I just finished doing the rear main on my car, and I have some pointers for those of you who haven't done it yet. It might save you some grief/damage.
You must disconnect/move:
1. The fuel hoses. They aren't long enough when you jack the motor up. Depressurize the system at the test port before loosening. Also, a tip: open the gas cap first to vent any pressure in the tank, otherwise the pressure will force out fuel from the lines when you disconnect them... I had almost a quart come out until I realized that the pressure in the tank was the problem. Opened the cap and the flow stopped.
2. Pop the wire guide on the DS valvecover off so it can slide forwards when you jack the motor up, or else it will smash itself against the wiper motor. It's easier to remove the two 10mm nuts and lift the guide off the studs rather than pulling the steel guide off the valvecover-- it's a PAIN to get back on. Just loosen the juts and lift the guide off leaving the steel attachment on the grooves on the valvecover.
3. Loosen/move the EGR solenoid bracket and sparkplug wire loom clip on the DS valve cover, or it will gouge into the wiper motor cover when you jack the motor up. My wiper motor cover now has a nice slice in it from the bracket... oops.
4. Remove the crossover pipe and inspection cover (duh)
5. You don't have to remove the starter, but it makes things MUCH eaiser with it out of the way. It only takes 5 minutes to remove, and it will save you grief when you try to snake the oil pan off (and on) around the pickup.
6. Remove the nuts and move the little plastic wiring gutter at the front of the motor so it doesn't snag on the oil pan.
7. You need to unbolt your intercooler shroud from the intercooler, or when you jack the motor up you'll bend the crap out of it. I actually removed my intercooler so the shround was in no way connected to the motor... only took 1/2 hour extra, and the added room and light up front when the intercooler is out is helpful.
Remove the motor mount bolts and jack the motor up... I used a piece of 1" plywood on my jack and jacked the motor up under the oil pan. The piece of wood was bigger than the pan to distribute the load. To hold the motor up I slid 2" x 3" blocks of wood between the motor mount and frame perch then set it down and removed the jack A 1" thickness of wood between the mount and the perch will hold the motor high enough to get the pan of easily.
For the actual installation... use the correct sealant on the block to cap surface. Air can't get in there, so RTV won't cure. You need an anerobic sealant, which is what is called out in the GM shop manual. The book calls out #1052756, an anerobic sealer, which crossreferences to Permatex Anerobic Gasket Maker. (thanks to the guy at the parts counter at my local dealership for looking that up.) You'll also want to get the Surface Prep and Accelerator for the sealant... they're not cheap-- about $12 for the sealant and $15 for the primer.
I *did* use the side seals included with the Fel-Pro rear main (not RTV), and so far, so good. Here was my procedure:
1. Apply grease to the new rear main (break in lubrication for it)
2. Roll 1/2 of the rear main into the motor (clocked 1/4" from lining up with the seam) and put the other half of the seal in the cap... make sure you face it the right way!
3. Clean cap and block sealing surfaces with MEK and let dry
4. Apply surface prep/primer to block surfaces using a Q-tip.
5. Apply the anerobic sealant to the top and sides of the cap opposite the groove for the side seals. You only want a VERY thin smear of the stuff on the top of the cap, otherwise it will squish out when you tighten the cap and go places you don't want it to, like the bearing.
6. Apply a light coat of anerobic to all surfaces of the side seals and place into cap. Place the seals 1/8" or so ABOVE the machined surface of the cap. They'll be driven flush when you put the cap in, and better to have them start high and end flush than to start flush and get pushed down when you install the main.
7. Wipe a little fresh oil on the bearing, make sure it's clean one last time, then install the cap, and snug the bolts.
8. Push up firmly on the side seals to make sure they're seated, then lightly paint the pins for side seals with the anerobic sealant and drive them into place.
9. Torque the cap bolts.
10. Trim seals flush with cap/block surface.
That's it... I let it dry for 48 hours, then put the pan back on (torque to 89 in-lb), lower the motor back down, and put everything back together.
So far, not a single drip... and I hope that's how it stays!
You must disconnect/move:
1. The fuel hoses. They aren't long enough when you jack the motor up. Depressurize the system at the test port before loosening. Also, a tip: open the gas cap first to vent any pressure in the tank, otherwise the pressure will force out fuel from the lines when you disconnect them... I had almost a quart come out until I realized that the pressure in the tank was the problem. Opened the cap and the flow stopped.
2. Pop the wire guide on the DS valvecover off so it can slide forwards when you jack the motor up, or else it will smash itself against the wiper motor. It's easier to remove the two 10mm nuts and lift the guide off the studs rather than pulling the steel guide off the valvecover-- it's a PAIN to get back on. Just loosen the juts and lift the guide off leaving the steel attachment on the grooves on the valvecover.
3. Loosen/move the EGR solenoid bracket and sparkplug wire loom clip on the DS valve cover, or it will gouge into the wiper motor cover when you jack the motor up. My wiper motor cover now has a nice slice in it from the bracket... oops.
4. Remove the crossover pipe and inspection cover (duh)
5. You don't have to remove the starter, but it makes things MUCH eaiser with it out of the way. It only takes 5 minutes to remove, and it will save you grief when you try to snake the oil pan off (and on) around the pickup.
6. Remove the nuts and move the little plastic wiring gutter at the front of the motor so it doesn't snag on the oil pan.
7. You need to unbolt your intercooler shroud from the intercooler, or when you jack the motor up you'll bend the crap out of it. I actually removed my intercooler so the shround was in no way connected to the motor... only took 1/2 hour extra, and the added room and light up front when the intercooler is out is helpful.
Remove the motor mount bolts and jack the motor up... I used a piece of 1" plywood on my jack and jacked the motor up under the oil pan. The piece of wood was bigger than the pan to distribute the load. To hold the motor up I slid 2" x 3" blocks of wood between the motor mount and frame perch then set it down and removed the jack A 1" thickness of wood between the mount and the perch will hold the motor high enough to get the pan of easily.
For the actual installation... use the correct sealant on the block to cap surface. Air can't get in there, so RTV won't cure. You need an anerobic sealant, which is what is called out in the GM shop manual. The book calls out #1052756, an anerobic sealer, which crossreferences to Permatex Anerobic Gasket Maker. (thanks to the guy at the parts counter at my local dealership for looking that up.) You'll also want to get the Surface Prep and Accelerator for the sealant... they're not cheap-- about $12 for the sealant and $15 for the primer.
I *did* use the side seals included with the Fel-Pro rear main (not RTV), and so far, so good. Here was my procedure:
1. Apply grease to the new rear main (break in lubrication for it)
2. Roll 1/2 of the rear main into the motor (clocked 1/4" from lining up with the seam) and put the other half of the seal in the cap... make sure you face it the right way!
3. Clean cap and block sealing surfaces with MEK and let dry
4. Apply surface prep/primer to block surfaces using a Q-tip.
5. Apply the anerobic sealant to the top and sides of the cap opposite the groove for the side seals. You only want a VERY thin smear of the stuff on the top of the cap, otherwise it will squish out when you tighten the cap and go places you don't want it to, like the bearing.
6. Apply a light coat of anerobic to all surfaces of the side seals and place into cap. Place the seals 1/8" or so ABOVE the machined surface of the cap. They'll be driven flush when you put the cap in, and better to have them start high and end flush than to start flush and get pushed down when you install the main.
7. Wipe a little fresh oil on the bearing, make sure it's clean one last time, then install the cap, and snug the bolts.
8. Push up firmly on the side seals to make sure they're seated, then lightly paint the pins for side seals with the anerobic sealant and drive them into place.
9. Torque the cap bolts.
10. Trim seals flush with cap/block surface.
That's it... I let it dry for 48 hours, then put the pan back on (torque to 89 in-lb), lower the motor back down, and put everything back together.
So far, not a single drip... and I hope that's how it stays!