My 87 GN has the concert sound system and the radio is shot. I'd like some recommendations on replacement components. I know it's a vague question, but can anyone give me a list of components (adaptors,speakers,stereo), rough prices and where to buy them? I'm not looking for anything fancy, just something that will replace the stock stuff w/o any major mods. I have NO idea what audio stuff costs anymore (I'm getting kinda old), so please go easy on me. I figure you guys can give me a crash course faster than I can get educated in the audio sections of the stores.
I need a beginners shopping list for stereo install
- Thread starter VeesGN
- Start date
Tom Tom Turbo
Turbo Goes Woo Woo
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2002
Well, I can start ya off with a set of Pioneer TS-A6995 6X9's for the rears. Best Buy or Circuit City sells the adapter that will allow you to bolt them in the place of the 4X10s in the back. They are 4 way 280w speakers and they sound great in my T-Type, but I am going to go with a monsoon system from a new T/A. The speakers cost $120 new, I have used mine for 3 weeks and I will put them at your door step for $90. These are the best 6x9s that Pioneer offers this year, so give it some thought!!! e-mail me at
wicked_stang91@hotmail.com
wicked_stang91@hotmail.com
Well, having just upgraded the system in my WE4 I'll make some recommendations but keep in mind that a lot depends on two very important thngs: Your budget and your listening preferences.
If you're used to the factory Concert II system and just want to go to the first level with a basic upgrade I'd suggest you go to Best Buy or CC and pick out a CD receiver in the $150 - $200 price range that looks appealing to you and has internal amps that produre at least 20 watts RMS per channel. Panasonic, JVC, Sony, and Pioneer come to mind.
Replace the dash and door speakers with 3 1/2 and 5 1/4 inchers in the $50 - $80 range. Then replace the 4 x 10s in the trunk with a pair of two or three way 6 x 10s in the $100 range.
Regarding amps, if you want to start off on the economy side, just pick up a 2 channel amp of about 50 watts per channel to drive the rear 6 x 9s and let the new head unit drive the fronts directly. You will get respectfull sound this way especially if you install a pair of bass blocker capacitors (Best Buy or CC) in l ine with the dash speakers. You can pick up an amp in the $100 range.
As for the sub woofers you hear so much about, you may want one sooner or later but it depends upon just how much bass you really like. Many find that a good pair of 6 x 9s produce all the bass they want so they go without a sub woofer. If you decide to go with a sub, you can pick up a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure which will fit in the package tray of you GN for about $150. You'll then need another amp which puts out at least 120 watts RMS in the bridged mode which should set you back another $150 or so.
So, cost wise you can do a basic upgrade in the $500 range without a sub woofer. The sub should cost in the $300 range including the amp. Of cource, professional installation will up the cost a bit and if you want more power that will also up the ante. Hope this gives you some food for thought.
If you're used to the factory Concert II system and just want to go to the first level with a basic upgrade I'd suggest you go to Best Buy or CC and pick out a CD receiver in the $150 - $200 price range that looks appealing to you and has internal amps that produre at least 20 watts RMS per channel. Panasonic, JVC, Sony, and Pioneer come to mind.
Replace the dash and door speakers with 3 1/2 and 5 1/4 inchers in the $50 - $80 range. Then replace the 4 x 10s in the trunk with a pair of two or three way 6 x 10s in the $100 range.
Regarding amps, if you want to start off on the economy side, just pick up a 2 channel amp of about 50 watts per channel to drive the rear 6 x 9s and let the new head unit drive the fronts directly. You will get respectfull sound this way especially if you install a pair of bass blocker capacitors (Best Buy or CC) in l ine with the dash speakers. You can pick up an amp in the $100 range.
As for the sub woofers you hear so much about, you may want one sooner or later but it depends upon just how much bass you really like. Many find that a good pair of 6 x 9s produce all the bass they want so they go without a sub woofer. If you decide to go with a sub, you can pick up a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure which will fit in the package tray of you GN for about $150. You'll then need another amp which puts out at least 120 watts RMS in the bridged mode which should set you back another $150 or so.
So, cost wise you can do a basic upgrade in the $500 range without a sub woofer. The sub should cost in the $300 range including the amp. Of cource, professional installation will up the cost a bit and if you want more power that will also up the ante. Hope this gives you some food for thought.
K
karkid
Guest
if you watch certain sites you can get incredible deals on stuff
i remember seeing a clarion sub for $18 from a reliable source, and Blaupunkt subs for $30, not the best but they will definitly make the average person happy, and you can pick up a ppi 2100 for around $160 at a dealer
if i were you on the speakers side of things, if you plan to go with a sub, spend most of your money on door speakers, if you decide you want rear speakers, then get a pair of 6x9's, i would get a good set of door speakers first though
Denny
i remember seeing a clarion sub for $18 from a reliable source, and Blaupunkt subs for $30, not the best but they will definitly make the average person happy, and you can pick up a ppi 2100 for around $160 at a dealer
if i were you on the speakers side of things, if you plan to go with a sub, spend most of your money on door speakers, if you decide you want rear speakers, then get a pair of 6x9's, i would get a good set of door speakers first though
Denny
Karkit is absolutely right. Door speakers are the sound stage of your system and will produce most of the mid range music so consider spending a little more in this area. If you can afford it, go with a set of component speakers with crossovers. They come with a matched woofer and tweeter for each side. You can then remove the dash speakers since having the high treble range of sound bouncing off your windshield can make for some harsh sound at high listening levels. Have fun.
Actually the dash speakers are closest to your ears. In addition, these are where the greatest benefit of a real good speaker will come. The factory ones were pathetic. Get a GOOD set of 3 /12's with some type of highpass filter (bass blocker) and you will be amazed at how well it sounds.
I agree that the dash speakers are closest to one's ears but disagree that they provide the greatest benefit in a speaker system. Two reasons for this are, first, that they are small and only provide sound in the upper audio range (usually 3500 HZ and up) Second, they fire up at the windshield and therefore, the sound can get a bit harsh if you like soft highs in your music. The door speakers provide almost all of the mid range sound including most of the voice passages.
When replaceing the speakers in my WE4 I wanted to keep my Sony 3 1/2s in the dash since they are very good two ways which will handle lots of power. I replaced the door speakers with Infinity Kappa components and drove around for a week or so comparing the dash speakers against the tweeters that came with the Infinities. The tweeters were temporarily mounted above the Concert II pods. The difference was dramatic in favor of the ones mounted down low as others said it would. Just my opinion, of cource. As they say, "your results may vary".
When replaceing the speakers in my WE4 I wanted to keep my Sony 3 1/2s in the dash since they are very good two ways which will handle lots of power. I replaced the door speakers with Infinity Kappa components and drove around for a week or so comparing the dash speakers against the tweeters that came with the Infinities. The tweeters were temporarily mounted above the Concert II pods. The difference was dramatic in favor of the ones mounted down low as others said it would. Just my opinion, of cource. As they say, "your results may vary".
It depends on what size filter you put on them. With a 300 uf cap the rolloff is around 400 hz. A good 3 1/2 can handle a substantial amount of power this way. I love Sony products but their speakers are not the greatest. Put Infinity Kappas in the dash and the difference will not be as dramatic.
People keep talking about the windshield distorting the sound. But putting tweeters down by your feet is a compromise as well. Is there a dirrect path to your ears from the kick panels - no. Especially the drivers side. On my TTA I can't even see the tweeter on the pod. Plus the angle that the sound is eminating from plays in here as well. A tweeter in a kick panel pod needs to have excellent off axis response. Some tweeters do, some don't. I found that good 3 1/2's in the dash mated with at least 5 1/4's in the factory door location gives full realistic sound without cutting or moving anything.
Plus alot of people compare their kick panel pod install ,which are amplified, to their old 3 1/2 install which probably wasn't amplified. Big advantage for the kick panels right there - clean power.
People keep talking about the windshield distorting the sound. But putting tweeters down by your feet is a compromise as well. Is there a dirrect path to your ears from the kick panels - no. Especially the drivers side. On my TTA I can't even see the tweeter on the pod. Plus the angle that the sound is eminating from plays in here as well. A tweeter in a kick panel pod needs to have excellent off axis response. Some tweeters do, some don't. I found that good 3 1/2's in the dash mated with at least 5 1/4's in the factory door location gives full realistic sound without cutting or moving anything.
Plus alot of people compare their kick panel pod install ,which are amplified, to their old 3 1/2 install which probably wasn't amplified. Big advantage for the kick panels right there - clean power.
I'm not a fan of kick panel pods in our Regals myself. I put the 5 1/4 Kappas in the standare CII pods and mounted the component tweeters on the angled portion of the CII pods which faces towards the rear. Actually, I can see both tweeters from the drivers seat and they sound great.
I Think I need to correct you on your crossover information. Presuming that your speaker has a 4 Ohm impedence, a 300 MFD cap will rollover at about 132 HZ. In order to get a 400 HZ crossover you would need a 100 MFD cap. There is a handy calculator at this web site which is usefull for calculating values for any kind of passive crossover:
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm
I Think I need to correct you on your crossover information. Presuming that your speaker has a 4 Ohm impedence, a 300 MFD cap will rollover at about 132 HZ. In order to get a 400 HZ crossover you would need a 100 MFD cap. There is a handy calculator at this web site which is usefull for calculating values for any kind of passive crossover:
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm
Bescurred
BOOSTED SHAMU v2.0
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2001
Search around and see what u can find i put a pioneer DEHP-3000 Cd player, 3 1/2 pioneer for dash, 5 1/4 Cerwin Vega's in the doors and , 4 x 10's in the rear deck. This combo sounded great later i added a MTX thunder blue sub and a sony 300 watt amp sounded great hope this helps
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