Is a 120V alternator sufficient for my mods and add-ons?

Tom87GN

YOU'RE MY BOY BLUE!!!!
Joined
May 29, 2001
Hi everyone. It has been A LONG TIME since I've been on this board, mainly because my GN has been quietly parked inside my garage for the past 3 years barely getting any love and attention from me (motorcycling has taken over my life along with 2 kids).

I know that this has been asked a billion times, but I just can't seem to find what I'm looking for when I use the search function on the various sites.

My alternator isn't keeping up again (or I've got a different electrical issue) and I am wondering if a stocker replacement 120A is truly sufficient for what I have done to my car. I am by far no expert on electrical systems, so I look to others who have the knowledge to assist if they can.

I have four (4) add-on gauges in the interior of the vehicle plus a scanmaster running at all times. 3 of the gauges are electrical, one is mechanical (boost). I rarely ever use the radio. I run an old-school alcohol injection kit (1st edition of SMC) that comes on full at 10 psi boost. I have a 340 walbro in the tank with a hot wire kit. I have an LT1 MAF with a translator plus. Other than that, I can't think of anything else electrically that I have done to the car over the years.

At night, with the headlights on (of course), I get the idiot light at full boost and while monitoring the voltage on my scanmaster, it starts out at 13.5V under light load and drops to 10.5V under full load. I'm fairly certain this contributes to some spark knock as well.

Should I be looking at getting my 120A alternator rebuilt to a higher voltage capacity or is it sufficient and maybe have a problem elsewhere?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read my issues.
 
120V would certainly spin the fuel pump fast

OK....point taken. I screwed up and indicated volts when I wanted to say amps, obviously. I corrected the body of the message, but can't correct the subject line. MY BAD.
 
I wont be a smartass like someone......aaahhhem......ALAN....LOL.

Couple of things could be the issue here. First thing I would do is verify the cables both negative and positive at battery, starter and alternator.
Also fusible links and starter are a common source of problems (loose, oily, failing, corrosion).
I have seen great gains when upgrading the little negative at the battery cable to inner fender to a extra large gauge (I ran #8 just because I had a short pc laying around).
The positive wire from the battery to alternator could be a problem due to age.
The field flash form the alternator goes through the volt light in the dash and the bulb wires at the base where it plugs into lamp socket can get corroded and cause issues.
You pull your alternator and get it checked also the will test them free at the chain parts stores tho its just a pass or fail.

Do a search as its been covered. Time to get a votmeter and start looking for issues.
 
I wont be a smartass like someone......aaahhhem......ALAN....LOL.

Sometimes I sit on a cone of icecream and tell what flavor it is.

Higher amp alternators don't hurt but if your wireing isn't up to snuff it can mask problems.
 
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