Looking for experienced opinions

19BGN86

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Today is the last day I'm going to 'have' to rely on my GN for daily driver transportation.... seems like I may have a headgasket failing me..... she does some wonky things after driving for long distances... bubbling resivoir, what looks to oil in the radiator, and she just goes flat in the higher RPMs.... all this in part due to, (what I believe was bad Sunoco gas), some HORRIBLE audible spark-knock... It happened about 40 miles from when I filled up.... bought some high dollar octane booster and put in, and no such detonation that I could hear after that...... but I think the damage was done.....

On my list of things to do when I take her off the road:

Headgasket #RJC-HG-035 (is this a good quality gasket kit?)

Valve Spring (would like a suggestion on part numbers)

Powerlogger and Laptop

Bigger injectors, fuel pump, hot wire kit....

What else would any of you wonderful members suggest me doing while I'm in there....
 
Your choices are sound upgrades but ..... You need to pull the pan and make sure your bearings are ok if coolant has entered the motor! New timing chain? How many miles on the motor? You will want to have heads checked! Possibly a valve job with the new springs?
 
all this in part due to, (what I believe was bad Sunoco gas), some HORRIBLE audible spark-knock...
car should have no knock.that can be achieved by keeping the boost and timing lower on 93,race gas,or alky injection.
 
After poking around last night, getting myself acquainted with all the wiring routing, and sensor locations, I found something quite disturbing.... if I've read everything correctly, the knock sensor is at the rear of the engine, below the coil pack, right?

At some point, the PO must have snipped the wire going to it, because it has been cut, and I cannot find where it was cut loose from the harness........

I have a basic idea of why someone would have thought to do this but overall, WTF were they thinking???
 
You need to open the wire loom leading to the ESC module, I believe it is a black or dark blue wire. It should be very close to where it was cut. Valve springs will depend on you goals, I would wait to see how much damage has been done and where it leads you.
 
You need to open the wire loom leading to the ESC module, I believe it is a black or dark blue wire. It should be very close to where it was cut. Valve springs will depend on you goals, I would wait to see how much damage has been done and where it leads you.


Indeed....
I always get sound advice on this forum. That's why I love it here
 
Stock flat tappet cam?
Comp 980s are the go to part for most people.
I always ran 981s they are a little stiffer
With a roller cam now I run 941s
 
I have a basic idea of why someone would have thought to do this but overall, WTF were they thinking???
i will say i have seen those disconnect the knock sensor when racing the car with race fuel to eliminate timing retard they were getting from the drivetrain,assuming it was false:eek:
 
Stock flat tappet cam?
Comp 980s are the go to part for most people.
I always ran 981s they are a little stiffer
With a roller cam now I run 941s


I'm assuming it's a flat tappet, but I'm not sure if it's a stock grind as the car has a pretty mild lope, and doesn't even out until about 1/4 throttle...
 
Personally I would pull it if your doing the head gasket. Inspect everything it's a lot simpler with the engine on the stand you gotta drop the pan anyways to clean the graphite out of the oil pickup.
 
When you run that hotwire kit , run a 10 gauge ground wire from the battery with the 10 gauge power wire that comes from the alternator . This will help eliminate these fuel pump ground issues that have been popping up lately .
 
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