Help Motor will not run right

BurNrubR

Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2004
Ok my car has been sitting for about 6 years now. I put together a new motor and tranny over the years and finally installed it. Went to start it and it runs like crap. Will not ilde it seems like its missing. I supect fuel injectors since they have been sitting so long with bad gas in them. The fuel pump was shot and the tank needed help as well. I tested the injectors with a noid light and they all are getting a good signal. All my sensors seem to be within range according to my scanmaster. I have a good ground and good fuel pressure too. Anyone else have suggestions? Cam sensor was installed according to Steve Woods web site so I dont think its the problem either. Any advice?

Thanks,
 
Fuel injectors sitting for six years? Yeah...that's a problem. have em cleaned or get some new ones. Gas turns into shellac after a year or so of sitting. Fuel lines are prolly same way also. mine set for 13 years before I got it, had to put all new fuel system(tank, injectors, lines and so on) on it and fired right up...
 
I had to drop the tank and clean it out really good. I changed the pump and fuel filter and purged the lines with fresh gas. I am getting good pressure so I hope I dont have to change out the fuel lines. I think I am going to order TT chip and 60llb injectors.
 
Ken,bring me the injectors and I can have them cleaned and flowed.Check 02 sensor also.

Kevin;)
 
Here are some Scanmaster readings with car at about 1,000 RPMs just keeping my foot on the gas to try and smooth it out. If I dont it just shuts down. Anyones input would be very helpful....
Air Flow 05
L8 42-46
Battery 13.4
Integrator 128
Block Learn 128
MPH 0
Coolant temp 70
Air temp 70
rpm 1025
TPS .62
Idle air control 175
 
Here are some Scanmaster readings with car at about 1,000 RPMs just keeping my foot on the gas to try and smooth it out. If I dont it just shuts down. Anyones input would be very helpful....
Air Flow 05
L8 42-46
Battery 13.4
Integrator 128
Block Learn 128
MPH 0
Coolant temp 70
Air temp 70
rpm 1025
TPS .62
Idle air control 175
sorry i mis read .
 
But I am getting the unplugged or low voltage to MAF code on my scanmaster. I did clear the code after unplugging it. It keeps coming back. I am getting a friend of mines MAF that I know works and see if that changes anything. Also looking at going with the translater and larger MAF sensor. ANYONE?
 
Unless you are concerned about keeping the car stock, a t-lator and a lt or ls1 maf is the way to go.

New injectors and a modern chip won't hurt either followed by a complete spring cleaning. ;)
 
Just changed out the MAF sensor and it idles without stalling now. Seems to be running kinda normal from what I remember. Its been a long time since I have heard my buick run. I dont have the ATR single shot exhaust hooked up its just dumping out of the down pipe. I am now getting a a code 44. I thought I had put a new O2 sensor in it. I do know that some of my vacuum lines are looking pretty bad too. My brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, when I looked under the car I noticed a puddle of brake fluid I traced it back to the reservoir, looked as if it was pouring out from the top cap seal? I will try and bleed the brakes tomorrow and see if that helps. Lots of stuff going on trying to bring this car back from the dead. Any advice???
 
Ok code 44. I put a new O2 sensor in it today still same code. What else might be the most common cause?

Thanks
 
Typical causes for this code include:

1) O2 sensor defective or lead shorted
2) Lean injectors (dirty or blocked)
3) Water in fuel
4) Exhaust leaks upstream of O2 sensor
5) Fuel pressure or volume too low
6) MAF sensor reading lower airflow than is actually present
7) Vacuum leaks
8) Incorrect or poorly calibrated PROM

Save this to your favorites. http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html It comes in handy.

RL
 
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