OK, I just got done changing the cam in the TTA as the old aftermarket lifters didn't want to lift anymore (bad backs?).
I got the car running, broke in the cam, and took it for a test drive. Idles great, runs pretty good, only hit about 10psi and seems to haul buns. During the test drive it did sputter a couple times like it lost ignition. Well, good enough for now. Drove it to work, sputters again a couple times and the check engine light came on twice. Didn't have the laptop with me so I waited till I got home to check the code. Code 45 (I think) O2 rich. I look at the BLM's and no wonder, they are all below 115. Look at the vacuum gauge and I only get about 10" so not surprising as the regulator is spitting about 4psi extra fuel (same chip). Turn doen the FP and run it through emissions and pass but barely, normally fly through with ease. During the test I am watching DS and st sputtered for a split second a couple times. Drive it home and then to work, on the way to work it starts sputtering really bad so I tap the throttle WOT and start recording it on DS. Car is sputtering so bad it is losing speed (from 45mph) and I am forced to pull to the shoulder, almost there. Idle through the gaurd shack and slowly get up to 30mph, still stumbling a little, park it and let it idle for a sec, no real problems. Look at the recorded DS file and am boggled.
When it stumbles the MAF goes from 255 to teens and back every few frames with the TPS constant anywhere from 1.4-2.5 (where I happened to be holding the throttle) and the inj PW follows the MAF along with LV8 and concequently the O2's end up pig rich. I tried repositioning the MAF and tube for the drive home and it had no affect, still sputter and bogged mostly under acceleration or cruise.
What do I need to check first.
Plugs and wires good/new
Coil and module new
already checked grounds
DS file available to anyone who wants to take a look.
Thanks for any help anyone can give me.
BTW, Maf was great before I tore the car apart, btu I know that doesn't mean much. What should happen to a good maf when you tap it?
I got the car running, broke in the cam, and took it for a test drive. Idles great, runs pretty good, only hit about 10psi and seems to haul buns. During the test drive it did sputter a couple times like it lost ignition. Well, good enough for now. Drove it to work, sputters again a couple times and the check engine light came on twice. Didn't have the laptop with me so I waited till I got home to check the code. Code 45 (I think) O2 rich. I look at the BLM's and no wonder, they are all below 115. Look at the vacuum gauge and I only get about 10" so not surprising as the regulator is spitting about 4psi extra fuel (same chip). Turn doen the FP and run it through emissions and pass but barely, normally fly through with ease. During the test I am watching DS and st sputtered for a split second a couple times. Drive it home and then to work, on the way to work it starts sputtering really bad so I tap the throttle WOT and start recording it on DS. Car is sputtering so bad it is losing speed (from 45mph) and I am forced to pull to the shoulder, almost there. Idle through the gaurd shack and slowly get up to 30mph, still stumbling a little, park it and let it idle for a sec, no real problems. Look at the recorded DS file and am boggled.
When it stumbles the MAF goes from 255 to teens and back every few frames with the TPS constant anywhere from 1.4-2.5 (where I happened to be holding the throttle) and the inj PW follows the MAF along with LV8 and concequently the O2's end up pig rich. I tried repositioning the MAF and tube for the drive home and it had no affect, still sputter and bogged mostly under acceleration or cruise.
What do I need to check first.
Plugs and wires good/new
Coil and module new
already checked grounds
DS file available to anyone who wants to take a look.
Thanks for any help anyone can give me.
BTW, Maf was great before I tore the car apart, btu I know that doesn't mean much. What should happen to a good maf when you tap it?
