I'm going to build my own motor soon. How bad can I do, bet I can get more than 400 miles out of it! Anyway, I need some info. I'm trying to figure cost and materials needed. I'm going to build a short block and use my heads off the other motor. I need a block, caps, rods, pan, pickup, and studs/bolts. Can you think of anything else? How much do you think all this stuff will cost? I plan to reuse the stock pistons, and I have a cam, lifters, front cover, water pump, and bearings. I don't plan to make a zillion horsepower, but I think 500 flywheel horse is reasonable. Cam is flat tappet 206/206. Guess I'll need a balancer, rings, and I got a timing chain. Thanks for any help, and are these pistons gonna take the abuse? I'll put steel center caps on too. Oh, and btw I have a crank but it will probly need to be cut 20 under. Opinions?
Motor question
- Thread starter turbosam6
- Start date
The stock pistons and rods are almost as strong as the aftermarket stuff, even if they are pretty heavy. The rods and pistons are much more stout than the stock block/crank.
If you have to go 20 on the crank, you'll have to find a machine shop that knows exactly what its doing with regard to the rolled fillets. I broke an improperly machined crankshaft in a 99% stock hot-air. Also, when having the rods and pistons connected, make sure that the rod is offset from the center of the piston, as the bores are offset from the crank by quite a bit. You'll see that when you pull your motor apart though.
I currently have about 6,000 miles on the motor in my 87, and I probably put 15,000 miles on the one in my 84 before I sold the car.
And as far as cost goes, figure on $1000 at the very least including all of the machine work and odds/ends necessary.
I'd look for a really good machine shop around here that can make sure your crank isn't out of round or something like that before you have them grind it to 20.
If you have any questions or could use some extra hands, feel free to give me a call at 390-2617, or just post here again. A lot of the regulars have built more of these engines than I have.
If you have to go 20 on the crank, you'll have to find a machine shop that knows exactly what its doing with regard to the rolled fillets. I broke an improperly machined crankshaft in a 99% stock hot-air. Also, when having the rods and pistons connected, make sure that the rod is offset from the center of the piston, as the bores are offset from the crank by quite a bit. You'll see that when you pull your motor apart though.
I currently have about 6,000 miles on the motor in my 87, and I probably put 15,000 miles on the one in my 84 before I sold the car.
And as far as cost goes, figure on $1000 at the very least including all of the machine work and odds/ends necessary.
I'd look for a really good machine shop around here that can make sure your crank isn't out of round or something like that before you have them grind it to 20.
If you have any questions or could use some extra hands, feel free to give me a call at 390-2617, or just post here again. A lot of the regulars have built more of these engines than I have.
Steve Wood
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2001
Sam, I never know how to describe knock...whenever I have screwed up an engine, it sounds like someone in there with a sledge hammer. 
you might try to isolate the general area the sound is coming from. You might also get the thrust clearance on the crank checked.
It may, or may not be fatal so check it out first before you start spending money.
you might try to isolate the general area the sound is coming from. You might also get the thrust clearance on the crank checked.
It may, or may not be fatal so check it out first before you start spending money.
