Misc. questions on 200R4 rebuild details.

F

Fred 86 GN

Guest
As I go through my transmission rebuild, I am coming across various stuff that is confusing or questionable that I would like some other opinions on please :D

1) the ATSG (?) manual I bought for the 200R4 shows and calls out for two (2) wave washers in the forward clutch pack. The Helm manual only calls for one. My trans builder only remembers using one in the past. We assembled it with one and it seems OK...but for the record which is correct?

2) Is 0.060" for the direct drum and 0.040" for the forward drum clutch pack clearance appropriate? Do you guys "cram" the feeler gages between the upper ring and the retaining ring, or just go for a slight "drag"?

3) The direct drum backing plate was warped (looks like a big bellville washer!:eek:) and I got a new one. What could have caused it to bend out like that?

4) Will a .005" high by .010" wide ridge around the outside diameter on the direct drum cause more than a small matching groove to be worn in the band?

5) After seating the direct and forward drum assembly into the transmission housing, we measured the distance from the drum to the big counterbore in the casing and it was 4.4-4.5". Both the Helm and the ATSG manuals say it should be 4.125". Where could we have lost 3/8"??? We installed a .100 thrust washer under the assembly.

6) Which do you guys prefer -- steel check balls or the viton rubber check balls for the valve body?

7) How do you route the transmission pressure gage into the car to monitor it while driving?


Thanks for your input! :)
 
Originally posted by Fred 86 GN
As I go through my transmission rebuild, I am coming across various stuff that is confusing or questionable that I would like some other opinions on please :D

1) the ATSG (?) manual I bought for the 200R4 shows and calls out for two (2) wave washers in the forward clutch pack. The Helm manual only calls for one. My trans builder only remembers using one in the past. We assembled it with one and it seems OK...but for the record which is correct?

Two Wave washers are in 89 and later units utilizing an aluminum piston with no ck ball in forward drum. If you have steel pston and a ck ball in forward drum use one If you have an aluminum piston forward drum with no ck ball it used two. however eliminating one in the aluminum one is ok but change the pressure plate to a steel pistom pressure plate.

2) Is 0.060" for the direct drum and 0.040" for the forward drum clutch pack clearance appropriate? Do you guys "cram" the feeler gages between the upper ring and the retaining ring, or just go for a slight "drag"?

With .060 in high cluutch you are creating GIANT 2-3 flair Will not work well.
.040 in forward is ok.
And NO You use a dial indicator and do it right.



3) The direct drum backing plate was warped (looks like a big bellville washer!:eek:) and I got a new one. What could have caused it to bend out like that?

Heat and clutches slipping...yes throw it away..

4) Will a .005" high by .010" wide ridge around the outside diameter on the direct drum cause more than a small matching groove to be worn in the band?

NO WAY. If drum is scored AT ALL start over with a different drum

5) After seating the direct and forward drum assembly into the transmission housing, we measured the distance from the drum to the big counterbore in the casing and it was 4.4-4.5". Both the Helm and the ATSG manuals say it should be 4.125". Where could we have lost 3/8"??? We installed a .100 thrust washer under the assembly.

I have no clue......You put it together... and That clearence is not that critical but 3/8ths of inch is a mile. better go back and find out what you either left out or changed

6) Which do you guys prefer -- steel check balls or the viton rubber check balls for the valve body?

Steel

7) How do you route the transmission pressure gage into the car to monitor it while driving?

For temporary to just ck we run through the drivers window. for on board we use a ultralite autometer 0-400 psi gauge


Thanks for your input! :)

Hope this helps
Bruce
WE4
www.ptsnctb.com
 
Thanks for the good information Bruce! :)

If the 0.010" per plate to too generous in the direct clutch pack clearance, then what range do you recommend to tighten it up to?

Thanks,
 
Park gear bearing missing?

That's the one i always forget untill all the parts from the center support down are in the trans and that's the only bearing {In the great words of homer j simpson, " Doh"}. on the bench. Damn i hate when that happens. May want to check the washer\bearing under the low roller clutch in the rear planet also. The only other thing may be the selective washer in the front of the output shaft. Hope that helps. Mike
 
The tailshaft assembly was checked for endplay during assembly into the transmission case -- the big snap-ring holds that assembly from going up and the smaller one keeps it from going down. The endplay was less than 0.03"...so that should eliminate anything below that upper snap ring as being put in wrong or left out. Then the 0.100" brown thrust washer was placed in and the forward and direct drum assembly was set down on top of it till the clutches engaged and the direct drums' four outer fingers were in their proper slots. The 5/8" dimension for the forward and direct clutches was good. So is there something about 1/4" thick that goes between the forward clutch and the thrust washer?

I'll look over the cross-sections of the transmission and the parts still laying around and see what I can find...just wanting ideas like blackplague provided -- Thanks bp!

Bruce -- I found my notes about the direct preload from talking to you before -- .038" to .040" clearance and I have to get some of the .101" oversized metals to do it. Thanks again.
 
No problem those are the clearences you want,and yes there is a 1/4 inch thrust washer that looks like a big teflon ring that goes between direct clutch and forard clutch. That would do it..:) . we incorperate a bearing there but stock uses a plastic washer that looks like a big teflon ring.

Bruce
WE4
 
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