How likely is it for a 200-4R to be the cause of a vibration problem?

Kawaiikeno

New Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2011
I've been chasing a vibration problem starting about 65 mph. and above faster you go the worse it gets.
Pretty much ruled out tires, drive shaft, pinion angle all have been swapped out or angles changed with no change.
Thanks for any advice
Mike
 
That's the next thing on the list. After that I'm thinking about swapping transmissions as that's the only thing we haven't ruled out
Thanks Mike
 
That's the next thing on the list. After that I'm thinking about swapping transmissions as that's the only thing we haven't ruled out
Thanks Mike
 
I had a wicked vibration due to poorly made aftermarket rear brake drums

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
You spun it up on jack stands to rule out tires and axles? How were the front tires ruled out? I would put them on the rear and spin it up on jack stands again.
 
Thanks all for the replies
The problem really became noticeable when we changed rear ends from a 7.5" with a 3.42 gear set to a 8.5 with a 3.90 gear set. Before the swap the 8.5 was completely rebuilt all new bearings, ring and pinion,johnny joint upper bushings,backing plates,brakes and hardware,drums. Only the housing,carrier, yoke and axles were reused.
The drive shaft from the donor G.N. was heavily pitted in spots so a Strange heavy duty unit was purchased.
Driving revealed a vibration so original pitted drive shaft was installed and the vibration seemed to go away.
Further testing revealed a very loose fit between the output shaft and the new slip yoke( this was confirmed by chucking a spare output shaft in a lathe and sliding the drive shaft on and measuring with a dial indicator against the original one,the new one had 3-4 times the run out, Strange then sent a replacement slip yoke with different spline geometry this reduced run out to less than the original) there was still a little vibration but it was known that the car dog tracked a little and the pinion angle was out of parallel by 2 deg.
The first of the week adjustable upper and lower control arms were added, thrust angle was corrected and pinion angle was set to -2.5 deg. which I believed to be the wrong direction as transmission is sitting 3 deg down.
Car was driven and vibration was the same or worse we then lifted the rear of the car with a floor jack spun it up at 65 mph the vibration started rear tires were removed this made no difference brake drums were removed and this made no difference. Pinion angle was reset to +2.7 deg. car was driven again with no noticeable change.
At this point all we know is
It is drive line related
It's not the tires
It's not the gear set as the 3.90 was swapped for a 4.11
It's not the brake drums
It remained unchanged with 2 different drive shafts

What we don't know is
Was it present with the 7.5" axle with 3.42 (it may have been there but at a higher speed)
And Where it is coming from all the easy stuff has been tried

I really appreciate all the help
Thanks Mike
 
Ok then if it revs smooth in park that would confirm its something after the engine and torque convertor. Bent internals,. Etc.
 
Ok then if it revs smooth in park that would confirm its something after the engine and torque convertor. Bent trans
internals,. Etc.
 
Thanks All
I will make sure it's not there in park. After that I think I'll try and have the rear bushing changed if I can find someplace that can do it.
Different people have said that the 200-4r relies heavily on the rear bushing more so than other gm transmissions I have no idea if this is true or not.
Thanks Mike
 
I've experienced a bad torque converter before, but this was on my Tahoe. Very similar symptoms as yours except mine would vibrate real bad around 70-75 mph and get worse at 80. I found it by unlocking the converter at 70mph and the vibration went away.
 
Thanks Rodney
The transmission is a non lock up 200-4r that came from Brian Hoffer with a Transmission Specialties 12" converter that flashes to around 2800. The trans has been a Beast it's held up perfectly.
So I'm reasonably sure it's not the torque converter lockup.
I called around to the local transmission shops asking if they could change the bushing in the car with no luck so far. Most tell me you just unbolt the tail housing and knock it out from the inside they don't realize the 200-4r doesn't have a removable tail housing. As soon as i can find the tools or a shop that has them I'm going to change the bushing.
Please Guys don't stop with the ideas.
And if anyone knows a transmission shop in lower Michigan capable of changing the tail shaft bushing in the car pass it on.
Thanks Mike
 
Out of curiosity how are the engine mounts?
 
Engine mounts ? thats something I've never given a thought about,not hard to check though.
This what I'm looking for the things I haven't thought about or tried yet.
It's always the last thing you do that fixes it . I just hope it's not something to obvious when we do find it.
Thanks Mike
 
Check the trans mount and cross member mounts too.
 
Thanks Rodney
The transmission is a non lock up 200-4r that came from Brian Hoffer with a Transmission Specialties 12" converter that flashes to around 2800. The trans has been a Beast it's held up perfectly.
So I'm reasonably sure it's not the torque converter lockup.
I called around to the local transmission shops asking if they could change the bushing in the car with no luck so far. Most tell me you just unbolt the tail housing and knock it out from the inside they don't realize the 200-4r doesn't have a removable tail housing. As soon as i can find the tools or a shop that has them I'm going to change the bushing.
Please Guys don't stop with the ideas.
And if anyone knows a transmission shop in lower Michigan capable of changing the tail shaft bushing in the car pass it on.
Thanks Mike




I've had the tail shaft bushing replaced while the tranny was still in the car by Lawrence Transmissions. They are located in Rexdale, Ontario, Canada. Chris told me that he made a special tool to be able to do this. Have had 2 different transmissions done by him and both worked out just fine. Unfortunately he is not close to Michigan. I'm sure if you called around to performance transmission shops, you'd be able to find one close by you that can do this.

Here's a link: http://www.lawrencetransmission.ca
 
Thanks Rodney
The transmission is a non lock up 200-4r that came from Brian Hoffer with a Transmission Specialties 12" converter that flashes to around 2800. The trans has been a Beast it's held up perfectly.
So I'm reasonably sure it's not the torque converter lockup.
I called around to the local transmission shops asking if they could change the bushing in the car with no luck so far. Most tell me you just unbolt the tail housing and knock it out from the inside they don't realize the 200-4r doesn't have a removable tail housing. As soon as i can find the tools or a shop that has them I'm going to change the bushing.
Please Guys don't stop with the ideas.
And if anyone knows a transmission shop in lower Michigan capable of changing the tail shaft bushing in the car pass it on.
Thanks Mike

There is a tool made to do the tailshaft bushing. Did one on a friends car last summer and it was a breeze! Believe the tool was around $100.
 
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