also - don't forget about the whole 4 ohm Stock vs 8 ohm aftermarket - wiring setup.

You can also look at modifying a rear sail panel for a small speaker.
Sail panel inserts are a dime a dozen.
I don't like the non-stock look though.

True on those 80's era Buick lower covers. They're all over the boneyard. Seems there are three Buicks for every other GM in the yard.

And if you grab (cut) the Monsoon harness, take it home and hook er up to test.
They sound pretty darned good, and if they work right away - they'll probably last more than long enough.

That whole Single DIN Aftermarket head unit with adaptor just doesn't cut it for me.
I have seen a couple though - that with just the right adaptor plate - look OK.

Single DIN Flip outs - meh - blocking the A/C. Looks semi hokey.

 

[VaderGN]

Well if money is not an issue then.

Remember the old expression, you get what you pay for.


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[TurboHungry]

Adapters

http://www.soundsgreatusa.com/servlet/the-146/82-dsh-4000-Metra-GM-Speaker/Detail

http://www.mikesmontes.com/Monte-Carlo-6x9-Speaker-Adapters-Set-of-2_p_21.html

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...-keywords=SPEAKER+ADAPTER+4X10+-+6X9+ADAPTER+

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-4-x-10-to-6-x-9-Speaker-Adapter/10756156

http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=1770

A few options to choose from
The 6x9s in mine are not using adapters. I found these black box speaker holders out of a riviera that matched our back dash almost perfect at a salvage yard. Only had to add a small 90 on one side and to simulate the original holder on the Riv and on screw on the other side to hold it on. Again if you are not fabrication handy I wouldn't attempt this, here is what mine looks like would look factory if it wasn't for the chrome crossovers.

On this second one you can see how well it forms to our rear deck


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[Turbo6Smackdown]

Very nice. Though I grew up in a tool room (literally) and can pretty much make anything, I don't have the money or resources to do that now. I'll just buy an adapter and drive on Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

 

[John Larkin]

I only spent about $500 on mine, maybe less. I have stock head unit, AudioControl LC2 lineout converter, pair of Polk Audio DB 6.5" and 3.5" coaxials upfront, a used Cadence 4-channel amp with two bridged for a 8" cheapo MCM Electronics housebrand sub and cables from knukonceptz.com. It cannot be heard outside the car but inside you can crank it up and it rocks the house. I did alot of research and quite a bit of my own fabrication but it came out great and is barely visible. Had I made my door pods a little differently you would not know that I am not stock. And my pods hang on the outside of my panel so anyone with or without cut doors can do this.

 

[Heisenberg]

Adapters

http://www.soundsgreatusa.com/servlet/the-146/82-dsh-4000-Metra-GM-Speaker/Detail

http://www.mikesmontes.com/Monte-Carlo-6x9-Speaker-Adapters-Set-of-2_p_21.html

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=electronics&field-keywords=SPEAKER ADAPTER 4X10 - 6X9 ADAPTER

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-4-x-10-to-6-x-9-Speaker-Adapter/10756156

http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=1770

A few options to choose from
The 6x9s in mine are not using adapters. I found these black box speaker holders out of a riviera that matched our back dash almost perfect at a salvage yard. Only had to add a small 90 on one side and to simulate the original holder on the Riv and on screw on the other side to hold it on. Again if you are not fabrication handy I wouldn't attempt this, here is what mine looks like would look factory if it wasn't for the chrome crossovers.
View attachment 199686
View attachment 199687
On this second one you can see how well it forms to our rear deck


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Great follow up info and -
Very nice Junkyard dog find if I do say so myself.
But I don't come across Riv's too often.
What year if I may ask?

And I think it does look "factory"

 

[Heisenberg]

And following up on our recent topic of "Junkyard" vs. Retail.

Today, I make my Pull-A-Part pilgrimage, - I look at a Buick, and what do I find in the front seat, all nice and removed, waiting on me?
A Monsoon head unit.
Not like alot of them - all scratched up and beaten, missing the knobs.
Perfect!
And already removed for me too!
Harness?
Yep - still there!
My large electrical cutter - and it's mine.

And - in the rear deck?

One 6 x 9" speaker already removed.
A brand new pair of leatherman tool - added bonus! (poor guy)
And the second matching speaker still there, held in with 4 little bolts.
2 minutes - they're mine.

Clearly someone either ran out of time, money, or changed their mind.
Their loss - my gain!
You don't often find these clean setups lasting for more than a day at the boneyard.

Cost?
12 bucks for the Monsoon head unit.
Speakers? - 5 bucks FOR BOTH!.
That's 17 bucks for a Monsoon head unit, and 2 - 6x9 speakers.


C'mon.
Even without a warranty - can you beat this sort of stuff?
That's 2 or 3 hundred dollars worth of gear - easy.

 

[Heisenberg]

Funny that Heisenberg mentions those CS panels from a Park Avenue because that is what I will be using. I grabbed two sets the other from a Lesabre to see which I liked best. It requires trimming the panel to fit under the lip of the door panel like the factory would. Also if you don't have factory CS there is not a hole for the speaker, don't know if you are big on cutting on your door. Another option is kick panel speakers. They make some
http://www.amazon.com/Q-LOGIC-QL-K1...=UTF8&qid=1378570543&sr=1-2&keywords=Ql-k1011
But if you have some fabrication skills you can do up your own. Of course I recommend grabbing a set from a yard to try it out. If you carpet them then it will hide imperfections. I did this setup on my truck which gave me 6.5 inch in the kick panels and 4x6 in the dash with no rears and it sounds better than any other combo I have had. So if you focused solely on front staging you would find the rears to be useless.

If you wanted to stick to replacements only I personally have 4 inch in the dash and 6x9s in the rear. They sell an adaptor for 4x10 to 6x9 and I recommend that just because only a couple companies make 4x10s anymore so your options grow substantially. Another important thing is to match the speakers to your power. A set of better speakers (usually more expensive) might not get enough power off of a head unit to actually make them sound really good.

BTW Pick n Pull does have 30 day warranty on anything you buy and you can purchase year warranties as add on


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Those Q-logics are funky I think.
Also, not that it matters a whole helluva lot, but I don't think the e-brake works on the driver side with them installed.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

What size are our front speakers?

Edit: They're 3.5" rounds, right?

 

[TurboHungry]

That monsoon looks like the one out of the W body Regals. May I ask the importance since that would make it a double din and won't fit in our G Body? Do you use those in something else? Even better if you have a trick way of fitting a double din in our cars. I've looked into that but it requires some cutting of metal in the dash and who knows if I can even make it look good.

Factory is 3.5 inch, just wanted to let you know 4s can be fit in too. Forgot to mention anything with a tweeter will need to be mounted from underneath so your dash cap will fit back on. Think someone did a write up on that.


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