Going 4l80E, I'm off the deep end again!

Would you mind sharing how exactly you did it? I haven't taken the dash apart yet so if you could let us know which wire is the one I need to tap into that would be greatly appreciated.
 
I didn't do it myself but a bit of searching and you can find the vss wire. I know caspers website has a vss module with instructions you can download too if you need more help finding the wire. The settings are on the control pad itself, I don't remember the actual ppm setting I used but I have an autometer electronic speedo so it's probably not the same anyways
 
Dsapper,
Maybe I didn't describe what I'm trying to do well enough, I'm trying to get the "factory" digital dash to work by tapping in the signal from the TCI 4l80e computer. I know there is tail house adapters and the tci speedo drive, and aftermarket speedo's that work but I'm trying to avoid using these.
 
I got that. I thought the digital dashes were electronic speedos. If they are then the tci computer will work.
 
got some pics.
As you can see, there are a couple of "shim spacers" in the mix. I did that to be able to fine tune the engine angle. [Currently at 4*.]
The lower plate 1/4". [The top plate is a spacer, so the large plate will clear the tail hsg at the ft.] I just cut the orig mount tab off, and made a new one. I used the "reversed plate" to get the x member in it's original location. [The engine is moved back as far as I thot practical.. About 1" off the firewall.]
The mount is a Energy Suspension Poly.
If anyone needs more info/pics, let me know..
 

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First, let me start off with saying that my thoughts and prayers are with those in Oklahoma affected by these terrible storms. I used to live in Oklahoma and went through a tornado in elementary school. I still remember that nightmare. On a better note, I FINALLY got the car back! We wasted no time taking it apart, took a little over an hour to get the 2004r out. Below are some pics of the progress.

Chuck, thanks for those pics, that will be of huge help!

Paul
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Does anyone have a good recommendation for a dipstick? I was thinking about buying the lokar unit but heard its a nightmare to fill. If that is really the best choice, what is the part number or correct length I need to get?

Paul
 
Does anyone have a good recommendation for a dipstick? I was thinking about buying the lokar unit but heard its a nightmare to fill. If that is really the best choice, what is the part number or correct length I need to get?

Paul

Haven't gotten that far, yet. Will pick up a tube from my trans guy, and see what's needed...Later.
 
I'm just going to dump a bunch of pictures from yesterday's work. I found out that the the linkage and bracket off the 200 will allow me to use the stock shifter. The alignment isn't the greatest but the shifter feels and clicks into each gear perfectly! You'll have to slot the holes on the shifter cable bracket to get the correct spacing. Also, Chuck, please don't laugh at our welds... no where near as nice as your tig. We took a different approach on the crossmember, As you can see, we cutout where the trans mount goes and then reinforced it with 1/4" steel plate. From the outside it almost looks factory and is stronger than hell. I still need to figure out the linkage that goes to the steering column but the more I think about it, the more I want to just remove it. Is there any downsides to not hooking this up?
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Yeah, I might research to see if I could install the 4l80e selector switch and use that for the neutral safety. Another thing crossed my mind, are the reverse lights ran off the column linkage too?
 
The 4L PNP switch has provisions for Neutral and back up lites.
I use the N/S provision on my 4L60E in the 55. I ran the purple start sol wire thru a relay and use the PNP output to close that relay. I don't have back up lites.
On the Buick, the back up is also on the column.
 
Didn't get too much progress done these past two days, had to actually go work... Either way, all the mechanical task is done, now it's just wiring up all the electrical. (The part I hate) ill be out of town for a week so it'll have to wait until then. Just some info, got the drive shaft made, fits perfect, it's 47.125" from yoke center to pinion center. Also finished up the coolant lines. I just ran braided stainless to make it easy. I have to say that this transmission is a great fit in our cars. I'm surprised how smoothly the install is going.
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What wheel are you using and what backspacing. You car really looks like a G Machine... Good work...
 
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