I need some help.... everyone check this out.

[TType84]

I posted in the general forum, but, as we all know, if you have a hotair, no one gives a crap. I have 500,000 views and not one reply.

Here is the deal. I cannot set this bleepin cam sensor. No matter what, when everything is plugged in, i have between 11v and 12v on the middle light blue wire.

I dont have "7.5v+" that drops to "2v" when the window of the cam sensor is between the pickups. I have 11-12v.

Sometimes it is 11v, sometimes it is 12v, it, however, does not change with movement of the cam sensor.

This means i cannot set my cam sensor, and my car will never start...

according to diagrams, this is how it should be, without the cam sensor plugged in:
wire a - grey / red stripe - 12v supply wire
wire b - light blue - signal return wire
wire c - black - ground

according to my volt meter, this is how it IS:
wire a - grey / red stripe - 9-12v
wire b - light blue - 11-12v
wire c - black - no continuity between engine ground and this wire, but no voltage either.

I have three known good ignition modules. One is an OEM IC module, ive had it tested and it passed. One is a WELLS IC module, also tested and passed. I am using a caspers conversion adapter with these two. I also tried a hotair module without the adapter and this situation does not change.

if this is unclear, i have a picture:
http://turbosix.net/images/cam_diagram.jpg

 

[racemybuick]

damn....this is like a whole different language......leme get back to this....I might know who to talk to!


Anyone else?


John

 

[Miraged]

On my hotair... its 12 Volts from pin M (white/red), Ground is pin K (Black) , and my cam signal is pin L (BLUE LT).

 

[cool 84]

You wouldn't happen to have the injector plug and cam sensor plug switched would you? I've done that before and had the same problems as you. Other than that, the sensor is probably bad if voltage isn't changing.

 

[TType84]

Originally posted by cool 84
You wouldn't happen to have the injector plug and cam sensor plug switched would you? I've done that before and had the same problems as you. Other than that, the sensor is probably bad if voltage isn't changing.

no.. i thought maybe i had done that but the wires are the right wires.. the 3 coming out of the module plug...

update............ i got the voltage to finally drop and rise how it should...... however....... the car still wont start.

so i dunno what to do now........ im givin up until morning.

 

[FWD turbo]

What did you do to get the voltage to change properly? Also, what happens when you try to start the car? Are the injectors firing? If not, you still don't have a cam signal. If you do have signal, look for the obvious. Fuel & spark.

We had a real hard time getting mine started the first time. It turned out that my brand-new-out-of-the-box crank sensor was no good. Go figure. We tried swapping coils, and the usual blah stuff trying to find the problem. Wasted a whole day. Never thought the "New" parts would be the bad ones!

Not sure if that helps or not. Good luck.

 

[boosted84]

just curious but why not get the cam set tool from caspers its easy and accurate i think postons sells them if your have that hard of a time it might be worth it if you wanna do it right just my opinion

 

[boosted84]

make sure if you take off the plastic cap the little window is facing the power steering pump


good luck anthony

 

[HOTSIX]

I went thru THREE sensors when I rebuilt my motor.

I had the EXACT same symptoms you are experiencing with the sensor. I tried everything...no good. Finally tried another sensor and bingo. I think that somehow when probing the wires with the voltmeter the sensors were gettin fried or were fried in the first place.

Try a new sensor.

Ill bet the one you have is fried.