Knock Sensor

an inch or 2 above the oil pan around the center of the block one on the front bank and one on the rear

knock issues ?
 
Well really i'm trying to figure out why my car is so slow so im just troubleshooting, i might hook up a knock gauge to see whats happening. My brother has a regal that is the same year as my Olds LSS and his sucks the doors off of mine, both are stock. The transmount broke and might be causing a false knock, possibly? If i'm even heading in the right direction let me know. And would it matter which knock sensor wire I tapped into to hook up a gauge?
 
dont know about hooking a guage up to the sensor , typically just scan for knock with a scanner through the obd2 port

as for performance it all starts with the basics:

premium fuel only

colder copper core plugs ( autolite 605or autolite 104)

180* thermostat with a couple small holes drilled in it

fresh fuel filter

fresh gm wires , clean coil posts

seafoam treatment via the vac port below the sc snout so as not to seafoam the sc rotors teflon coating

homemade intake with k&N cone filter on 4" tubing or piping with most direct flow possible and access to ambient air in fenderwell ,behind headlight etc...

after that would be exhaust mods then a pulley drop but if you are going to drop pulleys get a scanner first so you know what is going on.

any mods on the regal ? weight is not that different for the lss so if he has no mods you will turn the tables on him easily
 
The regal is stock. Tell me more about the scanner, does it show boost also(no boost guage on the LSS). And what do you think about the DHP reprogrammed PCM?
 
The regal is stock. Tell me more about the scanner, does it show boost also(no boost guage on the LSS). And what do you think about the DHP reprogrammed PCM?

yes any decent scanner will show boost

whether dhp/zzp/overkill or any other off the shelf pcm tune it will only be able to help the most basic things like remove speed limiter , raise shift points , remove some torque management ( I remove it all) remove codes if you have removed cat ,egr, etc..

without scan data they have no idea what your car is really doing so any fueling or timing changes they make could be going the right way or the wrong way.

If you dont plan on buying a tuner ( $500 & up) at this point I would suggest joining the regal forum and finding someone within driving distance of you that could scan & tune your car in person that will be much better than off the shelf and probably wont cost you that much more. Of course to really get the tune right takes the type of time only the owner of the car is typically willing to put into it and will require a wideband 02 sensor to validate fueling changes
 
Yea i better find somebody that does have a scanner and tuner. And just a specific question, could the broken transmount be causing a false knock, and if so, can my the computer retard the timing alot, and can it reduce the boost somehow?
 
Yea i better find somebody that does have a scanner and tuner. And just a specific question, could the broken transmount be causing a false knock, and if so, can my the computer retard the timing alot, and can it reduce the boost somehow?

a trans mount can definately cause false knock which will retard timing (KR=knock retard) computer has the ability to reduce boost but I dont believe it will for this just pull timing
 
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