need help! car is still dying in park or slowing down to a stop sign. New logs

[sams86gn]

I keep thinking I have found and fixed the problem and then it happens again. This time I put about 600 miles on the car without it happening, then all of sudden it did it twice within 2 miles. Once in park and Once slowing down for a stop sign. The car must sit for about 5 min before it will crank back up. This time I noticed the smell of fuel when turning it over before that 5 min wait. FP is verified at 42 when it dies and stays at 42. Heres a couple of logs...the problem occurs at 320 seconds on the log.

 

[sams86gn]

heres another log of trying to crank the car right after it died. It turns over fine but will not crank up.

 

[bpman1234]

When this happens are you checking for spark or pulse ?

 

[sams86gn]

Neither. I just keep trying to crank it every few min until it starts back up. usually it will crank back up and kinda run rough for 10 or 15 seconds and then smooth out and its good to go. The problem is if this happens at an intersection or crossing the bridge I'm gonna be screwed until it cranks back up.

 

[bpman1234]

Yeah you have to troubleshoot it when it happens check for spark check for injection pulse . Did you do anything to the car before this started .

 

[Eric Stage I]

You are losing the signal from the crank sensor. Could be the crank sensor, or anything in between the sensor and ECM (wiring, ign module).

 

[GNRick]

I think a symptom of a bad ignition module is when the car won't start when hot. Happened to me last year. I would stick with ac/delco and avoid the parts stores ' brands like BWD and Standard. Check rock auto for best price.

 

[sams86gn]

Thanks Eric! So should I just replace the crank sensor and go from there? I wonder why it wont start for a few minutes and then all of sudden starts?

 

[greeneyegi]

You are losing the signal from the crank sensor. Could be the crank sensor, or anything in between the sensor and ECM (wiring, ign module).

View attachment 282060

Eric what are you seeing in that log to say he's losing crank sensor signal?
I have an issue of not starting every once in awhile also

 

[MAK507]

I was having this problem... I got the ignition control module and coil pack from Kirban Performance. I also changed out the cam sensor and used the casper LED tool (not the LED cap).

It went from stalling to hesitation. Realized that the tps was not properly set. (went from .42 originally to .38... Bumped it up to .44). I first adjusted throttle blade screw to lower the iac (it was at 38 in idle/park when it should be 10-20).

This all fixed my issues.


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[sams86gn]

I thought it was my IAC originally and replaced it. It usually reads 30-32 engine warm in park. TPS .42. Neither of those should be causing it to die.

 

[greeneyegi]

I had a friends car would die like yours sounds, No problem starting again though.His was bone stock.
The iac and tps was off a bit, adjusted and so far so good.
Its been at least 2 months now.

 

[sams86gn]

does your friend drive the car often? Mine didn't do it for 6 months, when it was sitting in the garage lol I put about 600 miles on it before it finally did this again. The car runs GREAT other than this issue.

 

[greeneyegi]

does your friend drive the car often? Mine didn't do it for 6 months, when it was sitting in the garage lol I put about 600 miles on it before it finally did this again. The car runs GREAT other than this issue.[/
He drives it quite a bit.I would say 1000 miles since the adjustment.
30 mins @ a time im estimating.

 

[sams86gn]

hmm maybe that could be causing it. I figured TPS and IAC wouldn't cause it to die unless they were pretty far off.

 

[MAK507]

hmm maybe that could be causing it. I figured TPS and IAC wouldn't cause it to die unless they were pretty far off.

I've learned that no GN is the same as the other. Through my journey here on the forum I get many answers that a lot of the time are different than the other. Parts that are "garbage" to some are "perfectly fine" to others. My post is for my particular scenario and it happened to work out for me. Let us know how it goes, Good luck!

*** I also recommend checking for vacuum leaks? Maybe the EGR is stuck open as well? I had to get a new one... Diaphragm was stuck open... I got a stock used one online for a great deal.
- is the motor getting fuel? Fuel pump working? Fuel pressure regulator set correctly? Condition of injectors? I think I'd check out the coil pack&ignition control module first.. Then check cam sensor and crank sensor... Then move to fuel.

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[bpman1234]

This maybe a shot in the dark but for the hell of it check the ECM wire at the battery make sure its solid while it's running move it around see what happens you said it cuts out when coming to a stop or a light my car was cutting out when I came to a stop or left turn it was hanging by a strand .

 

[sams86gn]

I think a symptom of a bad ignition module is when the car won't start when hot. Happened to me last year. I would stick with ac/delco and avoid the parts stores ' brands like BWD and Standard. Check rock auto for best price.[/QUOTE
It doesn't appear to be a hot/cold issue. Ive drove it for hours with no problems and ive got in and cranked it up and backed out of the garage and it did happen. Then sometimes it will run great all day and then all of sudden do it.

 

[sams86gn]

This maybe a shot in the dark but for the hell of it check the ECM wire at the battery make sure its solid while it's running move it around see what happens you said it cuts out when coming to a stop or a light my car was cutting out when I came to a stop or left turn it was hanging by a strand .

already did that. Did not reveal anything.

 

[mikestertwo]

As Eric said you are losing spark for some reason. The rpm's are spiking and the O2's are dropping off which means the spark is dying. RPM's spiking says a bad connection somewhere. Could be anything in the spark control...crank sensor, ignition module or any of the electrical connections in between.