Leaking axle

NEWCHAPTER

Need Speed
Joined
Jun 8, 2003
Pulled off the rear wheels to replace the original shocks with bilstein's . decided to check the brakes while off and took off the pass side and it was all wet from the center out....is it the bearing or what? how hard or much to fix.
 
I'd say it's your wheel cylinder. Here is what they look like on the back of your wheel where the brake line goes in.
Some of these brake lines are hard to undo even with a fuel line wrench that you'll end up rounding the nut, but since it's shot it doesn't matter. But, they still may be hard to undo. I had to take my Z to the local garage and they had to take a touch to the nut until it was cherry red, then move the wrench back and forth to break it free. If the brake fluid has been on there long then your pads will need to be replaced. You can try and wash them out is hot water, but first take brake clean to the pads unless they need replacing too.

http://i11.ebayimg.com/01/i/03/71/4f/27_1_b.JPG
 
I would say it is your bearing seals that are dry/gone. I think AtR sells a kit (both bearings & seals). I saw them in my old catalog. I think you have to pull the axles to replace. :(
 
If it ends up being the axle seals, you have to pull the axles to get to them. Once you drain the pumpkin, it's not that tough to get the c-clips off and pull the axles out.

It's MUCH easier than rebuilding the posi unit! Make sure you clean everything up well and inspect the axles, especiallly if you go to the track, and run slicks, etc..

Billy
Montgomery Village, MD
 
USUALLY WHEN THE SEAL GOES ITS TELLING YOU THE BEARING HAS EXCESS PLAY AND WORE IT OUT.
GRAB THE AXLE FLANGE AND TRY TO MOVE IT UP AND DOWN AND LEFT RIGHT AND SEE IF IT FEELS LIKE IT HAS PLAY.
I WOULD RECCOMEND CHANGING IT JUST TO BE SAFE, ONCE YOU GET THE AXLE OUT AND PULL THE SEAL ,THE BEARING IS NOT MUCH MORE WORK TO CHANGE AND ITS PROBABLY ONLY ABOUT 20 BUCKS MORE.
 
does the bearing have to be pressed in. i do not have alot of experience with the axles and differentials.
 
GETTING IT OUT IS THE HARD PART, YOU NEED A SLIDE HAMMER WITH A HOOK END OR SOMETHING HOME MADE THAT WILL HOOK IT AND YOU CAN HIT IT TO WORK IT OUT. TO GET IT IN I USUALLY JUST USE THE OLD BEARING AGAINST THE NEW ONE AND CAREFULLY TAP IT IN WITH A HAMMER EVENLY AROUND THE PERIMITER UNTIL IT SEATS ALL THE WAY THEN SAME WITH SEAL.
AND DO YOURSELF A FAVOR, WHEN YOU PUT THE CROSSSHAFT BACK IN, PUT A LITTLE LOCK TITE ON THE LITTLE BOLT THAT HOLDS IT IN,AFTER YOU CLEAN IT GOOD OF COURSE.
 
After proceding to tear my rearend down to install new gears, I realized the same lube covering everything behind the drums. It would be wise to replace both outer bearings and seals, as stated above, while your apart. When I loosened the bolt that holds the cross-shaft in, it snapped. It happened to be a Sunday, so I couldn't find one till' Monday. The counter guy at NAPA where I found the pin(Bolt) said I should replace that bolt, even if it wouldn't have broke, because it is only threaded at the top near the head and has about a half inch shoulder twords the bottom, which actually holds the cross-shaft. The threads tighten in the carier. It's a goofy looking bolt.

I even baught the install kit and it didn't come with that bolt. I doubt it can be baught with any ring & pinion install kit.
 
Sounds like the common seal failure. It is not an uncommon thing. When you pull the keeper pin to get the C clips out, replace the pin. They have a habit of getting crystalized and will break if you reuse it. Best to just replace it with everything else when you have it apart. They aren't that expensive. Knowing from experience how tough it can be at times to remove one that breaks off when you are removing it, it is cheap insurance.

Mark
 
is there anything else i should change out while i have it apart so i dont have to do it again? and where do i get the seal from?
 
Practically any parts store will have it. If you have a posi in it, make sure you add posi additive to the diff when you refill it.
 
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