Ladder Bars vs. 4-Link (Long)

O

OneFastT

New Member
Joined
May 26, 2001
Looking for pictures of a car with a ladder bar setup. My car is being backhalved and I would like to see some pics of what this looked like on a Buick. I have an 87 T. This a mid to low 8 second car. I have a full cage, Ford 9", coil over shocks and mini-tubs already installed. The problem is all this equipment was installed while the frame was bent and can't be fixed without removing it all. I have to decide on ladder bars or a 4-link.

The car is mostly track driven with VERY limited street time. I have heard pro/cons to both setup's and would like some additional input and pictures if available.

Ladder bars seem to be more attractive because of the ease of adjustability. It seems like a no brainer and sounds easier to get down the track.

Thanks,
Jason
 
Lo eights??

Going lo 8's w/ a ladder bar car can get real exciting... Ask Kent Rudbeck..
I'd suggest w/ enuf power to go that quik, the 4 link is the way to go.

A way to confirm the practicality of 4 links is look at the comp elim cars and some fast SS cars.. Not many w/ ladder bars....

Back to putting the Moroso springs on....:mad: :mad:
 
Jason: Did Church Fabrication do the work on your car? I agree with Chuck. At those speeds and with the HP, go with a good 4 link setup.

John
 
There are two cars that I know of going 7.5X on a true 10.5 tire and ladder bars. One was built by skinny kid race cars the other by straight line. The 4 link does offer more adjustment but there are to many cars in the 7.9 range and quicker on ladder bars and small tires to say it can't be done. Use a good chassis shop that has people running your goal and faster and you should be aliright. Depending on where you are located and how far you will travel I could make some recommendations. I would not build a Pro Outlaw car with ladder bars but would consider it on a 10.5 Outlaw car and slower depending on what classes you need to fit in.
 
Re: Lo eights??

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
Back to putting the Moroso springs on....:mad: :mad:
Click to expand...


Just becareful ther Chuck... Thats one of them sucker almost took my finger off....

Back under my boost controller...;)
 
Re: Re: Lo eights??

Originally posted by Louie L.
Just becareful ther Chuck... Thats one of them sucker almost took my finger off....

Back under my boost controller...;)
Click to expand...
Got those lil suckers in and buttoned up, and lost not one finger doing it!!

John W. said:
The 4 link does offer more adjustment but there are to many cars in the 7.9 range and quicker on ladder bars and small tires to say it can't be done.

Don't think any of the previous posts said it can't be done..:D
 
i am building a twin turbo sbc car, looking for 7's so i went with the 4 link, bought the S@W kit, we didn't use it exactly how they intended, made it a little more race than street, but i was very happy withhoe it turned out, these are older pictures, but they will give you an idea of what your in for, if you have any questions i would be happy to anwser them.
grant

http://www.grantfarmerracing.com//Picturepagelinks
 
John,

I really liked your old car. Who ended up picking it up?
I am running XP and Explorer 6.0 and can not view your pictures.
 
Not my house ;)

Thats my folk's house, mine is a shante 20 miles west w/ out adequate garage space.

I sold the black car to guy up in the panhandle (TX), haven't heard from him since. I am curious to know how they are coming with it.
 
Originally posted by opeltwinturbo
Jason: Did Church Fabrication do the work on your car? I agree with Chuck. At those speeds and with the HP, go with a good 4 link setup.

John
Click to expand...

John,

Yes, Church Fabrication did the original set-up. I have decided to go with the 4-link and have been talking to Independant Engineering, which is a local shop here, about doing the work. It would be a full backhalf with Chassis Works equipment. It would include:

- A Eliminator II 4-Link
- 2x3 box rear frame kit
- Fab 9 rear end housing and more
- 24x40 tubs

The only thing that will be re-used form the original setup is the coil overs, center section of the rearend and wheelie bars. Needless to say I am a little disappointed to be going through all this again. Not to mention the cost factor...OUCH.

On another note...I have seen you many times at Norwalk. That must be a heck of a ride with that small of a wheel base. I even looked at your car, mainly the motor, for ideas on how to set up my Stage 2.

Anyway, thanks for your advise. Any more thoughts or opinions you want to throw my way are welcome.

Hope to see you at Norwalk in the Spring.

Thanks,
Jason
 
Originally posted by John Wilde
There are two cars that I know of going 7.5X on a true 10.5 tire and ladder bars. One was built by skinny kid race cars the other by straight line. The 4 link does offer more adjustment but there are to many cars in the 7.9 range and quicker on ladder bars and small tires to say it can't be done. Use a good chassis shop that has people running your goal and faster and you should be aliright. Depending on where you are located and how far you will travel I could make some recommendations. I would not build a Pro Outlaw car with ladder bars but would consider it on a 10.5 Outlaw car and slower depending on what classes you need to fit in.
Click to expand...

John,
Thanks for the respone. I am in Cleveland, OH. Please give me your recommendations on any chassis shops you would recommend. If you see my previous post you'll see that I have decided to backhalf the car. I would liek to talk to some different shops. If nothing else atleast I might be abe to get some other prices.

Thanks,
Jason
 
Jason,

I will get more information for you in the morning.
Please look into not doing a box frame back half.
With the new chassis specs it will be a lot harder
to meet the faster ones. You should have a cromoly
round tube back half done. You do not need to go
full 25.2 spec now but you should start with something
that can be added to when you want to go faster.
YOU WILL WANT TO GO FASTER!
 
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