how much does the b body brake swap lower the front end ?

[turbo nasty]

Does the conversion lower the front end?

How much and how hard is the conversion or should say what part is the most aggravating?

Do I have to change ball joints?

Thanx

 

[87GN&98VET]

I have heard anywhere between 0.5" - 0.75". I'm getting ready to do this conversion also (with a Baer kit) and I'd be interested in hearing some real numbers from others who have done this already.

 

[turbo nasty]

Come on folks...somebody has to have done this..

TTT

 

[Gmachine]

Yep, I've done it! Only thing is, I also did the Eibach springs at the same time. I don't think 1/2" would amount to much though. As far as difficulty, not bad if you've compressed springs before. If not, get some else to do it. And no I don't experience any bumpsteer. Quite a bit more pedal travel, but I see it as more room for control.

Ryan

 

[bruce]

It narrowed the track slightly but I don't recall it lowering the car any.
Just measure from the lower ball joint flange to the center of the spindle, on both once you get one apart, will show the difference.

 

[turbo nasty]

thanx....anyone else??

 

[GN ERGY]

I just did mine and it didn't lower the car at all. The front tracking is a little wider, maybe 1/2 inch. It wasn't that hard of a job at all.
Tarey D.

 

[turbo nasty]

Thanx to all....Junkyrd b body spindles here I come

 

[Bigthreefan]

did the swap on my SS two years ago

dropped it about 1/2"

HTH

 

[turbo nasty]

cool big 3 thanxs..so another question?
Will the Ball joints/tierod on the grand nat will go right on the spindle no problem?

 

[jsta6]

I thought that, according to Herb Adams site, the "B Body" spindle was a 1" drop.

 

[Bigthreefan]

Originally posted by turbo nasty
cool big 3 thanxs..so another question?
Will the Ball joints/tierod on the grand nat will go right on the spindle no problem?

yes they will BUT..... theres always a but


the B-body spindles are taller than the g-body

so you will either need ALOT of alingment shims but thats not really a good idea

moog makes a offset shaft for the upper control arm (better idea)

or use a aftermarket upper control arm like UB machine, Hotchkis or global west. (I have Hotchkis) these arm at made for the 12" swap. (i have one very thin shim in onr arm for the whole alingment)

you will also need to use F-body 1LE rotors - Raybestos (5994)
because the b-body rotors will be 5 on 5 bolt pattern. the 1LE's are 4 3\4 x 5" and you CAN use a 15x7 wheel.

heres the parts i used

Parts list used:

Front upper control arm:.....Hotchkis (1101)
Master Cylinder:.............86'Caprice/Impala - Raybestos (39328)
Calipers:....................86'Caprice/Impala - Raybestos (RC4123-R,
RC4124-L)
Rotors:......................F-body 1LE - Raybestos (5994)
Outer bearings:..............(A3)
Inner bearings:..............(A6)
Inner bearing seals:.........(8871)
Spindles & Back plates:......86'Impala - (soon to be outlawII comp.)
Brake hoses:.................Russell DOT S/S braided hoses
Front coil Springs:.......... 1" drop 91 S-10 (710ft/lbs)

keep in mind that stock s-10 springs will drop a G-body 1"

 

[Bigthreefan]

Originally posted by jsta6
I thought that, according to Herb Adams site, the "B Body" spindle was a 1" drop.

they may drop it 1/4 to 3/4

 

[turbo nasty]

thanx a ton...

The powermaster will still work with the b body calipers right ???

 

[Bigthreefan]

as far as I know it should.

I can't see why it would be an issue.

 

[ijames]

According to Global West's web site the Powermaster is okay with the b-body calipers but if you have switched to vacuum brakes with a master cylinder from a g-body, you need to switch to a b-body master cylinder.

 

[turbo nasty]

Thanx ..gotcha