Need help with Olds Alero - ignition switch stuck in lock position

BLACK6PACK

1 sec reaction King
Joined
May 24, 2001
I want to thank buick mike for helping with my last plea for help! Here is another for my buick brethren. Ok guys, been all over the net. This happened to my girlfriend's daughter's car. It seems these switches are notorious for failing, but mainly for the "theft lock" failing. Also the key's and tumblers just wear out. Oh, its a 2003. To switch out the ignition cylinder the key has to be switched to the acc position to remove it. The thing that has me thinking that it may not be the ign switch causing the key to stay in the locked position, is that the daughter mentioned that the car was in Drive when she came out to start it, and it wouldn't start. She then put it in park and the then would not turn from the off position. I tried wiggling the wheel, the shifter, shifter linkage under the hood, rocking the car back and forth to get it to go all the way into park, but nothing seems to work. Spoke to dealership, they were no help. The guy said they would have to diagnose it, but that it may not be the ign, but something to do with shifter linkage. Any ideas? Car has never had problems like this until she turned it off in drive. Obviously the ign cylinder is going bad cuz she was able to pull the keys out without it being in park
 
another odd thing is, the way the car sits now (in park) the steering wheel will turn lock to lock. the steering wheel will not lock. it has a remote start and will start and run, but still cant turn the key and put the car in gear.
 
I knew someone who had an older one that had an issue of all the dash lights staying on. eng, brake, you name it.

after months of trying to solve it and changing sensors and such, the fix was a new key.

something about those keys cause those cars to wreak havoc when they wear out or go bad somehow.

I know it's off topic but I figured i'd comment and make it easier for someone that ever runs in to this issue.

good luck

D
 
There should be a manual overide for the shift interlock. Not sure of where exactly but if it is floor shift, should not be hard to see on the console. Look in manual, may be in there.
 
I switched out a new ignition cylinder, had to drill out the retaining pin. Went through the whole theftlock relearn process for the new ignition, got rid of the security light, but still won't start with the keys. :mad:
 
This one has me stumped. If the new ignition did not fix it, then it could be the circuit that only allows you to start the car in park or neutral. Did you get under the car and follow the linkage to see if anything is bent or broken? I guess you can also put a voltmeter to the "start" lead on the starter and see if any voltage gets to the starter when you try to crank it. Maybe the starter solenoid went out at the exact same time? I know its a long shot but you never know.
 
It starts fine with the aftermarket remote start, but not with the keys, then put keys in, turn to on and it will work fine sometimes. Other times it dies when you put your foot on the brake to put it in gear. It started with the keys a couple of times then stopped working.
 
I had a similar situation, and there was a broken wire going to the interlock solenoid from the console shifter. I believe it was a purple wire. Pull the console out and have a look.
 
Sounds like the remote start may be causing a problem. Check the wiring. The shop that put ours in butchered the wiring bad.
 
Take the shifter bezel off. Should just pry up. Push the shifter handle button in and out a few times and watch linkage. Had this problem thinking it was ignition lock cylinder. I couldn't get the key to turn back to off. The shifter was not getting all the way in park due to dirt interfering with the shifter. Cleaned everything up and lubed button mechanism. It needs to pop down in park. Maybe why you have intermittent issues like I did. Worth a try and a 15 minute job. If it's not getting all the way in park it won't start.
 
Shifter is fine. I will take a look at the purple wire. This should have been a 1 hour fix and I've spent 3 days on it now and it's still not working. Now if I start it with the remote and apply the brakes it kills the car and unlocks the doors!!! The car was running fine until the cylinder lock broke.
 
If the key sends the wrong signal to the computer, it cuts power to the injectors, and sets off the security light. Leave key on for 10 minutes, and that reprograms the computer. I do that security light goes off, but still doesn't give power to injectors unless started with the remote.
 
SOLVED!!! After a week of chasing my tail, messing with the wiring on the remote start, doing reset after reset, cutting the yellow wire while running, doing the resistor bypass, and lots of deep thought, I went back to the basics. I knew the signal was not getting to the computer. A relearn would get rid of the security light, but the keys would not let the fuel flow. It would start no problem with the remote, but as soon as I hit the brakes the engine would shut off. So, I went to the junkyard, the guy asks what I'm looking for and he told me he cant sell me the ignition from any dash mounted key setup for a gm car of that era (Malibu, grand am, grand prix, alero, etc) I told him I didn't want the cylinder, but the switch that the cylinder goes in (ignition switch). He says, ok no problem. Pulled the part in 10 minutes (I'm a master at this by now), paid the $8, drove home put the part in, bumped the starter, it fired and died. I'm excited by this because before it wouldn't even fire. Waited the 10 minutes for the relearn, and it fired right up. Made the mistake of trying the remote start (old signal) and that put it back into security mode. Retaught the remote the new signal, waited the 10 minutes again, and now it starts with the remote and keys!! The initial problem was a locked up cylinder and I guess I banged up the switch trying to get the key freed up before finally drilling it out. If anybody has any questions about the GM passlock don't hesitate to ask, I've read hundreds of posts across multiple boards and platforms, done tons of research, and now have a feeling that I have somewhat of a grasp on the whole thing. This problem is across all American cars and many imports. GM just seems to be the worst about it, has had over 100 people die from faulty ignition cylinders, and the dealerships are raping thousands of GM owners by charging anywhere from $500 to $1000 to fix this. Basically the key's or tumblers ware out, and the cylinder needs replacement. The cylinder from a dealership is $240, same one from an online parts store or amazon is about $50 (ac delco). On the alero it is a 10 minute job if you don't screw it up like I did. Pop off shifter lid, pop off bezel around radio, one screw to ignition is there, take two bolts out of the gauge surround, take 4 bolts off around gauges, pull the gauges out (no need to unplug), take 2 more bolts out on either side of cylinder, turn the whole thing over (rotate back and to the left) which exposes the pin that holds the cylinder in. Turn key to ACC, push the pin in, pull with the keys, and cylinder pops out. In my case the key was locked up in the cylinder, so I had to drill right in front of the pin to break the retaining spring which holds the pin in the switch. Reverse process, with new ignition cylinder, try to start and it will die, leave key in on position until security light goes out. Turn ignition off for 10 seconds, and then start it. Sometimes you have to do this process 3 times if the security light starts flashing again after it doesn't start. Hopefully this will help other gm owners.
 
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