Loc-Wire retorque?

[GTEATER]

just put a set of 1007 HGs on with a pack of seal tabs. The head studs were torqued to the sequence recomended by Felpro. The inner stud were torqued to 90# and outter to 85#.

Is there a need to retorque after a heat cycle? TTA hEADERS are a huge pain to remove.

What would the negative effect be of using factory GM torque sequence on the locwires?

 

[Louie L.]

Wow i was told 75 upper and 65 lowers. In my opinion i would retorque. I had a gasket failure with 1007s and it was on the bolts i couldnt reach to retorque, rear most lower by AC. Refinished heads and new gaskets and i will retorque, all the way this time.

 

[Mac in SD]

Richard Lee told me I could get away with torquing, let 'em sit for a day or two to take a set, then retorque. I know it's not optimum, but mine's been together for 5 years, now.

 

[Louie L.]

I follwed the Champion procedure which states to retorque after loosening each individual bolt after waiting at least 15 mins. They prefer you wait over night which is what i did. Now that i remeber the torque number which are substancially lower than the above are Champions numbers.Perhaps the lower numbers are to keep the cracking to a minimum.

 

[NCTTA]

I used head stud which will take more torque than the bolts. I think the torque # are more directly related to the fastener and block threads not the head?

What is the theory in letting them sit and retorque? It seems a heat cycle would be best?

 

[Mac in SD]

Originally posted by NCTTA
What is the theory in letting them sit and retorque? It seems a heat cycle would be best?

Heat cycle is best, no doubt. "Sit and retorque" is just a way to avoid a hot re-torque in the car. Not the best, but better than nothin'. (Cast iron heads shold be re-torqued hot, while aluminums get a cold re-torque.) Unless you can pull a motor REAL fast, you'd have to re-torque in the car, which leads to questionable torque values on hard-to-reach nuts or bolts. And it's a PITA, right?