Got the heads back on!

FlaBoy

Just a good ole boy...
Joined
Jun 6, 2003
I figured you guys have had to put up with my million questions and giving me all sorts of help, the least I could do was fill you in on how things are going on the re-assemble :) Again, if you guys notice anything I've done wrong, or forgotten to do, please feel free to chime in :)

Today I was hoping to make a lot of progress, but at the last minute I got a call from a professor I work with. Turns out he's been awarded a Nat'l Science Foundation Grant of $300,000+ to do some research on electro-wetting and its applications into TEDs (thermoelectric devices) and micro- and nano-scale self-assembly techniques. I had to run over to campus and spend most of the day talking to him, but it looks like I'll be part of his team now!:biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

When I got back home, all I had time to do was get the heads back on, but it was very rewarding to see the motor start to come back together. I had already cleaned out all the bolt holes with a chasing 'tap' and cleaned off the block deck surface with a razor blade till it was smooth as glass. I did one final wipe down of all the bores to remove any grit that had gotten in at the last minute, leaving behind a light coating of motor oil (except for the cylinder with the new rings, which I wiped down with ATF as per the recommendations of several on the board to help the rings seat more quickly). I cleaned off the mating surfaces on both block and head with lacquer thinner. I sprayed down my OE GM steel shim head gaskets on both sides with 2 coats of aerosol hi-temp copper gasket sealant, and placed them on the block. I set one head on, and placed the bolts in finger tight. Each bolt (new ARP) got a healthy coating of ARP's moly lube under the bolt head and under the washer, and a coating of Permatex thread sealant with teflon on the threads. I called ARP to verify torque values and techniques, since I have read a TON of different suggestions on the board. As they said, I torqued the bolts to a total of 75 ft.-lbs. in increments of 25, going in an 'X' pattern from inner bolts to outer. The whole process was repeated on the other side. After letting it all settle overnight, tomorrow I'm going to re-torque them, though I don't expect the head gasket to compress much since its not one of those composite jobs.

Everything check out okay? Did I miss anything obvious that its not too late to fix? Thanks again for all the help and guidance so far!
 
I was kind of wondering about this, how to assemble the lifters/pushrods/rocker shaft now that the heads are on. I looked at a few mopar engine rebuild manuals my dad had laying around (they use shaft mounted rockers too), and they all seemed to have you install the heads before re-installing the rocker shaft and valvetrain components.

I was wondering what the best way to install all this was. A few days ago I disassembled and cleaned out all my lifters (being sure to keep careful track of which lifter went with which cam lobe and cylinder). When I re-assembled them, i submerged them in a cup of motor oil and used a pushrod to compress the piston a few times to to purge the air and pump them up with oil. Then when I started to think about it, I wondered if this might make it difficult to re-install the rocker shaft. I was thinking that if I put the lifters back in, then the pushrods on top, and then tried to install the rocker shafts, if the pushrods on the valves that were opened at that particular point would make it difficult/impossible to get the rocker shaft bolts started, or if I COULD get them started, if it would make for improper torque readings (since some of the tightening force would actually be going towards compressing the springs).

Not sure if I'm explaining myself clearly, but hopefully you can see what im worried about. Is this a non-issue? If it IS a problem, whats the best way to deal with it? will the lifters bleed down over time and make it so that even though they're on top of a lifted cam lobe, they'll compress enough to allow the pushrods to slip easily under the rocker arms?

I was hoping to get this done tomorrow, so any suggestions or explanations of how to do this would be very helpful. Again, thanks for all the help so far and all the help i;m sure ill be needing in the next week as I (hopefully) get my motor running again.
 
you bleed them down so they can readjust
they will pump up by there self..
if there holding a valve open they will bleed down some what
 
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