how much $$$ would I be spending on this?

[Daytona_83]

I'd like to get an idea of what I should be expect to spend on the car that I want. Here's the basic list:

1986-1987 turbo car (T-Type/Turbo T)
exterior color - black (preferably t-top)
interior color - gray with console
miles - under 100K
engine/drivetrain - runs/shifts perfectly, no problems
condition - clean, clean, clean (no rust or body damage, nice interior, clean engine bay)
modifications - little to none

I can't think of anything else specifically that I'd want option-wise. I'd travel to wherever the car is if it meets the list above. I would want something that doesn't "need" anything, just a nice car that is ready to drive and have fun with.

*NOTE* This is just a feeler! I'm not in the market just yet, i'm just curious.

 

[GNBRETT]

$7-10k for a decent one. $10-13k for a nice one. $13-18k for a low mile mint one. Although I would look for a hard top or astroroof. ttops are problematic

 

[chopped39]

$7-10k for a decent one. $10-13k for a nice one. $13-18k for a low mile mint one. Although I would look for a hard top or astroroof. ttops are problematic

X2 on all the above. I looked at one at xmotorsport in Elmhurst Il by my house and it has quite a few mods done to it and they want $11,000. It had some paint and body work.It was a texas car to. still had texas sticker in window.Its a 1987 limited solid roof car. Although I have seen some rotted texas cars to. GNBRETT is right about the t-tops. The astroroof is not as bad .If you do get an astroroof car install new hoses that run down and out of the rear quarters. The roof cars will rot to if the windshield leaks but I have only seen 2 of them. good luck

 

[JOHNDEEREGN]

This is an example....

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/cars-sale/334808-87-we4-dry-idaho-car.html

Dont worry as much about miles as you do the history and maintenance on the car.

Good Luck,

Ty

 

[Daytona_83]

Man, I'd LOVE a WE4 car! That one does look very nice. I agree on the history, but sometimes you just don't know the whole story. I'm definitely going to buy the car from here because most of the people on this site are enthusiasts and take care of the cars. Some people just own them to beat the piss out of them, and when they get bored of it, they sell it...not saying it's been beaten hard. Then when you buy it, **** starts breaking. I'm sure there are more honest people on here than dishonest. Like I said, I'll travel as far as I have to go to get the car that meets my needs.

My old GN was an aftermarket t-top car and it did leak, but I absolutely LOVE having the option of taking the tops off. I'm not a big track runner, so I don't think I'll have any issues with the t-tops. I might take it to the track once or twice just because I never have dragged on a track before, but it won't become a habbit.

 

[usetaboost]

Doesn't matter how hard they're beat. THey're 20+ year old cars, there's always going to be something wrong somewhere.

 

[Blazer406]

Doesn't matter how hard they're beat. THey're 20+ year old cars, there's always going to be something wrong somewhere.

IMHO... this is true to a point..... but check for stress cracks around rear window to roof area.... and on the drip rails over the doors.

Also.... IMHO.... body and no rust trumps a whole lot of everything else..... also if it is a complete car.... mileage is no biggie to me. 50k or 150k.... as long as it is clean and rust free.... I can deal with it....

I'd also be looking for a hardtop car.... but that is just me...... less hassles all the way around.

 

[PLAINWHITE T]

I'm not very good at posting links so I'm not sure this will work, but this looks like a nice one located in the midwest.

1987 buick turbo t

 

[usetaboost]

IMHO... this is true to a point..... but check for stress cracks around rear window to roof area.... and on the drip rails over the doors.

Also.... IMHO.... body and no rust trumps a whole lot of everything else..... also if it is a complete car.... mileage is no biggie to me. 50k or 150k.... as long as it is clean and rust free.... I can deal with it....

I'd also be looking for a hardtop car.... but that is just me...... less hassles all the way around.

Yeah by far. I've been able to do everything myself on my car except the body work. It cost me almost 800 bucks to get a few rust holes patched up, and it was cheap compared to a real body shop. I got my work done by a guy that builds circle track cars. What's better than having a fabricator do your body work? I guess it's one of those things you either got it or you don't. I wouldn't be too concerned about stress cracks-its the ruuuuuuust. Like I said before, if I ever do another car no matter what it is, the rusty part better be able to be unbolted so I can throw it in the beer can pile.

 

[usetaboost]

I'm not very good at posting links so I'm not sure this will work, but this looks like a nice one located in the midwest.

1987 buick turbo t

That's 3 1/2 hours from me. I wonder what he wants for it? Looks nice.

 

[berserker6]

that's 3 1/2 hours from me. I wonder what he wants for it? Looks nice.

$16500

 

[UncleDave]

..... but check for stress cracks around rear window to roof area....

You mean there are some without stress cracks? Mine was a hot air car owned by an 80-year-old, apparently it doesn't take much to cause these...

My biggest concern would be rust. Based on experience with New England winters, all it takes is a season or two under wraps outdoors and you can practically watch the holes grow. That's why I bought mine from California.

 

[usetaboost]

You mean there are some without stress cracks? Mine was a hot air car owned by an 80-year-old, apparently it doesn't take much to cause these...

My biggest concern would be rust. Based on experience with New England winters, all it takes is a season or two under wraps outdoors and you can practically watch the holes grow. That's why I bought mine from California.

That's exactly the way it is here with gbodies and fbodies. Iowa uses salt like they can't get rid of it fast enough. THe blue limited had a soft spot onthe bottom of the quarter before winter was over-and I only drove it twice. THe floor on my camaro rusted out on the drivers side and it only took two winters for it to be completely gone.