GN Un-build?
- Thread starter Mike E
- Start date
I decided instead of powder coating the shifter boot plate, I would make the other plates match. The pictures aren't great, but I epoxied pieces of aluminum sheet onto the areas where it used to be dark grey.
Started on a new switch panel, just waiting on the switches to show up.
I decided to follow this guys recommendations on sound proofing. A lot of people recommended it and I can't say I know better. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Layer of Fat Mat to keep the panels vibrations low especially on the rear firewall.
Then a layer of 1/8" closed cell foam covered in a layer of MLV (mass loaded vinyl) This stuff is heavy. I probably added 100lb into the car but it should be as quiet as a new car. I have to pick up some contact cement tomorrow to glue all the loose edges together. Finish the rear firewall and then I can put the interior back in for the last time.
Started on a new switch panel, just waiting on the switches to show up.
I decided to follow this guys recommendations on sound proofing. A lot of people recommended it and I can't say I know better. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Layer of Fat Mat to keep the panels vibrations low especially on the rear firewall.
Then a layer of 1/8" closed cell foam covered in a layer of MLV (mass loaded vinyl) This stuff is heavy. I probably added 100lb into the car but it should be as quiet as a new car. I have to pick up some contact cement tomorrow to glue all the loose edges together. Finish the rear firewall and then I can put the interior back in for the last time.
Wiseman118
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2010
This is one sick build! I can't wait to see it when you are finished. I also like the stance of your GN.
I love how those Weld Wheels look. What are the specs on them (Offset, width , etc) ? Can you post a side picture so we can see them better? Thanks
I love how those Weld Wheels look. What are the specs on them (Offset, width , etc) ? Can you post a side picture so we can see them better? Thanks
KL Mallender
Certified Dumb****
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2007
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you brother, that is a great build up, kudos to you.
Kevin.
Kevin.
18x9 Weld RTS front with 5.1" backspacing and high pad brake clearance. 245/40/18 MT Sport Comp tires. SC&C stage 2 front suspension with SPC lowers and Baer T4 brakes. The baer brakes push the wheels out 1/2" vs. stock brakes.
18x11 Weld RTS rear with 5.7 backspacing and medium pad brake clearance. But, the rearend is narrowed about 3/8" per side. Frame is notched and stock wheel wells are stretched about 1". 305/35/18's M/T Drag Radials on the rear
These are the only side shots I have. The car is on jackstands in the garage right now and I can't get far enough away to get a good picture. They look much better in person than in the pictures.
Yay, I have interior again! I think the front seats have been in and out of the car 10 times on this conversion, hopefully they are in for good now.
Next project is the trunk. I'm going to seal up all the holes. Install a removable panel over the fuel pump hole and spare tire well. Finish up the rear wiring for the fuel pumps and batter disconnect. Repaint the rear cage down bars after removing all the other tubes. Then install a nice thin black carpet.
Next project is the trunk. I'm going to seal up all the holes. Install a removable panel over the fuel pump hole and spare tire well. Finish up the rear wiring for the fuel pumps and batter disconnect. Repaint the rear cage down bars after removing all the other tubes. Then install a nice thin black carpet.
It's going to be hard to say how much it helps mine because of the length of time between the last time I drove it and when it's done. It had zero sound deadening or jute padding in it, so anything will be better. I'm still going to get noise transferred from the cage, but I'm hoping for a drastic improvement.
I really didn't want to work on the trunk today, so I started on my crank pulley instead.
I had a V-belt on it before with just an alternator. To use the Turbo Buick power steering pump, I had to switch to a 6 rib belt. I could only find one place that made a 1" mandrel driven 6" 6 rib belt. It wasn't exactly what I wanted and they think a lot of them, so I figured I would just make it myself.
I have a piece of 1" x 6" flat bar that will work. If I had a 6" round piece that might have been better, but I used what I had.
First bore the 1" ID in it, so I can fixture there and build off that centerline. Drilled it 7/8" and then bored to size with a boring bar.
The I found a piece of 1.5" scrap to build a mandrel out of.
I roughted out the OD in the bandsaw and mill and started turning.
Finshed to size. 6.000" OD.
I had a V-belt on it before with just an alternator. To use the Turbo Buick power steering pump, I had to switch to a 6 rib belt. I could only find one place that made a 1" mandrel driven 6" 6 rib belt. It wasn't exactly what I wanted and they think a lot of them, so I figured I would just make it myself.
I have a piece of 1" x 6" flat bar that will work. If I had a 6" round piece that might have been better, but I used what I had.
First bore the 1" ID in it, so I can fixture there and build off that centerline. Drilled it 7/8" and then bored to size with a boring bar.
The I found a piece of 1.5" scrap to build a mandrel out of.
I roughted out the OD in the bandsaw and mill and started turning.
Finshed to size. 6.000" OD.
turbobitt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
Jones makes the pulleys and can be made with the 1" bore and key. There website only list the 1" bore and pin style.
http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/csPul.html#5102
AG.
http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/csPul.html#5102
AG.
They wanted an extra $50 to key one of their pin drive pulleys, on top of the already overpriced pulley.
In the final episode of our three part mini series - "As the Pulley Turns"
I did a little detail work on the sides while it was still in the lathe.
Then setup the rotary table in the mill.
And setup the pulley on the rotary table.
Then just cut away everything that isn't a pulley.
Do a little deburring and hit it with some scotchbrite this is what's left.
On the motor. I have to put an idler pulley up around that left button head bolt, that's for tomorrow.
I did a little detail work on the sides while it was still in the lathe.
Then setup the rotary table in the mill.
And setup the pulley on the rotary table.
Then just cut away everything that isn't a pulley.
Do a little deburring and hit it with some scotchbrite this is what's left.
On the motor. I have to put an idler pulley up around that left button head bolt, that's for tomorrow.
I had to add an idler to the mix to get it all to work.
I added an angled piece to help support the pulley and used some b7 all thread and made a nut/ pulley locator.
That holds the pulley just fine.
Instead of keying the crank pulley I decided to convert it all over to pin drive. Each pulley has a set of pressed in 1/4" dowel pins and two slip fit holes on the other side. The mandrel has two pressed in pins and the nut on the end has two slip fit holes. It all stacks up together. This will not have any issues, it's solid.
All finished. Gotta find a belt that fits.
I added an angled piece to help support the pulley and used some b7 all thread and made a nut/ pulley locator.
That holds the pulley just fine.
Instead of keying the crank pulley I decided to convert it all over to pin drive. Each pulley has a set of pressed in 1/4" dowel pins and two slip fit holes on the other side. The mandrel has two pressed in pins and the nut on the end has two slip fit holes. It all stacks up together. This will not have any issues, it's solid.
All finished. Gotta find a belt that fits.
