how much hp for a 10 sec. car

[BLACK6PACK]

My car only put down 405/545 to the wheels on a dyno with very little tuning. The car has ran 11.9 @118 with a 2.1 60' on street tires. Put some slicks on it, and pull a 1.5 60' and I'd be really close to the 10s. My buick weighs around 4400 lbs.

 

[65malibuss]

My car only put down 405/545 to the wheels on a dyno with very little tuning. The car has ran 11.9 @118 with a 2.1 60' on street tires. Put some slicks on it, and pull a 1.5 60' and I'd be really close to the 10s. My buick weighs around 4400 lbs.

You mean 3400 lbs?
I assume that means without you in it, so 3550-3600 with you.
118 mph trap speed equates to about an 11.4 ET, which equates to about 460 horsepower at crank, so 405 at the wheels is about right.

 

[Amelio]

It is real easy to get caught up in the HP numbers game, from my exsperience for our cars to run in the 10's you need about 600hp at the crank.

Dont forget it is not always how much HP you have but how efficienlty you use what you have. I have seen plenty of lower HP cars run much better et's than higher because hook up very weel and get out of the whole quick. This is of course dealing with realatively the same weight cars (3600 or so with driver) I have spnked cars that I though would blow by me just because my car works well.

Also most Dyno results I have seen with our cars including mine....they make power like a Big block which means the Hp and Tq numbers are close My tq was high than Hp of course but within 50

A good way to look at it is Tq gets you there and Hp keeps you there and takes it higher. The faster you can spin an engine the more Hp it will produce.

 

[V6POWER]

Best I could do on a Mustang dyno was 411/570 and my best run has been 11.01 @ 124 with only 1.74 60'.

 

[kenny]

My old car made 440whp and trapped 120mph every pass.

Car weighed 3230lbs without me in it.

That's a full weight car, a car making 403whp could do the same if it had a little less weight.

 

[Amelio]

Best I could do on a Mustang dyno was 411/570 and my best run has been 11.01 @ 124 with only 1.74 60'.

I am curious...what kind of Dyno were yu on....an MD or a Dyno jet? How much boost were you running to make that power? An 11.01 sounds like you could bust into the 10's on a perfect day and cool weather. What kind os converter are you using?

 

[BLACK6PACK]

You mean 3400 lbs?
I assume that means without you in it, so 3550-3600 with you.
118 mph trap speed equates to about an 11.4 ET, which equates to about 460 horsepower at crank, so 405 at the wheels is about right.

No, I weigh 600 lbs and the car weighs 3800 lbs!! You're right, 3400, 3550 with me in it.

low 400 hp with a 3400 lb car would really be pushing it to go 10s in a best case scenario. Keeping things in general it wouldn't take a whole lot more to run 10s. If I had knocked off .5-.6 on my 60' which usually knocks off a few more tenths at the end of the 1/4 my car would be pretty close. But that's a lotta woulda coulda shoulda, and no 10 second slip.

 

[V6POWER]

Amelio--Mustang dyno. 27# boost with 93/methanol and 22* timing. PTS 9-11 tc locked at 95 mph on dyno. If I could have lowered the 60' just by 0.2, I would have run in the tens. :smile:

 

[JDSfastGN]

My dads GN setup just like mine has gone 124 on a warm day. It put down 447 hp on a mustang dyno with the converter locked which should be close to 490 on a dynojet. I ran the exact same mph as he did but have not dynoed it.

 

[Amelio]

Amelio--Mustang dyno. 27# boost with 93/methanol and 22* timing. PTS 9-11 tc locked at 95 mph on dyno. If I could have lowered the 60' just by 0.2, I would have run in the tens. :smile:

That is pretty much what I thought, MD dynos are much more accurate than a Dyno jet.400hp to the ground should put our cars in or very close to the 10's if everything is working well. You made 411whp and went 11.01 which puts you at 550-570 at the crank.

My buddy Tim that tuned my car said I would need roughly 570-600 hp at the crank to put my car in the 10's and I think he was dead on correct in that statment. He also uses a MD Dyno I never had a chance to run my car but it manage to put down 430hp and 475tq on 19psi with a non locking converter. We were shooting for 500rwhp but ended up breaking the bottom end before we could turn up the boost.

 

[gczarny]

I never had a chance to run my car but it manage to put down 430hp and 475tq on 19psi with a non locking converter. We were shooting for 500rwhp but ended up breaking the bottom end before we could turn up the boost.

wow , sorry to hear that but braking the bottom end on the block with girdle at 430 RWHP ? you may need new knock sensor with this repair also ,I think , how did it brake ?

 

[KevinB]

No, I weigh 600 lbs and the car weighs 3800 lbs!! You're right, 3400, 3550 with me in it.

low 400 hp with a 3400 lb car would really be pushing it to go 10s in a best case scenario. Keeping things in general it wouldn't take a whole lot more to run 10s. If I had knocked off .5-.6 on my 60' which usually knocks off a few more tenths at the end of the 1/4 my car would be pretty close. But that's a lotta woulda coulda shoulda, and no 10 second slip.

I would steal some parts off your brothers car if I were you hahaha...or have Ronnie be your wrench:biggrin:

 

[SloGN]

Hp

HP is a measurements of torque over time. Like someone said up above a engine that turns more rpms will generally make more HP that TQ just due to the TIME (rpms) it had to generate those numbers.


I think that a very well Balanced tuned buick can run in the 10.80.'s with 530 ish HP with a good 1.50's 60ft with mph in the mid 120's. My firends car runs those #'s and he dynoed @ 535 HP with a no locK-up convertor.



Pablo

I agree no body here ever seems to care about losses from the engine to the wheels. There is things like the pinion angle and is the axle in correctly all these thing affect HP. The bug thing that hurts us is the slippage of the convertor. while some convertors are better than others there is still a lose in power.

 

[charlief1]

Some one figured it out. Even if you have 1k HP if you can't get it to the ground then it does you no good. The HP # can be lower if you get good traction and have the chasis set up right. Weight transfer is the main thing. If you're lifting the front tires off the ground then you loose some weight transfer. The best launch is one where the car lifts in the front but never leaves the ground.

 

[KevinB]

For what it's worth, when I first got my car together last year we went to the dyno, then directly to track.

On a dynojet, the car did 595 at the wheels. Went right to the track, didn't change a thing and it did 10.2 @ 132. Car weighs 3550 lbs, th400, 9" rearend if that helps ya.

 

[Amelio]

wow , sorry to hear that but braking the bottom end on the block with girdle at 430 RWHP ? you may need new knock sensor with this repair also ,I think , how did it brake ?

Well this was a few years back and nothing like the crank or block broke.....it stretched a rod bolt and spun a bearing. This is when the bottom end was completly stock. I then rebuilt the whole engine and went with ARP rod bolts and everything in my sig. All was great then the cam wipped two lobes a few months back and the car is still apart and I am trying to save up for a roller kit.

I am pretty confident the car will put down 500hp and if I can get it to hook it should just break into the 10's with 27-28 psi and good tune. That would be great but I mostly want the car to run a consistant 11.30-11. teens. The car is mostly a street ride and sees the track every now and then.

 

[BLACK6PACK]

I would steal some parts off your brothers car if I were you hahaha...or have Ronnie be your wrench:biggrin:

I think Tim has enough parts laying around to put 2 cars into the 10s. They're no good to him if they're only good for mid to low 10s. I'd love it if Ronnie could wrench on my car. A 1 car carport, no garage, 5 cars in the driveway, and 95* year round makes it tough to do any work on a car.