missing, running rich

[YNOVATE]

I got my car out of storage last week. when I put it in storage my car had big problems running at more than 40% throttle. it would bog down and the timing was retarding. one thought was a bad knock sensor. So I replaced that yesterday, new plugs/wires, cleaned the MAF sensor, fresh gas, and my car is missing badly and running pig rich!

it backfires through the turbo when I start it when its cold.

If the maf sensor is bad will it affect a car that much that it completely alters the way the car ran?

two weeks ago I was driving around town letting my car breath again for the first time and it cruises fine, but everytime I went to accelerate at about 1/2 throttle it would bog right down and go nowhere.

once again I'm at a loss
any help is appreciated

 

[YNOVATE]

can anyone give me a part # for a MAF sensor that I can use on my car. I tried to look up the part # at gnttype.org but there wasn't one listed for the hot air cars and the MAF sensor for IC cars was discontinued.

thanks

 

[YNOVATE]

I went through GNTTYPE.ORG looking for answers and I've still got nothing. Can anyone give me the firing order in relation from the coil to the plugs? again I couldn't find this on the above site either. I did the plugs one at a time...but i've learned not to overlook anything. the only thing that's happened to my car is the positive wire that runs from the battery to the alternator got fried. while changing out the knock sensor I had to move the turbo to get back there and the up-pipe fell forward and rested on the connection. I replaced the wire and checked all other wires and connections around it and everything is ok. would the surge affect the Cam/Crank sensors???

if you don't know me or my car here it is:
freshly rebuilt last summer, new bore, pistons,crank,cam, turbo(stock),fuel pump with adj reg., all new vaccum lines and tps set correctly thanks to turbo6x2 last fall, the rest of the mods are in my sig, I replaced the knock sensor as suggested to me and when I hooked everything back up it runs worse than before.

I'm sorry if all these "amateur" questions are older than dirt but I have to get my car running halfway descent before I sell it. I'm giving up and I don't want to be this far in debt with a car that I cant enjoy. I've owned this car for 4 years now and Turbo6x2 knows better than anyone all the $#!& I've endured along this journey. I can't thank all of you enough for the help I've recieved from this board but as the saying goes....know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em.

thanks again
-Brad-

 

[turbo6x2]

Firing order is listed with important information under sticky post. Look there make sure you have this set up correctly. Will cause a major issue if not set up. Not sure, do know we fixed pretty much all your vacuum leaks last fall. Would like to help but trying to get ready for Norwalk and Nationals. I will be available after that if you are still in need. Starting the weekend of May 24th. You should check you tps again and iac settings to make sure nothing go wacked. This happened to us before, thought it was okay and we must of moved something. Let us know. Sorry to hear you need to sale the car. What plug and gap are you running?

 

[YNOVATE]

CR43TS gapped @ .035

to be honest I hope to have the car running well and sold by the first couple of weeks of May. But who knows I might not be able to do that. If I still have it at the end of May....any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

I didn't want to give up on this thing, but when all you do is change the knock sensor,plugs, and wires and it runs a hell of a lot worse than when you bring it out of storage.....I had enough.

 

[LAWRENCE ELVOID]

Sorry to hear your car is not running right. If the crank sensor is not set right the car will run like you say. There should be .030" clearance on each side of the blade on the back of the crank pulley that goes between the blades of the crank sensor. The crank sensor is located on the drivers side of the front at the bottom of the engine. It is just to the left of the fuel filter and below it. Rotate the crank by hand with the ignition off until the blades are where you can measure them. If the crank sensor needs adjusting there is a screw that can be loosened (barely) and the sensor can be moved. When you have it set retighten the screw. BE VERY CAREFUL because the bracket is cast and breaks easily. You cannot by the bracket separately and a new sensor is about $60 and will have to be modified to work. Once the sensor is set and if it fires all will be well.

The firing order is simple. Engine driver side from front to back is 1, 3, 5 Pass side 2, 4, 6 front to back. The coil has the numbers for the correct plug wire so just hook them up. Be sure the posts are clean and use the dielectric grease for a good contact. Once you get the car right you will keep it. The only thing about computer cars is that you need to learn a few new things.

Lawrence