Hi All, I installed a hot wire kit on my 87 GN a while ago. Anyway it's a Casper I think, and i had it install on the Hot post on the back of the alternator, but i notice it was getting HOT, so thinking the Buick Road master alternator was throwing to much fire, i moved it to the battery. It has the big relay at the tank, and It has a fuse at the front of the car, it burnt the posts off the walbor, so I got a new heavy duty in tank harness, and a Denso pump. Anyway it's getting really HOT!!! I made sure it has plenty of grounds. I have a volt meter, but i dont know how to use it when it come's to OHMs, and resistance. Any info will be welcomed!!!
Hot wire kit, HOT!!!
- Thread starter 1chance
- Start date
A volt meter checks just that: volts. Nothing else.
An ohm meter checks electrical resistance. Nothing more.
A multi-meter checks a little bit of everything.
A hot wire (no pun intended) means excessive current draw via the load or a short circuit in which there's no way to break the circuit via a fuse or circuit breaker.
Does the hot wire only get hot with the key turned on? Or is it always hot even with the ignition off?
An ohm meter checks electrical resistance. Nothing more.
A multi-meter checks a little bit of everything.
A hot wire (no pun intended) means excessive current draw via the load or a short circuit in which there's no way to break the circuit via a fuse or circuit breaker.
Does the hot wire only get hot with the key turned on? Or is it always hot even with the ignition off?
DailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2007
How hot is hot? If the Denso is drawing alot of current the wire will get hot, it shouldn't be glowing though. Also make sure your grounds are GOOD grounds :wink:.
As far as your volt meter goes its pretty simple. If your trying to figure out whether or not the hotwire kit is somehow grounding to the frame somehow, you would disconnect the hotwire from the battery (or alt) terminal, set the meter to OHMS, connect one end of the meter to the hotwire and the other to the frame, or ground somewhere. IF the meter reads OL or blinks a number at you (my meter will blink 40.00 if it's out of limits) the hotwire is not grounding out on the frame. NEVER measure something in ohms if it has electricity flowing though it. For example, if you were measuring for a parasitic draw on the battery (No TB has ever had this problem
) you would disconnect the battery terminals and place one lead on the positive battery cable, and the other lead on the negative battery cable, IF you have a draw the meter will read a number if you don't the meter will read OL. When you do this test make sure the doors are shut, if the meter is showing a draw start pulling fuses until you see OL on the meter. If you want to test the resistance of a injector, place one lead on each terminal and see what the readings are compared to the rest of the injectors. Here's another free tip for you, don't use butt connectors to make splices in wires, your asking for nothing but trouble :wink:. Hope this helps
As far as your volt meter goes its pretty simple. If your trying to figure out whether or not the hotwire kit is somehow grounding to the frame somehow, you would disconnect the hotwire from the battery (or alt) terminal, set the meter to OHMS, connect one end of the meter to the hotwire and the other to the frame, or ground somewhere. IF the meter reads OL or blinks a number at you (my meter will blink 40.00 if it's out of limits) the hotwire is not grounding out on the frame. NEVER measure something in ohms if it has electricity flowing though it. For example, if you were measuring for a parasitic draw on the battery (No TB has ever had this problem
) you would disconnect the battery terminals and place one lead on the positive battery cable, and the other lead on the negative battery cable, IF you have a draw the meter will read a number if you don't the meter will read OL. When you do this test make sure the doors are shut, if the meter is showing a draw start pulling fuses until you see OL on the meter. If you want to test the resistance of a injector, place one lead on each terminal and see what the readings are compared to the rest of the injectors. Here's another free tip for you, don't use butt connectors to make splices in wires, your asking for nothing but trouble :wink:. Hope this helpsDailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2007
I would look for a short or improperly sized wires.
turbobob924
Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
I would defer to the doctor, John Spina from caspers on this.
Subscribed.
I just finished my denso intank install with caspers hot wire kit.
The wires get pretty warm but not too hot to the touch.
Subscribed.
I just finished my denso intank install with caspers hot wire kit.
The wires get pretty warm but not too hot to the touch.
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2005
x2...your not blowing a fuse???? sounds like resistance (IE; badly crimped terminal,connector,frayed wire) OR wire is bare and touching somewhere (IE; firewall,crewed into carpet trim running board)...bad relay not making 100% contact between poles 30 and 87...
oh yeah,whats the volts at the pump at idle?? does that match the volts at battery and alt????
BlackBandit
God loves Buicks!
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2003
Exactly what wire is getting hot. Is it the new 10 ga "hot wire" or is it a section of existing factory wire?
