I think I'm done with this car

[XXQUICK6XX]

Smoke

Where are you located? If you need a hand drop me a PM or a E-mail. And I'll see if I can give you a hand.

Steve

 

[BEATAV8]

Hey obrut....
I've had similar problems too with BOTH my T's. My "fast" fresh motor 87T was smoking at hot startup, fixed that one with a 1 way check valve in the PCV hose, the kind you can get from Kirban. It added a little restriction to the PCV circuit so it wouldn't suck up as much oil.

My wifes 87T has 150,000 on it and started whisping a little smoke on the way back from bowling green a few months ago. I went so far as to go talk to ANS about building a fresh motor for it. But luckily, it responed well to 1/4 quart of Bardhall "no smoke", which is basically the same stuff as "motor honey". I saw someone else mentioned the "engine restorer" earlier too. I recommend you try something like these if you haven't already.

I know it seems kinda like a dorky thing to try. My attitude at first was "My Turbo Buick is too good for that JC Whitney Trak Auto crap!" but I got over it eventually.

 

[lrover2]

My Turbo Buick is too good for that JC Whitney Trak Auto crap!"

That’s my thoughts. Why should you have to put in a temp fix like that on a fairly new engine? It can’t improve performance either. It’s kind of like putting gum on a bicycle chain make it stop squeaking.

 

[BEATAV8]

That’s my thoughts. Why should you have to put in a temp fix like that on a fairly new engine? It can’t improve performance either. It’s kind of like putting gum on a bicycle chain make it stop squeaking.

Fairly new? 150,000 mile daily driver is the one that got the goo.

Even if it was new... whatever works.

 

[obrut]

Thanks for the support everyone, sorry i haven't responed I've been busy with work.

tcgn good thought but mines smokes out of the pipes even at idle
and driving

njturbo: its a blue-ish gray color

Quickturbosix: PT&E street chip

FJM568: its the hi-vol add-on oil pump kit, is this a common problem?

lrover2: hahaha, i get the same thing from my girlfriend and I always have to leave last from shows too.... hahaha

XXQUICK6XX: Thanks for the offer, i'll send you an email.

MJRWOOD: Good thought, I did a compression test and all of the cylinders are 160 or above, 166 is the highest.

Again thanks for all of the help.

 

[tcgn]

Hey Obrut,
you have nothing to lose and it does not hurt the motor.Give it a shot instead of motor teardown. Time & money again.I tried it and it works.Just change your oil and filter and add one can and change your next oil change at 2,500 to 3,000 miles.You may notice a difference.It`s worth a try.

 

[FJM568]

Not sure if it's a common problem, but it's worth a try...What is a std oil pump kit??? About $20 at Autozone, O'Reilly's, etc??? I have heard of it happening...

Before you do that, though, pull the DP and check for oil residue in the DP...Then go from there...

BTW, what kind of oil pressure are you seeing cold @ idle and warm @ idle??? Just curious what that hi-vol pump is putting out...

 

[ThikStik]

Obrut,
Could your engine buoilder have put in a/the rings upside down? Maybe he finished the walls with the wrong grit upon final hone. Maybe run a leakdown compression test .
GL

 

[NUFSAID]

I FEEL SO MUCH BETTER NOW! MY TTA IS DOING THE SAME THING AND I AM FEELING THE SAME WAY ABOUT MY CAR. I AM REALLY THINKING OF SELLING IT BUT EVERYONE AROUND ME THAT KNOWS WHAT THE CAR IS THINKS I SHOULD KEEP IT. I WILL TRY SOME OF THE SUGESTIONS HERE FIRST. IF THAT DOESNT WORK...IT WILL GO!

 

[obrut]

Nufsaid sorry to hear your in the same boat because this is frustrating as hell. I wont get a chance to work on my car until saturday or sunday. I'm going to get cold and warm idle oil psi, check the down pipe again, pull the intercooler and check that, and try a leak down test (never did a leak down, don't know how) and then i'll post my results. If this stuff doens't work then i'll change the oil pump pressure and maybe try the engine restore idea too.

 

[channer]

obrut,

I know you have good compression but try swapping on another set of (good) heads.

It's more labor-ous than checking the little things but it'll help eliminate the heads if that's were the problem is!!!

good luck.... dave

 

[JToups386]

Here's one other simple solution for now. Why not run a heavier oil? I had loose tolerances in my 87 T when I built it, but I always ran Mobil 1 15w50, and had no problems. The 10w30 sometimes smoked a little though.

I agree with what someone else above said, in that, you don't fix broken motors/parts with a liquid cure. ie Motor Honey, etc. I wouldn't put Motor Honey or STP Oil Treatment in my car on any occasion! It just ain't the way to go! Unless,,, it's on its last breath like MJRWOOD's 155k version, that will probably soon need a rebuild anyway. He's just buying time, but he openly realizes that too.

It certainly sounds like valve guides/seals to me, per my own past experiences with inferior head work and the wrong guides/seals.

However, it's not a big enough problem to warrant getting rid of the car! If you're defeated by this problem, then God help you when you weld a bearing to a crank, or throw a rod through the block...! Are you really ready to get out, or just really freakin' frustrated?

 

[lrover2]

oil on the head?

OK here is my latest question relating to the smoke deal. I changed my valve covers today (cosmetic reasons) and when I removed the driver’s side cover it poured so much oil out I had to get a pan. Is this normal? The passenger side was not like that. I mean it was splashing on the garage floor. It was probably about 8 ounces.

 

[obrut]

JToups386 really, really, really frustrated

 

[obrut]

ok so far i have
cold oil psi is 60
hot oil psi is 30-35
I have the autometer oil temp gauge that reads out like this
0 l 25 l 50 i 75
when it was hot the needle was between 25 and 50 just below the hash mark.

I pulled the intercooler and its bone dry, along with the up pipe and the intake side of the turbo.

I also removed the down pipe and its also bone dry, pulled it 20 minutes after shuting it off.

Next i think i'm going to remove the dog house and maybe the valve covers.

Also can someone give me quick run down on how to do a leakdown test?

Thanks for the help

 

[FJM568]

That hot oil pressure seems really high to me...

As for the leakdown test...You need a leakdown tester and an air compressor that can sustain about 100 psi...Easiest way to do this is to pull the valve covers and the rocker arm shafts...You want the valves to be closed during the test and pulling the rocker arm shafts off is the simplest way to do it...It also foolproofs making sure you are on top dead center for the cyl that you're testing...Then with the tester installed and the cyl that you're working on at TDC, hook up the air compressor and read the leakdown % on the tester gauges...When you're done with that cyl, move to the next cyl and repeat the steps again, making sure that your piston is at TDC for each cyl when you check them...

Once you have the numbers, then post them and we'll go from there...

edit...
It is possible that with the hi-vol oil pump, that you are pumping the heads full of oil and the oil is just getting down into the exh valves because of no seals on the exh valves...With the motor running, pull the oil fill cap off and look down into the head and see if you have a lot of oil there...If you can do the same with the passenger side head, that is probably the side that is getting more oil because the passenger side lifter galley is the first one to get oil from the oil pump...

Personally, I think it's the hi-vol oil pump you've got on there is what is causing the problem...Putting a stock oil pump back in would be a h*lluva lot easier than changing out the heads as someone has suggested...

 

[obrut]

I pulled the oil filler on the driverside valve cover while it was running and i could see oil in there but I'm not sure how much is to much? The car smokes at start up and a light steady stream at idle. The oil pressure never drops off fast and jumps as soon as i touch the gas petal. I'm going to try and do a leak down test tomorrow, i will get back to you guys with some more numbers, thanks

 

[obrut]

Wasn't able to get the gauges for the leak down test. I did a "wet" compression test and it went from 160 (dry) to 165 (wet). I was talking to a buddy of mine and he thought that since i don't have valve guide seals on the exhaust valves and with the high oil pressure this might be the problem. I'm going to first just try putting on umbrella type seal on all of the exhaust valves, then i'm going to adjust the oil pressure from 35psi down to 20 psi. Any other suggestions before i start doing this?

 

[obrut]

Ok i removed the exhaust valve spring on the #1 cylinder. I tried to move the valve back and forth to see if maybe the was some play. I could not move it at all, I also noticed that those factory splash gaurds, i think thats waht they are, are not on there. Should i put those back on too along with the umbrella seals?

 

[MARINES185]

it is very possible that the cylinders weren't finished with the
correct crosshatch pattern but it sounds more like you're
getting to much oil pressure. stock oiling systems are usually
enough on any type of car. do not run any liquid cure in a new
motor. motor restore which can be bought at most parts store
is basically an abrasive to scratch up the cylinder like a
crosshatch pattern. this works on high mileage vehicles that
smoke. will stop the smoke for a little while[long enough to
sell a car] but will start smoking again. another trick i saw
was someone put comet[sink cleaning abrasive] done the
intake of a smoking car. it did stop the smoke though.
point is you don't want that crap in your engine especially
''motor honey''. it has to be beaten out of the container so
it will come out and usually has to be heated to a billion
degrees before it will flow. it will clog everything. to do a
leakdown test you don't need the cylinder on tdc. the valves
for that cylinder must be closed thats it. 10-15% leakage is
acceptable all cylinders should be within a few % of each
other. try oil pump to. way to much oil in valve covers. don't
sell your car because you'll regret it. good luck
don't worry about the splash shields and you will need a dial
indicator to check valve stem clearence. rock valve side to side
with indicator touching stem. should be less than .002'' but say
for sure.