Lifters ticking and oil light on when i idle

[Cbring]

Oil is new, 6 qts. in the stock pan.My plunger in my oil pump stuck and i removed oil pump housing and got it out, I put in a new one and repacked the pump and started it and got 65-70 psi. Then when it warms up i get 12-15 psi at idle, and it goes up and down due to rpm level as well. Lifters dont tick during higher oil pressure but do when i decrease rpm. Do i need one of the bigger springs that came with my kit? Or is it my pump housing or plunger again?

 

[87GNSteve]

When you say plunger do you mean the pressure relief?

 

[Cbring]

metal valve inserted in the side of the pump with spring and hollow bolt

 

[mikestertwo]

The spring has no effect at low pressure. It only sets the high pressure. 12-15 pounds is a little low but the oil light should not be on. Is this a stock motor? How many miles? What was the oil pressure before you had this problem with the pump? Is this a stock pump or a high volume pump?

 

[Cbring]

Things done to motor:
Comp cams
*Camshaft-212/212
*Lifters
*Pushrods
*Double roller timing chain
*Valve locks
*Valve spring retainers
Water pump
Chromoly piston rings
Speed pro .30 forged pistons
Rods reconditioned turned .10
Crankshaft reconditioned turned .10*
Speed pro bearings
Oil pressure switch
Fan switch
Coolant temp sensor
Fel-pro gaskets full set*
Fel-pro rear main gaskets
Fel-pro valley pan gasket
Injector o-rings
Rjc power plate
Billet adjustable fuel regulator*
Inline fuel pressure gauge
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Timing cover
High volume oil pump
A/C accumulator
A/C o-rings
Thermostat
Mr gasket radiator gauge cap*Knock sensor
Crankshaft sensor
Silicone Intercooler hoses
T-bolt Intercooler clamps
Engine torque strap*
Heater core
A/C evaporator core
A/C orifice tube
R12 retrofitted to R134
Optima battery
Starter
Camshaft position sensor * * * *Billet Breather/ oil fill
Throttle position sensor
Idle air control valve
Mass air flow sensor
Alternator*
GM battery hold down*
Air Charge Sensor
Windshield Washer reservoir
Antifreeze reservoir
New tranny filter/gasket/fluid
New A/C compressor
Turbo rebuilt-360 thrust bearing and step gap piston ring upgrade

 

[Cbring]

Oil pressure was the same and there is only 800 miles on motor. Hi volume melling pump stock oil pump housing.

 

[Cbring]

So 140,000 on pump housing.

 

[WS6]

I'm a pessimist... but if you have the previous oil filter I'd cut it open and look for metal.

 

[gossamer]

Oil pressure sounds a little low... What are the clearances on your main & rod bearings? What type and weight oil are you using? You list "oil pressure switch" in your things done to motor list. Does that mean you replaced the original switch with a stock replacement switch?

 

[Clark6]

Also what type of oil filter are you using?

 

[Cbring]

Don't know clearances. Oil is non detergent sae30. Napa oil filter. New oil pressure switch 800 miles ago. I believe all my problem is surrounding the oil pump or timing cover housing. I changed the plunger and it ran perfect. Then it started again.

 

[1fast6]

my oil pressure is 12# at idle running 20/50 and 100 degrees outside

 

[Nick Micale]

After reading this thread a few times, I would try a simple, inexpensive attempt for a possible fix, or at least to try to pinpoint the problem.

Just add a bottle of STP additive to the oil and see if there is any change in oil pressure or sound?

No harm can be done as it is a viscosity improver and it does also contain ZDDP.

My concern is the high volume kit might be an issue. We never use them, and still have more than adequate oil pressure and flow even for low 9 sec. stock block builds.

 

[its2qik]

After reading this thread a few times, I would try a simple, inexpensive attempt for a possible fix, or at least to try to pinpoint the problem.

Just add a bottle of STP additive to the oil and see if there is any change in oil pressure or sound?

No harm can be done as it is a viscosity improver and it does also contain ZDDP.

My concern is the high volume kit might be an issue. We never use them, and still have more than adequate oil pressure and flow even for low 9 sec. stock block builds.

Agree with this, but I would do one more thing as well... Drain that 30 weight oil, get yourself some Brad Penn 20w50 and see if this helps. I think it may. When it is hot out the heavier weights work well.

 

[Cbring]

I was told to run non detergent oil and zinc additive for proper cam break in. But I believe it is the high volume as well xuz after it warms up is when it starts ticking and then any time after. So my theory is the high volume oil pump working long enough to get car to temp sucks the pan dry faster than it fills it. I'm putting a new own replacement with a new thruster gear plate due to mine being scored. Will it work? I hope cause different springs didn't fix it.

 

[Cbring]

Alrighty then, I put a new standard volume pump in with a gear thrust plate and it's making 60-70 on cold start and 25 on idle. Let it run for 15 minutes with no noise at all. Shut it down and came back 10 minutes later and started it up and it starts knocking. Still got 25 psi. What could it be?

 

[WS6]

Reads like you may have gained some clearence in the bearings....did you cut open an oil filter to check for metal??

I know the engine is new, but this forum is littered with new engines with wrecked bearings threads, and I know that's something nobody wants to hear either...but....

 

[Raist103]

Sounds like bearings to me

 

[Cbring]

If it was bearings, wouldn't it be a constant tick? It only ticks after warming up and then restarting it and only in idle. Give it over 1200 rpm's and no tick.

 

[ryan319]

Doesn't the oil light indicate that there is less than 5 lbs of pressure?

what kind of gauge are you using? Who built your front cover? If you, did you set the clearance clarence?

And did I read it right that you're still running the cam break in oil after 800 miles?

For a hv pump to suck the pan dry you'd have to turn a lot of rpm for an extended period of time.