TurboMonte 2
Car Nut
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
Let's give credit where credit is due! I believe THIS (post#2) is where the "crank sensor" misnomer started.
Anyhow Luke, it looks like you've sorted it out OK now...
Loud tapping from water pump area??
- Thread starter Luke
- Start date
Let's give credit where credit is due! I believe THIS (post#2) is where the "crank sensor" misnomer started.
Anyhow Luke, it looks like you've sorted it out OK now...
Yes, I meant cam sensor... I think everybody knew that.. and mentioned it already. But thanks for pointing it out again
Actually...
It's not really sorted out quite yet. There was a tapping/rattling sound from my cam sensor that was audible through the stethescope which went away when it was replaced. However, this was not the noise I was hearing from the engine. I drained the oil last night and inspected it, sifted through it with a magnet. I didn't see any metal but the two week old oil is dark and the surface of it looks gray and silky. I'm not sure what it could be. If it's not fine metal particles, could it be solvents from the cleaning of my headgasket job? I'm going to try cutting the oil filter tonight.
Luke
It's not really sorted out quite yet. There was a tapping/rattling sound from my cam sensor that was audible through the stethescope which went away when it was replaced. However, this was not the noise I was hearing from the engine. I drained the oil last night and inspected it, sifted through it with a magnet. I didn't see any metal but the two week old oil is dark and the surface of it looks gray and silky. I'm not sure what it could be. If it's not fine metal particles, could it be solvents from the cleaning of my headgasket job? I'm going to try cutting the oil filter tonight.
Luke
Hmm...
It looks like the same color of graphite from a headgasket or like the gray assembly lube is mixed with the oil... The oil is brownish gray but theres a silky gray unmixed layer that seems to lie on top. I don't think that there's enough assembly lube from 8 studs, nuts, and washers to show in the oil. I figured it would blend in. Am I wrong?
I put oil in it and a new filter. I was poking around with the stethoscope again while the engine was running and I hear a light tapping from my lower oil pump cover. I can only hear if from the cam sensor when the car is first started up??? I'm still not sure if it's the same noise when the car is under load. I also used the stethoscope on the block in different places and on the oil pan but could not hear the noise, just a smooth hum.
My oil pressure guage and high flow oil pump come in today. I'm not planning on installing the pump immediatly. It'll be interesting to see what my oil pressure is first...
It looks like the same color of graphite from a headgasket or like the gray assembly lube is mixed with the oil... The oil is brownish gray but theres a silky gray unmixed layer that seems to lie on top. I don't think that there's enough assembly lube from 8 studs, nuts, and washers to show in the oil. I figured it would blend in. Am I wrong?
I put oil in it and a new filter. I was poking around with the stethoscope again while the engine was running and I hear a light tapping from my lower oil pump cover. I can only hear if from the cam sensor when the car is first started up??? I'm still not sure if it's the same noise when the car is under load. I also used the stethoscope on the block in different places and on the oil pan but could not hear the noise, just a smooth hum.
My oil pressure guage and high flow oil pump come in today. I'm not planning on installing the pump immediatly. It'll be interesting to see what my oil pressure is first...
TurboMonte 2
Car Nut
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
Hopefully you saved the old oil drained from pan & observed bottom portion vs. top. You should pour off the btm 1-2 qts in a clear plastic container (2-liter soda bottle = fine) & let it set & observe for settling out of the lighter-colored, milkier, watery portion--heavier than oil of course...
Oil
I installed the oil pressure guage and have some numbers. The pressure seems to be good. 75psi on a cold start and about 13psi when warmed up. put some new oil in it as well and it clouded up pretty quickly and turned grayish. There is no debris in my oil. My father saw some auto tv show that mentioned blow-by can make your oil cloudy like this. During my test with oil pressure I noticed that there was more smoke than usuall on start up. It didn't go away once the car warmed up. The smoke looked blue so I'm certain I'm burning oil now... I drove it around a little bit and the smoke seemed to reduce it self.
Is it possible my heads need another retorque?
The tapping sound seems to be getting louder and I can even hear it a little bit during Idle now.
Do I have busted rings? Could it be my timing chain (probably the factory chain)? Can I rule out a rod knock? The problems seem to be multiplying and I'm not sure where to start... I guess I'll have to retorque and do a leakdown test, if that's good I'll pull off the front cover and change my timing chain and tensioner.
I installed the oil pressure guage and have some numbers. The pressure seems to be good. 75psi on a cold start and about 13psi when warmed up. put some new oil in it as well and it clouded up pretty quickly and turned grayish. There is no debris in my oil. My father saw some auto tv show that mentioned blow-by can make your oil cloudy like this. During my test with oil pressure I noticed that there was more smoke than usuall on start up. It didn't go away once the car warmed up. The smoke looked blue so I'm certain I'm burning oil now... I drove it around a little bit and the smoke seemed to reduce it self.
Is it possible my heads need another retorque?
The tapping sound seems to be getting louder and I can even hear it a little bit during Idle now.
Do I have busted rings? Could it be my timing chain (probably the factory chain)? Can I rule out a rod knock? The problems seem to be multiplying and I'm not sure where to start... I guess I'll have to retorque and do a leakdown test, if that's good I'll pull off the front cover and change my timing chain and tensioner.
Do a compression test on each cylinder and post your results... should be able to borrow a tool at autozone or something if you dont have one.
Pulling the timing chain cover and giving it an inspection certainly wont hurt anything either!
If the car sits for a little while it probably will smoke at startup. Oil seeps past the valve guides on the heads and into the cylinders after sitting... then smokes when you start it up and burn it off. Pretty normal unless motor/ heads are newer... so not sure I would worry too much about that...
Pulling the timing chain cover and giving it an inspection certainly wont hurt anything either!
If the car sits for a little while it probably will smoke at startup. Oil seeps past the valve guides on the heads and into the cylinders after sitting... then smokes when you start it up and burn it off. Pretty normal unless motor/ heads are newer... so not sure I would worry too much about that...
johnnyttype
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2007
I installed the oil pressure guage and have some numbers. The pressure seems to be good. 75psi on a cold start and about 13psi when warmed up. put some new oil in it as well and it clouded up pretty quickly and turned grayish. There is no debris in my oil. My father saw some auto tv show that mentioned blow-by can make your oil cloudy like this. During my test with oil pressure I noticed that there was more smoke than usuall on start up. It didn't go away once the car warmed up. The smoke looked blue so I'm certain I'm burning oil now... I drove it around a little bit and the smoke seemed to reduce it self.
QUOTE]
ive noticed with my cars oil that one oil change hardly effects its color. if u ever have ur oil pan down and take a look, there is a raised bung in the pan about 1/4"-3/8" tall, cant remember exactly, for the drain plug, so when u drain the oil there is still that much oil across the whole surface of the oil pan and if it has material in it that is more dense than oil it will stay in the pan! hope that makes sense
def. do the comp. test and post results!
johnnyttype,
I know what you mean but this seems very different to me. I've done 2 oil changes within about two weeks and haven't driven it around much. After changing the oil I always unplug the ECM power and crank the motor with the starter for about 20 seconds to get some oil in the system, and then I start it up, let it run a few minutes before topping it off. Usually, for a little less than a week after the change the oil is so clean it's almost difficult to read the level on the dipstick. This time it just fogged up and turned charcoal gray the same day it was changed with less than an hour drive time. Anyhow, I will be dropping the pan to get the front cover off anyway.
NothinYet,
The smoking just started this weekend. This is more smoke than I've seen from the tailpipes... Also the heads where resurfaced, checked for cracks, magnafluxed, valve job and new valve guide seals. It's steadily pouring out of the exhaust and looks very dense. I'm no expert but I'd think that if the rings were ravaged that badly, it'd run a little rough and have drivability issues. Despite the tapping and the smoking, this car runs great. Is it possible that it could be oil seals in the turbo?
I'm not convinced the tapping and smoking are related issues I'm leaning towards the possibility that my turbo is starting to leak oil into the exhaust
Thank you for your input.
I know what you mean but this seems very different to me. I've done 2 oil changes within about two weeks and haven't driven it around much. After changing the oil I always unplug the ECM power and crank the motor with the starter for about 20 seconds to get some oil in the system, and then I start it up, let it run a few minutes before topping it off. Usually, for a little less than a week after the change the oil is so clean it's almost difficult to read the level on the dipstick. This time it just fogged up and turned charcoal gray the same day it was changed with less than an hour drive time. Anyhow, I will be dropping the pan to get the front cover off anyway.
NothinYet,
The smoking just started this weekend. This is more smoke than I've seen from the tailpipes... Also the heads where resurfaced, checked for cracks, magnafluxed, valve job and new valve guide seals. It's steadily pouring out of the exhaust and looks very dense. I'm no expert but I'd think that if the rings were ravaged that badly, it'd run a little rough and have drivability issues. Despite the tapping and the smoking, this car runs great. Is it possible that it could be oil seals in the turbo?
I'm not convinced the tapping and smoking are related issues I'm leaning towards the possibility that my turbo is starting to leak oil into the exhaust
Thank you for your input.
You know... now that I think about it, the bad turbo could be putting some dirty "carboned up" filth into your engine.
If your oil can get into your turbo and into your exhaust, then im sure some of the carbon and dirty exhaust can get into your oil...
just a thought... you may really want to give your turbo a good inspection.
If your oil can get into your turbo and into your exhaust, then im sure some of the carbon and dirty exhaust can get into your oil...
just a thought... you may really want to give your turbo a good inspection.
Well it's all gotta come off anyway to do a retorque and replace the timing chain. The shaftplay seemed fine when I put it the turbo back on. I really hope it's the turbo causing the smoke. It won't be a big loss since it's a used $300 eBay TE-60.
Where can I get a good timing chain set and tensioner? I'd like to get a double roller.
Where can I get a good timing chain set and tensioner? I'd like to get a double roller.
It's been a while...
Ok... Due to work and the winter cold I haven't been working on the car much. I did remove the oil pan and front cover. It looks like my timing chain is good. There isn't any noticable wear and the tensioner looks fine as well. I haven't had time to take the oil pump apart yet but I suspect it is the problem. I tried rotating the pump shaft from the inner side of the front cover and I can feel it catching once every rotation.
Shouldn't it rotate smoothly?
When I get a chance to pull it apart, I expect to see some damage to the cover/gears... Under the the oil pan I found small pieces of metal stuck in my oil pickup which I suspect is from the pump. I think this is probably the cause of the low pressure I was having before.
My friend recommended removing the maincaps to check the bearings for wear.
Is there any problems doing this? How many ft/lbs do I torque the main caps to? Do I need to use a thread locker?
If everything looks good I'm considering installing a hydraulic roller cam setup (while it's apart) and a front cover with a built in HV oil from Fullthrottlespeed.com But there are lots of "ifs" right now and that's a bit further down the road.
Luke
Ok... Due to work and the winter cold I haven't been working on the car much. I did remove the oil pan and front cover. It looks like my timing chain is good. There isn't any noticable wear and the tensioner looks fine as well. I haven't had time to take the oil pump apart yet but I suspect it is the problem. I tried rotating the pump shaft from the inner side of the front cover and I can feel it catching once every rotation.
Shouldn't it rotate smoothly?
When I get a chance to pull it apart, I expect to see some damage to the cover/gears... Under the the oil pan I found small pieces of metal stuck in my oil pickup which I suspect is from the pump. I think this is probably the cause of the low pressure I was having before.
My friend recommended removing the maincaps to check the bearings for wear.
Is there any problems doing this? How many ft/lbs do I torque the main caps to? Do I need to use a thread locker?
If everything looks good I'm considering installing a hydraulic roller cam setup (while it's apart) and a front cover with a built in HV oil from Fullthrottlespeed.com But there are lots of "ifs" right now and that's a bit further down the road.
Luke
chrisgarrett
Registered Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2004
Here's a torque spec. sheet. Main caps are 100 ft lbs. Torque them down in increments from side to side.
Bolt Torque Explained
Bolt Torque Explained
Thanks
Suspicions confirmed...
A little while back I pulled the #3 Main cap to inspect the bearing. It doesn't look bad it feels smooth but when you run your finger accross it you can feel that it has slight groves. More importantly, the crank is perfectly smooth and looks great. I had a friend who's more experienced with engines take a look. He told me the bearing wear looks normal, not perfect, but predictable for an engine with 115,000+ miles on it. He said I could change the bearings with the engine in the car if I wanted to.
I took the oil pump apart and see that the front cover has some damage on the walls of the pump gear housing. It must have been damaged from residual headgasket material getting into the pump... I'm guessing that threw the clearences out of spec. That, plus debris caked on my pickup screen must be responsible from my slightly lower oil pressure problem I was having when the car was hot...
Do you guys think this bearing looks ok?
Should I replace the crank and rod bearings to be safe?
Thanks,
Luke
A little while back I pulled the #3 Main cap to inspect the bearing. It doesn't look bad it feels smooth but when you run your finger accross it you can feel that it has slight groves. More importantly, the crank is perfectly smooth and looks great. I had a friend who's more experienced with engines take a look. He told me the bearing wear looks normal, not perfect, but predictable for an engine with 115,000+ miles on it. He said I could change the bearings with the engine in the car if I wanted to.
I took the oil pump apart and see that the front cover has some damage on the walls of the pump gear housing. It must have been damaged from residual headgasket material getting into the pump... I'm guessing that threw the clearences out of spec. That, plus debris caked on my pickup screen must be responsible from my slightly lower oil pressure problem I was having when the car was hot...
Do you guys think this bearing looks ok?
Should I replace the crank and rod bearings to be safe?
Thanks,
Luke
