Major tuneup

[turbotest]

My 2nd post,
I just got me an 84 t-type and just tore down a bunch of parts for cleaning, replacing, the usual.
I am going to replace the valve cover gaskets, clean the throttle body, maf, replace old vacuums, etc
So far i've found the turbo is good , but the throttle body looks kinda weird, the turbo housing only has 2 bolt holes where the throttle body has 4?
also what brand and size is the stock turbo?
I was told by the last owner that a chip has been installed but i have yet to look into that.
I also found the *insert name here* unit leaks, you know the one with the hydraulic pressure behind the master cylinder, what should i do about it?
can i get a new one and bolt in on and itll be good?
Thats all i can think of so far. Thanks...
oh yeah here it is:

 

[turbotest]

I finally got to drive my 84 t-type again.
I did all the spring cleaning, replaced vacuum lines, cleaned throttle body, replaced water pump, hoses, and valve cover gaskets.
The good news is the engine looks clean inside the intake manifold and valve covers, the bad is there are two connections one in each fender just sitting there, one has 3 prongs and the other one is square, so the car is not as original as i thought... any idea what these might be?
The ECM is from an 85. I managed to break that tee vacuum fitting with the restriction and could not find it at any auto parts stores, so i ended up using just the restriction part in line with a regular tee fitting. Is there any place where i could find this vacuum tee with a restriction?
I am getting some really bad detonation at the WOT what should i be looking at?
also I am really lost with this car, can anyone please direct me to some good reading?
i absolutely hate not having any gauges, i am used to Olds with their full gauge array but here i have nothing, so i am going to start buying me some gauges, i dont like to guess for this stuff...
Also as far as scanner goes, will one of those cheap autozone scanners work for me?
Guys i am going to need a lot of help with this car, I can tell you though this thing is nice I am beginning to like it more than i thought i would specially when on the boost :biggrin:

 

[Boost231]

ok as far as the connectors post some pics and i will be able to tell you what they are. as far as the vacumm T i have one if you need it. the scanners at autozone they wont work you need a scan master turbo link or something like that. i can get back to you more tomorrow when im at work i have more time then.

 

[Jerryl]

A few thoughts for you

I hope I do not insult your intelligence with my post.
You did not state a performance goal so I am posting stad tuning/maintenance requirements.

First(s)
Turn the boost down to as low as it will go (if you can)
Get some fresh 93 in the tank
Quit beating on it before you break it. You will get your chance for the beating.

Info on these cars
Read, read, read.
Than go and read some more.
This site, Turbo Regal Web Site , and Vortex Turbo Buick Performance are all excellent.

Here are my recommendations for your next purchases (If you have not yet done these);
Scantool – Skip the others and go straight to the Power Logger. TurboTweak Home
Injectors - Make sure these are good! TurboTweak Home
Fuel pump – Make sure your pump can handle the requirements
Hotwire – Hotwire the fuel pump (Walbro 340)
ECM – Upgrade to the 87 ECM
Chip – Get a good chip – Contact TurboTweak Home
MAF – Make sure your MAF is good (With the scantool) or upgrade TurboTweak Home
Plugs – Change the plugs and gap to around 0.032 – 0.034 (AC24's are a good start)
Plug wires – Replace with some good ones
Ignition – Make sure your coil and module are in working order
Grounds – Check ALL your grounds and make sure they are clean.
Charging system – Make sure your alternator is in tip/top shape
Battery – Make sure it is good and can handle the load.
Spring cleaning – Do a search and get is ALL done Turbo Regal Web Site. Take NO shortcuts!
Oil - Get some good oil with some ZDDP in it. Do a search on ZDDP on this site.
Fuel filter – Just change it.
Oil filter – Get a good filter (AC Delco 52 will do)
Vacuum hoses – Verify and replace all defective ones.
Exhaust leaks – Do whatever it takes to fix and any all of these.
Transmission - Make sure you adjust the TV-Cable correctly before it burns.

Parts
Look on the front page of http://www.turbobuick.com/
Links to vendors are provided

Turbo – Stock flows around 370 CFM. Look in the turbo section.
Brakes – If you have a “hydroboost” system, replace the hydroboost unit.

Have fun, be safe, and ask! (This should keep you busy for a while )
After you complete some of the verifications, post some scan tool numbers and the members here will trip over themselves to help you succeed!



PS:
Did I say “Read, read, read” ????
Update your location in the profile.

 

[O SO LO]

I agree with Jerryl--I'm new to this also. I've
learned alot reading the posts here as well as Turbo Regal
There's GOOD people on here to help you as well.
Read, Read, Read...

 

[turbotest]

Thanks everyone for the replies
So far i've only done spring cleaning, and all vacuum lines.
The wastegate looks to be stock so i dont think its adjustable. or is it?
My goals are a low 13 sec. car
Oh when at the turbo regal site where do i find all the info, i've looked thru various posts here and have found direct links but dont know how to get to all the info on that site, where should i look?
Also it seems as if i need to move to an 86+ ecm in order for any scantool to work, correct?
what are the benefits of a newer ecm?
Thanks, i am now back to reading

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Welcome to our world. The waste gate actuator rod is how you increase or decrease boost. If yours had threads and a nut on it it is adjustable. If yours has the nut do nut touch it until you get a knock gauge. The shorter the rod the more boost you have.
The website GNTTYPE.ORG is down now for a rebuild. Be patient.
I would upgrade to the 87 ECM right away. The benefits are to many to list but the bottom line is custom made chips burned to your setup.
The scantool which can read the 85 ECM is an OTC 4000. Forget about it. Get a powerlogger and a Caspers Knock gauge-forget the Scanmaster route as it is clearly out of date. Good luck and post if you need more help. Brad

 

[turbotest]

People i have read and read and I am still not done
However i'd like to know if all this stuff that has been mentioned is necessary to run low 13's?
So far i've gathered i need an updated ecm and chip and scanner, probably a maf and translator, all this stuff adds up quick, very quick so id like to keep it a budget build if possible
I'll post some pics of my engine bay tonight and those two 'connectors'
Thanks everyone.

 

[Boost231]

People i have read and read and I am still not done
However i'd like to know if all this stuff that has been mentioned is necessary to run low 13's?
So far i've gathered i need an updated ecm and chip and scanner, probably a maf and translator, all this stuff adds up quick, very quick so id like to keep it a budget build if possible
I'll post some pics of my engine bay tonight and those two 'connectors'
Thanks everyone.

one of the best thiongs you can do for your car is go to the 86-87 ecm. this is a cheap mod and very simple to do. then you can get a chip from turbo tweak that will make your car run like a dream. when you upgrade your ecm you can get a data logger like the powerlogger and this way you can tune your car. the ecm is not needed to get you to your goal but it will help

brent

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you cannot get a hot air into the low thirteens on a budget. Remember- The stock 84/85 hot air is a 15 second quarter stock. Read some more. Brad

 

[turbotest]

Oh well!
I guess that 13 sec. duty will have to wait :redface:
until i get this thing working right
So now the idle is not smooth, got a new air filter most of the knock is gone but there is still some.
God i hate not having gauges
Anybody have a picture of a stock throttle body? mine has 4 bolt holes but there is only two on the turbo???
Also what brand and series is the stock turbo?
Oh yeah here is the pix i promised i would post:

So far on the shopping list:
87 ecm + chip (possibly aftermarket)
maf + translator
powerlogger
Thanks for putting up with my ignorance...
I will just love using my laptop to tune this car, i've always wanted to do that on a car :tongue:
This car also had duals installed which i dont really like, i am going with a single 2.5" with a dynomax when i have a chance, oh did i mention this thing has an exhaust leak?
Back to reading....

 

[Jerryl]

It appears from the pics that you have a stock TB and stock Waste Gate actuator, and 87 ECM/Ignition module.

First connector picture - Does not plug in anywhere.
Second connector (Depending on where it is) looks like the MAP sensor.

See the breather filter on the intake tract before the TB?
That is a BIG BIG problem. Remove it immediately and plug the hole.
It is most likely a big part for the source of your knock.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Turbotest- Brent(Boost231) is correct for your first mods. The stock throttle body has four bolt holes but only two are used. I do not see any need at your level to be fooling around with the throtle body. Keep us posted. Brad

 

[Boost231]

It appears from the pics that you have a stock TB and stock Waste Gate actuator, and 87 ECM/Ignition module.

First connector picture - Does not plug in anywhere.
Second connector (Depending on where it is) looks like the MAP sensor.

See the breather filter on the intake tract before the TB?
That is a BIG BIG problem. Remove it immediately and plug the hole.
It is most likely a big part for the source of your knock.

+1 take that filter off and plug that hole. i bet the car runs and idles 1000% times better once you do that. thats a huge vacum leak.

 

[turbotest]

Ok, so i kinda figured the coilpack was not stock to the car, stupid me when first starting the car after spring cleaning i plugged in the wires in the order thats on the coilpack and the thing would not fire , figured out to use the 84/5 coil pack diagram and it started right away
The ECM might be from an 85 i actually did not cross-referenced the numbers but it was postmarked '85 with what looked to be a stock chip, but hey you never know
Leaks always bother me, exhaust leaks that is and i have one but have yet to find it.
Anyway Thanks for all the help. I'll keep you all updated

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

[Leaks always bother me, exhaust leaks that is and i have one but have yet to find it.
Anyway Thanks for all the help. I'll keep you all updated [/QUOTE]

The obvious leaks are the headers. The hard ones are the crossover pipe. My crossover pipe was leaking at both ends. Good luck- Brad

 

[turbotest]

Thanks everyone for the great info
I have not ordered anything at all however, X-Mas and all has taken up all the funds.
I found out my ecm is from an 85, when upgrading to the 87 module will it work with the chip thats on the module already? or do i order a custom chip?
I tried doing my exhaust this weekend but the guy went on vacation till next year so that will have to wait.
I plugged that breather as instructed and it does run much better, however i am concerned there can be too much pressure in the crankcase, should i add a breather on the valve cover?
I also read a link on 86/7 coil pack conversion (thanks Mark), but it seems i already have the updated coilpack as pointed out by many here
Now I am trying to put together a list of things that will need updating and it is growing quick as the interior needs some help as well, things i am finding makes me think some people should not even be allowed near cars .
So now for the big question, is it possible to run low 13's on pump gas? if so what is needed?
Also i must very sadly report my transmission will need a rebuild sooner than i thought it would, i guess i'll be calling B. Hofer soon

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Here I go briefly but remember there are different ways to get into the low thirteens.

87 ECM- The large chip needs to be burned to your specific mods. Try Turbotweak. The small chip in our 85 ECM needs to be removed and installed in the 87 ECM. Either have the chip burned to ignore the missing Mat sensor or get one from Caspers.

Transmission- Get it rebuilt and get a stall converter-popular one is 2800.

Low 13's- Get the following- Scan tool( the best is a powerlogger hands down), knock gauge, Razor Alky kit, Adj waste gate actuator, Walbro 340 fuel pump hot wired, adj fuel pressure regualtor, most likely 36 ibs injectors, larger exhaust system. Also eliminate the CAT with testpipe.

If the above doesn't get you there add the following- Ta33c turbo, ported intake and heads, MT drag radials, larger injectors. Maybe larger downpipe.

Heat problem- Fbody radiator, large single fan, Caspers 85 electric fan conversion kit and relay. The dual ramchargers require the additional Caspers dual fan relays.

Chime in anybody. Brad

 

[1QUICK85]

13's are capable with little mods.......just have to go intercooled or alky injection.
My old '85 ran a 13.9xx with a spearco front mount intercooler, adj. wastegate rod, adj. fuel regulator, high flow fuel pump, 9in cone filter, high flow cat, old *** kenne bell cat back and KB chip, knock gauge, boost gauge, and about 19 of boost on 93 octane. Thats with stock motor, maf, injectors, computer, headers, crossover, stock turbo & tranny, peg leg rear-end, and street tires. These cars are capable of 13's!! High 13's are still respectable on todays streets.
You could put electric fans in with a switch too....depends on preference, but if your on a budget. The stock tranny will hold up fine if your not beating the crap out it all the time and you are running street tires.
Make sure you car is up and running strong before modding it!!
-Nick.

 

[turbotest]

I'm back and just started reading some more at gnttype.org since its up now
So far i purchased my 87 ecm from luisturbog and my powerlogger from fullthrottle which by the way have amazing customer service , luisturbog advised me to get a chip and since i am barely starting i will go with an emissions chip most likely. Once i do all this i know i will have a code for no IAT signal but will the 84 maf work? do i need an 87? i was planning on an lt1 maf but the translator is $$$ after that i will do a good 2.5" single with a dynomax muffler (i can't stand the flowmasters that are on it now) and look at a new stock replacement alternator. So far i've only put 120 miles on the car, i havent driven it since last year :tongue:
Do you guys know where i can find a replacement window regulator? i am trying to not have to go to the jyard and pull a used one... any info is appreciated and as always Thanks!