help tuning

D

dfirefighter

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2007
I have been having trouble tuning. here are some of my numbers with a auto xray scan tool.

In closed loop:
- no trouble codes
-IAC= 13 steps
-coolant temp.= 193.0 deg.
-Eng. load= 29-33
-Eng. RPM= 775 average
-TPS= .43, 4.66WOT
-Integrator= 123-134
-o2 sensor= 237-858 mvolts
-MAF= 4 gr/sec. , 228WOT
-Block learn= 160 (having trouble with this)
-o2 cross counts= 13-250
-manifold air temp= 113.0 deg.
-Batt. voltage= 11.4-11.9
-proportional o2 step= rich/lean
-rich/lean flag= rich/lean

the problems im having are, sometimes when i put car in drive it will stall. starts right back up. reset tps/iac, and not sure if it is cured but now sometime car still bogs down when put in drive. sometimes stays idling and sometimes stalls.

other problem is block learn. I have new ac delco pcv, pcv gormet, egr solenoid, egr is fairly new, MAF is a new remanufactured ac delco from nos4gn Buick Grand National Parts Home Page, vac lines seem ok. not sure the best way to check for leaks thoroughly.

im sure i did more but my brain is very tired from this car. any help would be awesome!:)
 
BLMs at 160 indicate a vacume leak. I would check all the hoses and maybe try blocking off the vacume block on top of the intake and see if the BLMs drop into line.

When my BLMs shot up to 150 I found the vacume hoses that run the cruise control disconnected.

Also I have had a high BLM reading due to an O2 sensor that was not working.
 
As stated;
You have a massive vacuum leak :)

Also:
Voltage is on the low side.
MAF is low as well.

Questions;
1. What chip are you using and is it matched to the injectors?
2. What is the FP with the hose on?
3. Is the BLM 160 on the first cell and what do the others look like? (Your sig states you have PL)
 
I am using red armstrong 93 chip. stock injectors. and yes they are matched up. the cars has been sitting for about 9 years. i have new gas tank, fuel pump, fuel filter. stock injectors have about 10K miles on them, and again have been sitting for 9 years.
fuel pressure with hose on is 36. and I have not hooked up PL yet so im not sure what BLM is on what cell. but the BLMS were at 128 for 5 minutes after I started car from having battery disconnected then they climed up to about 145. After idling for about 20minutes, Did a few test runs and now I have the numbers above. Mainly BLM was a constant 150-155, now 160 after constant running/idling total of about 45 minutes
 
XLR8 said:
BLMs at 160 indicate a vacume leak. I would check all the hoses and maybe try blocking off the vacume block on top of the intake and see if the BLMs drop into line.

When my BLMs shot up to 150 I found the vacume hoses that run the cruise control disconnected.

Also I have had a high BLM reading due to an O2 sensor that was not working.
Click to expand...

how do i block off the vacumm block?
and I have a new heated o2 sensor from bowling green customs that i had sitting for about 8 years put in? could it still be bad? I also have a new denso o2, should i put that in?
one last thing is i noticed that i dont have a fuel vapor canistor. the hose is just hangin off the line. does this mean anything?
 
Jerryl said:
As stated;
You have a massive vacuum leak :)

Also:
Voltage is on the low side.
MAF is low as well.

Questions;
1. What chip are you using and is it matched to the injectors?
2. What is the FP with the hose on?
3. Is the BLM 160 on the first cell and what do the others look like? (Your sig states you have PL)
Click to expand...

I am using red armstrong 93 chip. stock injectors. and yes they are matched up. the cars has been sitting for about 9 years. i have new gas tank, fuel pump, fuel filter. stock injectors have about 10K miles on them, and again have been sitting for 9 years.
fuel pressure with hose on is 36. and I have not hooked up PL yet so im not sure what BLM is on what cell. but the BLMS were at 128 for 5 minutes after I started car from having battery disconnected then they climed up to about 145. After idling for about 20minutes, Did a few test runs and now I have the numbers above. Mainly BLM was a constant 150-155, now 160 after constant running/idling total of about 45 minutes
 
on my canister I found the vac line to solenoid was sucking air non stop, i removed

is vac line going to removed canister plugged?

block off the vac block, ive been told to get some gasket material from store, cut square peice and slide it under, bolt it down, i forgot where ive seen the troubleshooting on that, maybe GN.org

spray carb cleaner around throttle, intake, listen for rpm change

I had also noticed during my hair pulling that the pvc grommet was riding some weird casting mark, it didnt look right so i pulled it, bought new one, goobed it up with rtv and beat it back in..what fun that was.

when i pull intake this winter im going to grind down the casting mark so grommet is flush.
 
ok here is what i have noticed. when i start the car my BLM is 128. as soon as it hits closed loop it jumped to 147. unplugged MAF and BLM is 126-132. plugged back in jumped to 152. did this a few times with same results. also BLM go to normal limits while driving. then go high when im at idle.
 
dfirefighter said:
ok here is what i have noticed. when i start the car my BLM is 128. as soon as it hits closed loop it jumped to 147. unplugged MAF and BLM is 126-132. plugged back in jumped to 152. did this a few times with same results. also BLM go to normal limits while driving. then go high when im at idle.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a classic vacuum leak.
 
dfirefighter said:
So my MAF is ok with this even with the 228WOT? I should just focus mainly on vac lines?
Click to expand...

Well, max MAF reading depends on boost and RPM, so it is hard to say.
If you have a spare MAF, change it out as your MAF is low at idle as well. (6-7 at idle is what you want to see)
 
mcasteel2112 said:
on my canister I found the vac line to solenoid was sucking air non stop, i removed

is vac line going to removed canister plugged?

block off the vac block, ive been told to get some gasket material from store, cut square peice and slide it under, bolt it down, i forgot where ive seen the troubleshooting on that, maybe GN.org

spray carb cleaner around throttle, intake, listen for rpm change

I had also noticed during my hair pulling that the pvc grommet was riding some weird casting mark, it didnt look right so i pulled it, bought new one, goobed it up with rtv and beat it back in..what fun that was.

when i pull intake this winter im going to grind down the casting mark so grommet is flush.
Click to expand...


I dont have a fuel vapor canister. there is just a rubber hose about 1 ft. long coming of the hard line. doesnt appear to be blocked. should it be?

also does anyone have any imput on the denso o2 sensor. good/bad/fine.
 
there is another thread here on that check valve and high blm, guys said to run inline but deleting pcv in favor of just check valve was big hassle.

on the canister I plugged vac line and fuel line as well and vented my gas cap for now
 
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