MOOG K6421 LCA Bushings

[Morbid]

Finally got around to installing the bushing in the LCA's. First order Rock Auto sent me didn't have all the parts in the box.

Second order all four bushing were in the box and thankfully installing the bushings was way less pain and suffering than removing the 20+ year old ones.

However I'm noticing that the longer bushing once installed sticks out on the inboard side.

That is the the outboard side (the one with the lip on it) is flush with the metal on the LCA but the inboard side sticks out past the flange on the LCA.

I don't have anything to compare it to at the moment and was wondering if this is right or did Rock Auto f'up again.

Thanks
Morbid.

 

[87gninpa]

Its correct, just put these on my car. Finally got it all together and aligned this morning and it literally feels like a new car. Good luck.

 

[Morbid]

Thanks man for answering up.

The Bushing went in so easily (compared to taking them out) w/the factory tool, I was looking for something wrong.
I called the race shop near me where I take stuff and he said they have dealt w/a bent ear on these control arms so I'll drop the arm off Monday and let them deal with the last bushing.

Your working on the same projects I am (front suspension and you did I brake line I haven't gotten to yet)
Your way ahead of me.

Does replacing the Bushing on the LCA and Ball Joint require a alignment? I hadn't thought about that.

 

[87gninpa]

True, the ears can get bent but the bushings still stick out slightly even when they're straight. If its bent, just bend it back carefully, no big deal.

Finally got the brake lines done and got the car aligned yesterday. I actually did upper & lower arms, steering linkage, steering box, and springs. Basically every part in the front end is new, it feels amazing. Shouldnt "have" to align with just new bushings & ball joints but its definitely a good idea. I had to get one because of the steering linkage.

Let me know if you have any other questions, just glad I finally finished and can enjoy the car (for now).

 

[Morbid]

Your really ahead of me as those items you mentioned are what I wanted to do. Except I'm taking baby steps and you dive right in.
I've got two cars on the road and the cost of one simple project on my Audi is like 3 or 4 times that on the Regal. Heck just changing the oil and various filters comes in close to of over $100.00
So I'm bouncing back and forth.

When you dropped the LCA's did you have the tie rods out first? I'm having a hard time accessing the front bolt as the tie rod is blocking it so I can't get a socket on it.
Did you rebuild your steering box or buy another?

I really want to get some of the "slop" out of the front end which is what started me down this path. I drive the Audi and everything is nice and tight. The Regal feels like shit but to be expected with age.

 

[87gninpa]

Yea, took the steering linkage out first which helped with access, but a short 18mm socket should be ok. Hopefully your bolts come out easy, I fought with one that was frozen in the bushing for an hour or so. Ended up cutting it out, that was a nightmare. Getting the arms/springs back in wasnt too fun either.

As far as the box, got a rebuilt Delco box from RockAuto for about $120, cant beat that. Even with all new parts it still doesnt feel like a modern rack & pinion car (dont think it ever will), but all the slop is gone. These cars just didnt have a lot of resistance in the steering like modern cars.

 

[Morbid]

Nahh, I tried to get a socket on it but can't because the tie rod is in the way. Weird cause the FSM doesn't mention having to drop that part to access the bolt head.
Both nuts came off pretty easy with a 1/2" impact gun and after they soaked in penetrating oil for a few days. I wasn't able to just spin the rear bolt out but it came out w/the impact gun.
As you said, the bolts are seized to the inner sleeve. I'm hoping to just be able to drop the outer tie rod from the knuckle get the front bolt out the same as the rear.
Or worse case do as you did and cut it out, since I have new bolts anyway.

I have the factory tool the used in the FSM for the front springs mounted to a floor jack. Getting the Springs out or back in shouldn't be a issue. I hope.

On to today's events.

Went to move the car today to get it in position so I could get it up in the air for tackling that Brake Line.
Figured I'd use the Parking Park as I only needed to move it a few feet.

Put the Parking Brake Pedal down and it went straight to the floor and I heard a pop. Yup you guessed it, the front cable snapped right at the equalizer which is just hanging now.
As with the Rear Brake Hose that connects to that line I'm putting in, none of the local auto parts stores stock it. Not Advance Auto, Autozone, PepBoys.

Now I have to order it online and wait till next weekend to get some wrench'in done.

The only saving grace here is this car isn't my DD. Otherwise w/all the shit that's failed in the last weeks/year, one right after another I'd be more pissed than I am.

 

[87gninpa]

Man, sorry to hear that. Thats pretty much how mine was for the past 6 weeks, every time I thought I was done something else would go. Was finally able to take it for a nice long drive today, made it all worth it. You can get all the brake cables from RockAuto, where I order pretty much everything for the car. Usually cant find stuff cheaper anywhere, and they stock Delco in most replacement parts which is great.

 

[Morbid]

Appreciate the thoughts. I usually shop Rock Auto but the cable I need to replace (Center/Intermediate) they don't stock. I wasn't able to find it anywhere except gmpartsdirect or newgmparts.
On top of that shipping would've been delayed 5 days from date of order for the cables anyway.

I'm just going to go ahead and replace the cable that snapped and both rears while I'm I'm doing that brake line and pray nothing else breaks before I get back to the front suspension.