I want to get my A/C system working well. The compressor leaks so I need to replace it. I've purchased a new accumulator/drier, orifice tube and compressor. I removed the old accumulator and orifice tube. The orifice tube has a lot of junk in it's screen and the accumulator is basically dry. I've put the new orifice tube in and the new accumulator. Do I need to flush the system and if so what's the best way to do this? If I do need to do I need to remove the new parts first? How much oil do I need to add to the accumulator? I've got a hand vacuum pump would that be good enough to pull a vacuum on the system and if so where would I attach it? The compressor is next what's the best way to take that out without damaging anything else? The new compressor says it was shipped without oil. How much oil do I need to add to it? What type of oil do I need to get? I'm going back R12 because I have quite a bit of it. How much R12 will I need to add after I get it buttoned back up?
Going Through A/C System Need Help
- Thread starter MRP78
- Start date
Do I need to flush the system and if so what's the best way to do this?
Yes - Flush cylinder and flush solvent - both can be purchased locally. You may get a better deal on the flush cylinder online.
If I do need to do I need to remove the new parts first?
Yes, don't flush the compressor or accumulator. Search here for other flushing tips.
How much oil do I need to add to the accumulator?
~8oz PAG150 if R134a and system flushed, 2oz on the condenser, 2 oz in compressor (rotate 10 times on bench with new oil in it, (Thanks Charlief!)) balance in accumulator.
I've got a hand vacuum pump would that be good enough to pull a vacuum on the system and if so where would I attach it?
No. You can get electric units at Harbor Freight for < $100. You will need a manifold gauge set to do this job right. You may be able to borrow the vacuum pump from a local parts store.
The compressor is next what's the best way to take that out without damaging anything else?
It's pretty straightforward. Removing/moving the intercooler can make it easier to R&R.
The new compressor says it was shipped without oil. How much oil do I need to add to it?
See above.
What type of oil do I need to get?
If using R12 - Ester/mineral oil, if using R134a - PAG100
I'm going back R12 because I have quite a bit of it.
You should convert to R134a (Or office duster
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/ot-air-conditioner-alternative-refrigerant-hfc152a.395496/ ),
sell the R12 and make a mint. Every lb you use is worth about 40.00, whereas R134a is ~$10. The duster gimmick is even cheaper.
How much R12 will I need to add after I get it buttoned back up?
Charge is located on the A/C label - 3.25lb, or 52oz
Yes - Flush cylinder and flush solvent - both can be purchased locally. You may get a better deal on the flush cylinder online.
If I do need to do I need to remove the new parts first?
Yes, don't flush the compressor or accumulator. Search here for other flushing tips.
How much oil do I need to add to the accumulator?
~8oz PAG150 if R134a and system flushed, 2oz on the condenser, 2 oz in compressor (rotate 10 times on bench with new oil in it, (Thanks Charlief!)) balance in accumulator.
I've got a hand vacuum pump would that be good enough to pull a vacuum on the system and if so where would I attach it?
No. You can get electric units at Harbor Freight for < $100. You will need a manifold gauge set to do this job right. You may be able to borrow the vacuum pump from a local parts store.
The compressor is next what's the best way to take that out without damaging anything else?
It's pretty straightforward. Removing/moving the intercooler can make it easier to R&R.
The new compressor says it was shipped without oil. How much oil do I need to add to it?
See above.
What type of oil do I need to get?
If using R12 - Ester/mineral oil, if using R134a - PAG100
I'm going back R12 because I have quite a bit of it.
You should convert to R134a (Or office duster
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/ot-air-conditioner-alternative-refrigerant-hfc152a.395496/ ),sell the R12 and make a mint. Every lb you use is worth about 40.00, whereas R134a is ~$10. The duster gimmick is even cheaper.
How much R12 will I need to add after I get it buttoned back up?
Charge is located on the A/C label - 3.25lb, or 52oz
Thanks that helps a lot. I've got the old compressor off. I've decided to convert to 134.
Can I flush at the compressor lines attachment since it is off and out of the way?
I wasn't able to find the flushing kit locally but they sell an aerosol flush at pep boys for $16.99. Could I flush the lines with this and then blow it out with a compressor?
I've got a Venturi vacuum pump that I can attach to my air compressor to pull vacuum.
Interdynamics has a retrofit and recharge kit. Has 2 - 15 oz cans of 134. Each can has 3 oz of oil 6 total. I plan to put 2 oz in the compressor and 3 oz in the accumulator. Will it be ok to use the 134 with the oil or do I need just 134 by itself?
Can I use ester oil in the compressor and accumulator since its compatible with both 12 and 134?
How much 134 will I need once its back together?
Can I flush at the compressor lines attachment since it is off and out of the way?
I wasn't able to find the flushing kit locally but they sell an aerosol flush at pep boys for $16.99. Could I flush the lines with this and then blow it out with a compressor?
I've got a Venturi vacuum pump that I can attach to my air compressor to pull vacuum.
Interdynamics has a retrofit and recharge kit. Has 2 - 15 oz cans of 134. Each can has 3 oz of oil 6 total. I plan to put 2 oz in the compressor and 3 oz in the accumulator. Will it be ok to use the 134 with the oil or do I need just 134 by itself?
Can I use ester oil in the compressor and accumulator since its compatible with both 12 and 134?
How much 134 will I need once its back together?
I am NOT an A/C pro by FAR, just a hobbyist- keep that in mind.
Can I flush at the compressor lines attachment since it is off and out of the way?
The lines, yes.
I wasn't able to find the flushing kit locally but they sell an aerosol flush at pep boys for $16.99. Could I flush the lines with this and then blow it out with a compressor?
I don't now, I have only used a device like this: http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-91046-A-Conditioner-System-Flush/dp/B000HAUXLE
I am sure there's other ways to flush the lines.. I spent a lot of time making sure to get as much of the A/C Flush liquid out of the condenser, evaporator, etc as I could.
I've got a Venturi vacuum pump that I can attach to my air compressor to pull vacuum.
Those have worked for others, not me. - you need a very powerful compressor for them to work well. Check with the local Autozone/O'reilly's/friends/etc and see if you can get an electric vacuum pump.
Interdynamics has a retrofit and recharge kit. Has 2 - 15 oz cans of 134. Each can has 3 oz of oil 6 total. I plan to put 2 oz in the compressor and 3 oz in the accumulator. Will it be ok to use the 134 with the oil or do I need just 134 by itself?
If it's an R124A kit, then the included oil should work fine.
Can I use ester oil in the compressor and accumulator since its compatible with both 12 and 134?
I suppose. It depends if it's compatible with R134, and you have flushed the system correctly.
How much 134 will I need once its back together
Using data from my previous post:
The R134A/HC152A ratio is .64. Factory fill is ~52oz, 52 * .64 = 33.28oz HC152A + ~8oz oil.
You can put it in before vacuuming it down. Leave it on a strong vacuum for at LEAST 1 hr, I err on the safe side, and usually vac for 2hrs.
The vac won't pull out an appreciable amount of oil.
There's ways to add oil to an already vac system, it's never been an issue for me.
As Mark stated, add the oil first and when you put it in the compressor turn the clutch several times until you hear it start sucking. Once everything is on and under suction keep turning the compressor to get any globs of oil out of it. The longer you leave it under vacuum the more moisture will be removed from the system. At 30 inches of vacuum water boils at 56 degrees if I remember right, and the pump may have some steam blowing out if it's strong enough.
turbonut85
Rarely used member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2008
I would replace all the o rings and put the system back together. Suck it down to at least 29" of vacuum, and then close the gauge manifold valve. Take note of the vac reading on the gauge...then let it sit for two hours with the valve closed....if the gauge hasn't moved AT ALL....then you are good to go to charge the system. If the vac dropped (even one inch) you have a leak, and you need to find/fix it or you'll be wasting your time and $$$ on the freon.
The compressor came with several different sealing washers and not very good directions. My lines look to be flat face with short pilots. The holes look the same diameter each 5/8". This calls for black on suction (bottom port) and green on discharge (top port) and a short insert also on the discharge. Does it matter which side of the washer goes toward the compressor? What's the deal with the insert? My old compressor didn't have one. How does it go in? It's smaller on one end and larger on the other?? If I put it in the compressor port it just moves around. I can insert it in the washer and get it to stay in that but does the small end go toward the line or toward the compressor?
You really need a good, strong vacuum pump to remove any moisture from the system. It may take an hour to vac all the moisture out.
Here is a link to an inexpensive set of 134a gauges.
http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-ma...zIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk IjoiMjQ2MyJ9
Here is a link to an inexpensive set of 134a gauges.
http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-ma...zIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk IjoiMjQ2MyJ9
.......also, here is a link to an automotive AC forum that is a wealth of information. They are affiliated with an auto AC component website.
http://www.autoacforum.com/categories.cfm?catid=2
http://www.autoacforum.com/categories.cfm?catid=2
