Let's see them Commie Guns !!!

Rivical

Growing Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Well, there's an AR thread. Surely there's alot of military collector's. Let's see what you've got from Warsaw Pact nations.

I'll start out with my Romanians.

PSL/FPK
RPK/AES-10B
M-44 Nagant

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I like that RPK. I will post when I get back stateside. I have an Arsenal SGL31. I will be sending it out to Rifle Dynamics for some work shortly.
 
Love my Commie guns...

Norinko NHM91:

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Mosin Nagaint 91/30 Sniper replica:

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And brand spanking new Commie hardware.... Saiga .410 shotgun (Home defense "go to" gun):

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BTW.. those floor tiles are 12in long... hehe.
 
If somehow it's just us three,:rolleyes: I guess I'll reply again...:D

What kinda work you lookin to get done on that SGL 31 Boostfreak?

And I'm diggin yer stuff Madcat!!! How's that x-sniper shoot? I got the M44 out for the first time last weekend and man that baby's SWEET!!! Super smooove, tight chamber, and accurate Well beyond my expectation!!! The Chicom AK variant in my coolection is a debanned, properly after I got it, MAK 90 sporter. I've thought to get a butthole stock and put it on it as delivered honestly, they're pretty comfortable to me! but I'd surely leave the RSA trigger group I installed intact!;) My favorite Chinese though is the Norinco 16" SKS-M. I can time alternating shots at a pair of swinging 4" plate targets @ 50yds til I run out bullets with that sweet machine!!!! Well, till my timing got off and I shot two holes in the stalk of the one and bent it up...

I'm finding it hard to believe that others here aren't taking advantage of cheap shooting very nice foreign rifles, and pistols...

Funny story! I picked up one of them CZ 83's that J&G's got and hadn't shot it with the new grips Charlie here inspired me to make in Maple to get rid of them cheapo looking fat Czech cop grips they come with til last weekend with a friend. First mag in, shootin head to head with my bud's 6" K-frame 38spl., strong arm 25yds @ 1" orange sticky's. And I'm shooting 105 RN's he made as a new load. I laid all but the last two and one other of the 13rd mag into or touching the orange! Awesome!!!! He'd dropped back to the table after his six, I figured to reload. But I finish and yell, "How bout That for grouping!!!" As I notice only one of his was in the orange, he yell's back "I'll show you Grouping!" "Going HOT!" I look over to see he's grabbed his turkey gun,,, BOOM, he blows my whole target to confetti!!!!!!!!! ROTFLMFAO!!!!!!!!!!! :D

Anybody checked out the VEPR's that J&G seems to have a whole selection of in person? I'm really keen on that 54R w/ 21" fluted brl !!! If they had a model with that barrel / sight arrangement and the PSL style furniture instead of that full stock that appears to eliminate the safety lever, I'd already be all over it!!!!
 
Sniper shoots... Ehhh, depends on the ammo.

With my surplus, Chinese steel core ammo... I'm in the kill zone at 200yds with an occasional flier (split casings are common with surplus.. LOL), nothing to jump up and down about. With new, factory rounds... It'll cut that down to 3in.

I kick myself for getting rid of the Norinkos factory furniture.. but, I can't hate myself once I look at it. This is, after all, how it was meant to be... LOL.

That .410 is BY FAR my favorite gun I have.... I can dump all 15rds in the mag as quick as I can pull the trigger, and never take it off target, red dot is out to 50yds, laser is for 30ft (close quarters).. target acquisition is outrageous . That thing with those steel casing slugs is devastating. Only mod I'd ever make, is if I found a rifled barrel... then I'd hand load some .40 180gr copper jacketed sabots for a muzzle loader, and go play.

12ga is in the works next... with a 20rd drum mag... OMG will that ever be fun, I'll have to bring a spare pair of pants with me.
 
Yeah! The Norinco looks great as a redhead! If you want the oe style furniture, I looked at 4 buttstocks at the last gunshow and each was priced at $25. If you can't find em in your area, I could look at the next show in two more weeks if ya let me know whether ya want a blonde or a dirty blonde! I love just spending a morning walking around interesting equipment, and there aren't any swap meets or flea markets started up here for the year yet so I'll be there either way.

Far as that Nagant, garbage in, garbage out. I get mixed results with commie surplus too. But it sure is FUN! Next time out, I'll run the M44 out to 300 and see what happens. I don't expect miracles with irons tho. A few have told me the quicker gas release and tighter rifling rate of my shorter barrel makes it more accurate at a small sacrifice to range with the 54R round. Of course mine also appears to have been somebody's joy before mine as the action is really slick. Bolt chambers with a pinky pull. Not my experience with other Nagants that haven't already been tuned in. Still got mixed emotions about hacking into the original stock for a side mount scope and don't wanna mount it on top. The stock fits me so exceptionally well that I don't know that I wanna change it out either. Spose I'll start watching for a spare original stock.
 
Far as that Nagant, garbage in, garbage out. I get mixed results with commie surplus too. But it sure is FUN! Next time out, I'll run the M44 out to 300 and see what happens. I don't expect miracles with irons tho. A few have told me the quicker gas release and tighter rifling rate of my shorter barrel makes it more accurate at a small sacrifice to range with the 54R round. Of course mine also appears to have been somebody's joy before mine as the action is really slick. Bolt chambers with a pinky pull. Not my experience with other Nagants that haven't already been tuned in. Still got mixed emotions about hacking into the original stock for a side mount scope and don't wanna mount it on top. The stock fits me so exceptionally well that I don't know that I wanna change it out either. Spose I'll start watching for a spare original stock.

I'll keep you in mind, if I ever decide to get the furniture. It was Blonde, hell almost naked.. LOL.

Nagant is just good ole fun... I got lucky with mine, and the action is real smooth as well. Spent the money for the Huber adjustable trigger, and that REALLY smoothed up the pull and break.

You don't have to cut the factory stock, there are several aftermarket stocks for them... I have an ATI black synthetic one I'm farting around with, along with an adapted scope mount for my Barska 50x scope:

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Have to work on it some more, bolt binds in this stock... just need some more relief.. LOL.
 
I'm getting the barrel cut down and the flash hider pinned. The SGL is the 31-84 (metal triangle folder). I want to make the front a little shorter for maneuverability and a little lighter to bring the balance point a little farther back. I will probably stay with the 74 break. I am also dropping in a retainer plate and getting the trigger tuned. I could probably do everything myself besides the barrel, but since it will be there, why not? Also probably Duracoat it. I'm debating changing out the gas tube with an Ultimak m1-b, but I'm not completely sold on it. I don't know how I feel about having it clamped to the barrel. I wonder how it will effect accuracy. I have read it has improved some people's accuracy by reducing "barrel whip". The jury is still out for me. I don't want to hang a bunch of tacticool stuff off of an ak. I believe like most that they should be caveman simple. I just want to mount a light and a mini red dot in the most unobtrusive way possible.

Rifle dynamics also offers a gas block upgrade that looks kinda like an hk. It's supposed to be better, but I want the SGL to still look like an ak. Besides, the gas block on the SGL is the newer 90 degree style so I don't think I will see the gas port erosion problem that some of the 45 degree blocks experience over time.

Riv, how are you liking that 10B?
 
Boost, The 10B is my most accurate AKM rifle at any kind of distance and really isn't poorly balanced for a saw. But obviously it still suffers some of the problems they all have. A 24" barrel can only do so much to counter that whip. I like your ideas on that for yours, but one thing I've read is that the longer barrels have a reduced twist rate that could work against you when shortening one. I've seen shorter barrels for sale at reasonable prices here and there with proper twist rates for their length. Re-headspacing for a new barrel + the barrel wouldn't likely cost too much more than having one modified. Unless you're getting it recrowned before threading, I'm betting that buying the threader and then renting it out like others do would be a benefit! I've been meaning to buy one for forever now. I think the Ultimak's clamping is a sensible counter to the whip. Short of buying a Krebs with the redesigned FSB/trunnion gastube clamp, what else can you do? I've always been hesitant about the idea of mounting optics on a gas tube, or cover though after smoking a few handguards. I'd hate to toast something I've got more money in than the original rifle! So yeah, caveman simple! But having that as a heat sink on your gastube would probably be a great idea regardless of not using it's intent! The prices are lower than the combo guards that add no possible benefit to accuracy too. I had wanted to get a Texas top cover overrider rail with pop-up rear peep. Whatever those're called. But can't get onto their site anymore because my browser says they have a licensing problem. I just don't mess with being forewarned on the computer. I like forward mounts but until I get over the idea of torching my optics by putting them there on an AKM I figured that as the safest bet. I saw they were advertising one for the PSL too. I'm not fond of the sidemount on that PSL. I actually bent an aluminum sidemount for the 10B until it actually fit my scope without adjustment. That's gotta say something not too great about the prospective longevity of zero.
 
I hear you about putting optics on the gas tube. Last thing I want to do is smoke a sight that is more expensive than the rifle. I was looking at some of the rear sight replacement options as well. I know midwest industries just came out with one, but the reviews are so so. It seems meant more for bench shooting as it is likely to flop around during run and gun. It looks similar to what Larue made a few years ago. A company called Attero Arms is making a similar mount that has sparked my interest. It is a similar style to the other two but looks much more robust and the backup iron sights seem to be better made as well. I will probably go with this option once I do a little more research as I like the concept and it does very little to take away the aesthetics of the gun (if you can say an AK has aesthetics). I was going to put a T1 on but I think I will go with a mini like an RMR or Deltapoint.

I think the system you were talking about was the Texas Weapons System "Dog Leg" mount. People say it's the way to go if you want a picatinny rail. I see a lot of people use them. I think Krebs makes one two.

What kind of groups do you get out of the PSL? I have a pic somewhere of me downrange after a cordon and search. Didn't get the sniper but got the system. It was an SVD knock off. An Al Kadesih I believe. I always wanted to crank a few rounds out of that thing.
 
Not sure why I couldn't think of 'dog leg'! Yeah, not my preferred option, but looks like the way to go. I don't want to remove my rear sight without replacing it. Haven't found something I like yet. I saw a set-up that I can't find again for some reason. It was stupid expensive. But it was like the Midwest et al. front handguard aluminum cover, except that it also had an over rider that angled back over the topcover as well as the one over the gas tube.

I get group's from that PSL about what you'd expect from irons at range. That sideways mounted side scope that needs a secret decoder ring and some algebra to derive the settings just isn't my thing! That's why I bent a mount for the rpk. Once the scope's centered on the barrel it's alot easier to deal with.
 
But it was like the Midwest et al. front handguard aluminum cover, except that it also had an over rider that angled back over the topcover as well as the one over the gas tube.

Hmmm. Maybe the Mako Group AK rail (VFR-AK)? Sounds like what you mentioned and it is stupid expensive for an AK part.

I've been looking at the Parabellum Armament adaptive rail system. Probably not as good as the dog leg, but I think it looks a bit cleaner. Like it was meant to be on the gun.
 
I'm not sure about that Parabellum. Maybe it's just that less than stellar reviews of similar products have left me jaded on the idea of a topcover rail mount maintaining zero. Maybe they've perfected the idea. That'd actually simplify everything! That VFR just might be what I was thinking of! I clicked away when I saw the price and couldn't find it again. I thought it looked a little different, but I haven't seen anything else like that. Looks like you could still field strip and clean w/o tools. That's the downfall of the dog leg as I see it. Funny, messed up, thing about it is that somebody like Midwest or UTG will probably add that rearward segment to their product, double the price of their current product, and it will still seem a bargain compared to the Mako unit's price point. I got a kick outa seeing they had it modelled on a WASR that cost's about the same as that rail system!
 
Madcat, My fiddling with the side mount I have which will fit my M44 appears that one only has to loosen the top elevation screw on it to remove the mount and scope from the base. Does it return to zero when reinstalling? Seems it should. Have you put any locktight or anything on the windage screw on the base to keep that from wandering? And if it wouldn't be too much trouble, it would seem you're the only person I know with one of those snipers. Could I get a close-up of the base on the receiver? I'm going to have to locate the base and drill and tap my receiver to mount the scope and would like something of a straight shot that I could scale locate it properly. The piece I got came with no template or anything to aid in the installation.
 
Madcat, My fiddling with the side mount I have which will fit my M44 appears that one only has to loosen the top elevation screw on it to remove the mount and scope from the base. Does it return to zero when reinstalling? Seems it should. Have you put any locktight or anything on the windage screw on the base to keep that from wandering? And if it wouldn't be too much trouble, it would seem you're the only person I know with one of those snipers. Could I get a close-up of the base on the receiver? I'm going to have to locate the base and drill and tap my receiver to mount the scope and would like something of a straight shot that I could scale locate it properly. The piece I got came with no template or anything to aid in the installation.

Haven't done enough testing with good ammo to prove RTZ with that mount. But from what I've read, it will. I know it's still in the same area when I go back to shoot it the next week with the surplus.

You're right, loosen top screw and it comes off. Elevation is set from bottom screw, windage is by filing away the spacer on the scope bracket. I wouldn't do that unless it's WAY off, and the adjustments in the scope move the center pin over too far one way.

Not an issue if you're using a modern scope, but my replica only moves the reticles... not the whole FOV. Using the Barska I don't even have to use the elevation or windage on the mount, do all adjustments with the scope.

I'll get a good, head on pic, later tonight.
 
Here are some pics I already took from when I was making the adaptive mount.. don't laugh at the welds, I'm a novice using a cheap flux core welder..LOL. I've come a long way with it in the last 2 yrs though, and plan on re doing the mount... but it's working fine as is.

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What, are you kidding me Madcat? That's Freakin Awesome!!!! Developing new skills and making useful equipment with less than optimal equipment to get there... Man, that's how I've learned to make just about everything I've ever made! Oh, I could bore you for hours with stories...:eek::D

It's also great that you did that, cuz you'll know just what I'm asking! How tall is your mount from bottom, to bottom of scope, wo the base? The one I have is an old steel AK mount and sitting here with a tape measure, it's roughly 3-1/8" from bottom to inside the ring, wo base. I haven't had a 50mm scope on it yet, but I think it's a little too tall. I was thinking to machine out the verticle center, horizontally, going in half way from one side below the centerline and half way from the other above it, then slide the pieces together and drill and tap them. It's made of 1/4" hardened steel, I dont think it would be a problem to do it that way, to lower the scope down to the rifle if I need to.

Your pics show me pretty well what I needed to see before doing it. Thanx Man!!! One thing I noticed was that bcause mines an AK mount, it has offest mounting holes for the base that I'll have to address first so I can drill the receiver in a straight line along it's side. I'm especially grateful for the close-up showing the original stock's cutout. I am so comfortable with this stock, that I really don't see myself changing it out. So, it'll be the only M44 sniper. If the wood doesn't look hacked up, I can live with that! You should really try some good ammo thru yours! Man it sure makes for a different day when you're not just plinking to blow off steam with these things! I can't wait to scope this thing! Thanx Again!
 
Riv,

I tried, but I can't seem to find the custom mount I did. I'll have to look in my shed for it Saturday. I may have put it with the ATI stock. OEM is 1.8in from bottom of mount to bottom of ring. There's about a sixteenth of an inch from the bottom of the scope mount, to the bottom of the base on the receiver.

I'm actually bothered that I can't find it. I may have to make another if I can't find it.
 
One thing I noticed was that bcause mines an AK mount, it has offest mounting holes for the base that I'll have to address first so I can drill the receiver in a straight line along it's side.
I'll warn you ahead of time that the reciver will be really hard unless it chinese made. Make a jig out of 3/8" (or thicker) plate that you can harden. Kinda like angle iron but it's got to be perfectly square before you weld the 2 pieces together. We did that on the snipers we built years ago. Make sure you've got the right bit and tap to get the holes done for the screws and drill the jig exactly where you want it, the harden it. We used an AR15 barrel jaws in a vice to hold the top of the reciever and the jig on the bottom to hold it in the vice. Then we just drilled the holes based on the jig and tapped them.
 
Excellent! That's the idea I was trying to work out right there! You guys are always so helpful with your been there done that's!;)
 
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