Need help with BLM issue.

[BoostedEvIL]

My BLM number is 150 at idle. It does go to 128 at wot, and seem to stay betweew 128 and 140 while coasting. I have checked for vac leaks and had to replace my egr valve. Still at 150 at idle though. But still have high BLMs. I even borrowed a smoke machine and check the motor. No leaks after 15 minutes. Except out of the air filter anyway.
Any ideas.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Your getting un-metered air in somewhere.

Pull the pcv and plug the vac line. See if the bl's respond. Maybe just a bad valve.

 

[BoostedEvIL]

Your getting un-metered air in somewhere.

Pull the pcv and plug the vac line. See if the bl's respond. Maybe just a bad valve.

Do you mean block it off at the vac block?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Yep

 

[BoostedEvIL]

Well I bumped up the FP to a fat 60 psi, and BLMs dropped to 143. (I didn't reset ecm) Car idled much better, no black smoke. Didn't boost because it started to rain as soon as a pulled out of garage.
How do I diagnose a bad valve?

 

[BoostedEvIL]

Yep

I blocked off the pcv but i'm stuck in the garage for awhile. Does BLM learn when not moving?

 

[Eric Stage I]

What is your MAF Base setting in the Translator box, and what MAF are you using?

 

[BoostedEvIL]

What is your MAF Base setting in the Translator box, and what MAF are you using?

LS1 MAF,
1,2,3 are UP, (ON?)
4 is down
Everything else is set to zero.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I blocked off the pcv but i'm stuck in the garage for awhile. Does BLM learn when not moving?

As long as the ecm is in closed loop, blm's will respond.

If you block the pcv and the blm's take a drastic drop, you prolly need a new valve.

 

[BoostedEvIL]

As long as the ecm is in closed loop, blm's will respond.

If you block the pcv and the blm's take a drastic drop, you prolly need a new valve.

Ok, blocked off and running now, how do I know its in closed loop?

 

[TurboBuRick]

The dot on the scanmaster indicates open and closed loop.

Blinking dot means open a solid dot means closed.

 

[BoostedEvIL]

The dot on the scanmaster indicates open and closed loop.

Blinking dot means open a solid dot means closed.

The only time I see a dot is a wot?
I just took a spin and BLMs didn't change. I lowered the FP back to about 46 and reset the ecm too.

I will take another look at the dot too. But i'm retty sure I never see this dot.

 

[ijames]

The other common cause is an exhaust leak before the turbo which can suck in air at idle and fool the O2 sensor.

 

[TurboBuRick]

On the main screen, the dot is on the right side of the display. When you start the car it will be in open loop. Once the car warms up it should go into closed loop.

Note:
Some chips are set up for open loop idle. If that is the case, the loop will not close until the gas is slightly pressed.


Is this something that just happened?

 

[BoostedEvIL]

On the main screen, the dot is on the right side of the display. When you start the car it will be in open loop. Once the car warms up it should go into closed loop.

Note:
Some chips are set up for open loop idle. If that is the case, the loop will not close until the gas is slightly pressed.


Is this something that just happened?

On the main screen the only dot I see is the decimal for RETARD. (0.0)
The decimal blinks at idle and at very slow speeds. It goes solid during normal driving.
Is this what you mean?

Also I reset ECM lowered FP to 46-48 and went for a quick spin.
PCV is still blocked off. BLM are 147 instead of there usual 150.

 

[BoostedEvIL]

The other common cause is an exhaust leak before the turbo which can suck in air at idle and fool the O2 sensor.

How do I check for this? Smoke the exhaust?

 

[TurboBuRick]

On the main screen the only dot I see is the decimal for RETARD. (0.0)
The decimal blinks at idle and at very slow speeds. It goes solid during normal driving.
Is this what you mean?

Yep. Thats the one. Sounds like you have a open loop idle chip.

Also I reset ECM lowered FP to 46-48 and went for a quick spin.
PCV is still blocked off. BLM are 147 instead of there usual 150.

If it only dropped a couple digits then the pcv is prolly not the problem.

You either still have a vacuum leak or exhaust leak.

 

[BoostedEvIL]

Well I smoked the intake and that looked ok.
The driver side header was repaired about a month ago.
The pass side looks fine.
Can I smoke the exhaust or would that just be dumb.
How can I eliminate the valves?

 

[TurboBuRick]

When I said "valve" I meant the PCV. Sorry for the confusion.

The other thing you can try is unplug the vacuum lines of the block one at a time and block it off. The idea is to process of eliminate each one.

So.... Do one line at a time and take the car for a short ride. You will know when find the culprit. The BLM will shoot down.

Bump the base setting in the translator to 1. That will help bring blm's down too.

 

[BoostedEvIL]

When I said "valve" I meant the PCV. Sorry for the confusion.

The other thing you can try is unplug the vacuum lines of the block one at a time and block it off. The idea is to process of eliminate each one.

So.... Do one line at a time and take the car for a short ride. You will know when find the culprit. The BLM will shoot down.

Bump the base setting in the translator to 1. That will help bring blm's down too.

Oh, I was thinking engine valve.
Well I know everything on the engine is sealed up and not leaking.
I guess the break booster could be leaking internally? Don't really want to drive without that guy though.