Injecting alchy Pre-intercooler

Turbo__Tim

One heck of a Tim!
Joined
May 25, 2001
Here is an idea that is worth looking at. Joritman and I have been discussing this in another thread (propane) And I didn't want to divert the thread off it's subject anymore so I'm transferring the thread to here.

Here is most of it:




joereitman
Junior Member

Registered: Sep 2002
Location:
Posts: 8

quote:
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Originally posted by Turbo__Tim
joereitman, Actually I tried injection with alchy (up-pipe) and didn't see any improvement to speak of in brief testing. I did get 1 more # of boost, but without actually timing this at the track, who knows if that was effective.

My plans are to inject 50-50 using about half size jets, pre-intercooler. You will cool the intercooler, no doubt about that at all.

It's worth a try, heck even if you only gain 25 HP. (2psi?) Also It's nice to have a sort of back up system should the propane fail.

I won't be doing mine until the spring. I'll post results then....Good Luck!
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Thanks Tim. I am also finding that the propane works much more effectively with some toluene in the tank (16-17% yesterday)- no suprise there, but also much better results than toluene alone, again no suprise. I will try with about 8-10% toluene and see if that will still let me run no knock.

But I need to address heat soak and I think 50/50 pre ic would do the trick, maybe with a 100 psi shurflo and an extra 250 psi propane solenoid laying on the workbench. I hope the propane solenoid holds up to the 50/50, I will probably let it soak in some ww fluid off and on for a week or so to ensure no corrosion. It is brass so I think it will be ok. Any thoughts?

I am considering a jet/nozzle from Mcmaster-carr. I will trigger the solenoid off the same hobbs that opens the propane solenoid, to keep things simple. The Impco has a low amp draw so 2 solenoids off the same wire should be fine I guess.

2 more psi would put me at 23psi, which is about the limit for stock dsm head bolts anyway.

thanks again.

Joe


My reply....

Joe I can't comment on the Solenoid, tho is seems that a 50-50 mix of isoprophol alchy should cause no harm....IMO

I've read 2 articles on pre-intercooler injection. In one a fellow on this board reported success and commented that he was able to spray a lot more alchy this way. (I suspect this is due to the finer atomization brought on from the mix beating it's way through the intercooler)

In the second article I found on the web the gains were substantial, and the guy said the intercooler was cool to the touch.

With your situation (combining the alchy and propane) I would try to use a windshield motor pump, and any old jet (like a windshield spray jet) that you could get next to nothing at a salvage yard. If that set-up squirts 4-6 ounces in 12 seconds you are in the ball park. If it squirts less, you may still be ok, because I don't think you are going to need very much spray to be effective along with the propane.

BTW liquid steel is fine for mounting the jet. Just a little is all you need, and easier to chisle off if things don't work out right.

As far as jets go, I would check with Brad at Aquamist (google search for tel#) Tho I am not sure the solenoid he has will not corrode with an alchy mix. The sure flow pump would work best with 1mm jet(s) and adding jets is really easy with the 'snap on' T connectors, using 10mm plastic line.

Aquamist reccomends injecting pure water only, which will not work in our cars, at the up-pipe, but may work pre-intercooler.

You may find that injecting pure water, in small, well atomized amounts, pre intercooler will work just fine.

Now you have some things to think about...:)
 
BTW be sure to use at least an ounce of Marvel Mystery Oil with each gallon of toulene. You will loose the fuel pump without it. (you don't to need to know how I know this..:))
 
Originally posted by Turbo__Tim

Intercoolers are AL.
Water Alky etc, can cause scaling, or corrosion.

If you turn the fluid into steam, then run it thur the I/C then some of it will condense, the you have water laying in the bottom of the intercooler.
 
I agree with bruce on this, you will have a gallon of alcohol/water mix in the bottom of the IC in no time. It will get caught along the surfaces of the IC core and condense and pool at the bottom, even at high PSI. Too much surface area IMO

By injecting it at the up pipe, you have the benefit of the intercooler cooling the charge, and then the alcohol cooling it further.
 
Good point guys! I can't dispute the fact that alchy will corrode the bare alum inside the intercooler. Wasn't thinking there! ;)



So alcy/water mix is out!

Let's say you only injected water. And lets say some of it will get caught up in the passages, and remained in the intercooler. That sounds reasonable, and very possible. (ok- probabble)

We are only talking a few ounces here, and as one continues to drive, wouldn't the ounce or two just be driven out of there? We are talking a living room full of air passing over it in a minute or two.

Warm air at that...

I blow-dry my hair in a minute, and it prolly only holds a half ounce of water. (Used to hold more, but when the 70's ended, half of my hair had fallen out from disco dancing. That dammed mirrored ball did it!!:))

Another thing I'm wondering about- I've dug up lots of underground cable line that has had the protective jacket damaged, and the water has gotten to, and corroded the alum. outer skin. Yet the above ground lines are bare alum., and never corrode unless they are near an ocean and are exposed to salt, just like the underground line. (salts in the ground)

Question: Does distilled water have no salt in it? If so, then I am going ahead with my pre-intercooler injection testing in the spring...

Hmmm, maybe I'll just go ahead and install a couple pet-cocks on the intercooler before I get started...:)

A couple of gallons!! Blacjbuick'87? You have been called the 'king of dramma' at least once in your life....

Admit it!! :)
 
I heard of someone doing this years ago and he ended up with a rotted out IC. I guess people are putting the nozzel in the up pipe for a good reason!

Nick
 
He should have used distilled water! In 15 years these cars have driven through, and sucked through ther intercooler (in the form of mist) a hundred thousand gallons of water, and most intercoolers are holding up just fine.

It's all what you put in there.

I can't believe that anyone would even consider putting alchy in their intercooler! ;)
 
Originally posted by Turbo__Tim
He should have used distilled water! In 15 years these cars have driven through, and sucked through ther intercooler (in the form of mist) a hundred thousand gallons of water, and most intercoolers are holding up just fine.

Difference between humidity and saturated air.
The humidity will always stay in a vapor form, that's not the problem, it's the condensation from aur being at 350dF be cooled to 120dF that is the problem.

Hundred thoudand gallons.
That would be about 3/4 of a gal per mile every mile, typically. That would be humid for even Alabama.
 
The "king of drama" said a gallon, not gallons. I based that statement on the experience of Mark Hueffman, whose intercooler accumulated approx a quart of alky mix when he did not have an anti-siphon valve, and the IC mounted nozzle was dripping under vacuum. Since his car could not manage to vaporize a few drops of mix at a time, I figure it would only take a couple of fills of the alky tank to accumulate a gallon.
All theory of course;)

How would you know anything was accumulating in the IC? Unless you took it off every weekend you would have no clue.

I dont think you will damage anything if you try your experiment, I would just keep an eye on these things.

My prediction is that you alky kit will be less effective if you inject pre-IC, and that you will not be able to run as much boost/timing as before. At least it will be interesting. Make sure you have some JB Weld to plug the hole in the neck when you are done:D
 
Originally posted by blackbuick87

How would you know anything was accumulating in the IC? Unless you took it off every weekend you would have no clue.


Well one answer might be just removing the Intercooler, and then using other stuff to cool the air.
With no Intercooler then you can add fluids pre turbo and not worry about it. Well within certain parameters

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/nointercooler.html

Hehehehehee
 
blackbuick87 Good you pointed out the need for an anti-siphoning valve. Not sure, but I believe that might not be a problem with the SMC Kit I'm currently using. I'll need to double check though...

Another thing I didn't consider is what to do about the top end lube (Klotz) that is in the water mix. That won't evaporate out of the intercooler. Maybe I could get away with just distilled water? We shall see.

Then there's Bruce....
:rolleyes: I think he can be found orbiting around Saturn these days..;)

Nobody but nobody deserves the title of 'Mad Scientist' more. :)

I spy a connector on the plenum. Hmmmm What are you not telling us Bruce? Propane going in there? Going to cool the 7th injector mist are you?

Oh boy, stay tuned folks, Bruce has something up his sleeve again! :)
 
Originally posted by Turbo__Tim

I spy a connector on the plenum. Hmmmm What are you not telling us Bruce? Propane going in there? Going to cool the 7th injector mist are you?

Oh boy, stay tuned folks, Bruce has something up his sleeve again!

That's just the MAT sensor.
I had it unplugged since I was using a TurboLink Boost Sensing Harness for a MAP timing and fuel correction based on actual boost.

Actually both sleeves....
 
Tim- thanks for starting this thread-lots of good info here. I will search some more and see what else I can find on the net. I think the IC will stay on the car Bruce. ;)

thanks

Joe
 
Some info I just found indicating pre IC may be ok:

"I spoke with Brad Schaeffer at Georges Imports (816-333-6582). He's a very knowledgeable guy when it comes to water injection. ...

3. He recommended going with a two stage system. This would require 2 solenoids and 2 pressure switches. The first would come on at something like 4 psi and drive a .4 mm nozzle, and the second would come on at a higher boost (15 psi) and drive an additional .4 mm nozzle. The first nozzle is mounted 3-5" from the throttle plate. The second is mounted way upstream. Either farther down on the throttle body, farther back on the UIC pipe, or or even before the intercooler. . ...He just makes sure to use alcohol-based windshield wiper fluid. He said the small amounts of detergents in the fluid have not caused him problems. " http://www.frii.com/~maphill/wi.html

Maybe the ww fluid has the less corrosive ethanol instead of the more corrosive methanol?

Thanks

Joe
 
Ethanol corrosiveness

Some info I found- I know a lot of this is old hat to some of y’all but please humor me. :) Bear in mind my goal is to remedy a heat soaking IC, along with the other benefits of Alky.

"Methanol is incompatible with several types of materials normally used in petroleum storage and transfer systems, including aluminum, magnesium, rubberized components, and some other types of gasket and sealing materials. Therefore it is necessary to take special precautions to ensure that methanol is transported or stored in containers and transfer lines that have been specifically selected for that purpose."
http://www.solardome.com/SolarDome22.html

"Ethanol, like methanol, will burn cooler than gasoline, and will allow you to increase your compression ratio when using it to replace gasoline. Most ethanol contains a denaturant like gasoline so that it is unfit to drink, but it is still much less toxic than either gasoline or methanol. Ethanol is also much less corrosive then methanol, which is important as well."
http://www.ethanol.org/racing/racing_on_ethanol.html

“Ethanol (C2H5OH) is a liquid alcohol fuel (sometimes referred to as grain alcohol) currently made from corn. Ethanol is corrosive to some metals, although less so than methanol. Metals recommended for use with ethanol include carbon steel, stainless steel, and aluminum (if suitably protected from corrosion). Ethanol is less prone to attack elastomeric materials, so many common elastomers can be used with ethanol without risk of deterioration. No special manufacturing techniques are needed for ethanol fuel systems for flexible-fuel vehicles. Unlike with methanol, manufacturers are offering a number of vehicle models as ethanol flexible-fuel vehicles at no extra cost. More than 600,000 of these ethanol flexible-fuel vehicles were made available in MY 2000.
Methanol: Methanol (CH3OH) is a liquid alcohol fuel (sometimes referred to as wood alcohol) produced from natural gas. Methanol will attack and corrode certain metals, such as magnesium and aluminum. Additionally, the corrosion products of aluminum and methanol will precipitate out of the liquid fuel and clog filters and fuel injectors. For this reason, it is recommended that metals such as stainless steel and carbon steel be used in methanol fuel systems and fuel delivery systems. Methanol will also attack many common elastomeric materials, like rubber, polyurethane, and most plastics.”
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/rulings/CAFÉ/alternativefuels/availability1.htm

“Ethanol is corrosive and not compatible with some of the gasoline fuel system components. Ethanol is not compatible with most plastics, rubber seals, and aluminum. General Motors (GM) informed the teams that the gas tank, flexible lines, body lines, strainer, lubricating oil, level sensor and the in-tank fuel pump reservoir did not need to be replaced. The gas tank is steel coated with zinc-nickel epoxy, which is ethanol compatible. The flexible fuel lines, pump reservoir, and body lines are constructed of nylon or steel. The strainer is constructed with Saran and the level sensor is mounted on a ceramic card. These components are ethanol compatible and have not been replaced or modified. Fuel system components that were replaced include the fuel pump, fuel regulator and the fuel injectors. Fuel system modifications include anodizing the aluminum fuel rail and the addition of a filler neck flame arrester. The fuel pump has been replaced with an electrically shielded pump provided by GM. This in-tank pump has been placed in the original tank location. The aluminum fuel rail has been coated with a gold alodine coating. “
http://www.utep.edu/eafrl/pc98/evcpaper.htm


“Cond To Avoid (Stability): HIGH HEAT, OPEN FLAMES AND OTHER SOURCES OF
IGNITION. DO NOT USE ALUMINUM CONTAINERS FOR STORAGE AT TEMPERATURES >
120F.
http://www.ethanol.org/

“Aquinas Technologies of St. Louis, Missouri, uses ethanol from corn as windshield washer fluid. This product replaces methanol, a petroleum derivative, which can pollute. Aquinas has just entered an agreement with K- Mart to market "Nature's Choice." “
http://www.usda.gov/news/releases/1995/04/0335

Looks like for pre IC straight ethanol or an eth/water mix such as Nature’s Choice or Isopropyl+distilled is the way to go to limit corrosion, versus methanol. (Although eth seems to have 20% less latent heat of vaporization than meth, so less cooling and knock resistance, right?) To be on the safe side I will get some ethanol and use the old aluminum inlet pipe from my modded IC to perform a cycle of soaking then air exposure for a while to see if there is any corrosion. Since we are going to mist it instead of the constant full strength liquid exposure of the alternate fuel vehicle discussed above, corrosion should be less of an issue, right? I wonder if I can get the inside of an IC anodized? Will WD-40 negate the corrosive tendencies? Which pump- Ford pickup or maybe Walbro pump P/N 4495399?

Following is some info on pre turbo (which BTW is how I inject propane).
"There are benefits to injecting before the turbo:
1. Much greater vaporization due to mixing of rapidly spinning impeller
2. Pre-cooling of air charge before turbo
3. Consistent injection pressure. If the nozzles are post turbo, the effective pressure across the nozzle will change with boost pressure, lowering flow as boost rises. With the nozzle in the intake, it stays at 1BAR of very close under all load conditions.
However if the impeller of the turbo will suffer damage, I'd rather not. My theory is the people who HAVE caused damage by attempting this were NOT misting the delivery, rather using a jet nozzle of sorts that caused a stream of liquid to hit the impeller. Under these conditions, impeller wear is not surprising. I am going to be using several misting type nozzles under high pressure (100psi). The resulting mist is very fine. I already got the approximate volume flow figured out to get my turbo temps down to below what a air/air intercooler is capable of."
http://www.eng-tips.com/gviewthread.cfm/lev2/6/lev3/35/pid/71/qid/28422

Thanks for reading this and for any feedback.
Joe
 
Joe I'm glad to see you are going to a 100 psi pump. Atomization is key as you well know.

A couple of things bother me about goiung pre-turbo.

It is not nescessary as I believe you will get great atomication with pre-intercooler injection anyways. Especially if you go with several small jets, in a two stage set-up.

Secondly I see a problem developing when the pump starts up. The first part-second of spraying will be delivered at low psi (until the pump gets to full speed) and you will still be hitting the blades with a drop of water or two, instead of mist. An accumulator or check valve might work for you there...

Whatever you do, try to elliminate the alchy. (distilled water only)This will elliminate the need for a lubricating agent that will end up in the intercooler eventually cloggong up the passages and restricting air flow, or worse!

You know we really wouldn't have to do all this if we could just create a super thick fog, with the droplets being much smaller than we can produce (in the quanity needed) with 100 psi.

Of course you will prolly get the same effect by going pre-turbo, but at what cost?

My opinion is to at least try a 2 stage, distilled water pre-intercooler first. Heck the worse that can happen is you will be using some JB Weld to fill 3-4 holes if it doesn't work. Secondly, if this doesn't work, you will be saving me the trouble of trying this myself in the spring! Hehe...:)
 
Originally posted by 1badTTA
as far as the comment on anodizing the intercooler, I was thinking that it would work very well. Here is a link to how to anodize it yourself. http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/anodizealuminum.shtml

Shouldnt be very hard to do either.

Excellent article. :) Anyone on here tried this? Sure would be nice if I could talk the local high school chemistry class into doing this as an "experiment" on my IC. ;) Gray/black anodization would be a nice sleeper look.

Thanks again.

Joe

p.s. I had a '77 Skyhawk from 82-88. It never missed a beat despite major abuse. :)
 
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