GN home now. Still won't crank!!!

[v8eater]

Well, got the GN home now. Still won't crank!!!
I have check every fuse on the fuse block--all good.
Fuel pump relay--good(even tried a new one).
Got about a 1/2 tank of guess. Got fuel pressure at the release valve(don't have a gauge, pushed the needle in and gas shot out far). Fuel pump will run for about three or four seconds after trying to crank. I don't have any tester such as coilpak or cam sensor. I did use a circuit tester to see if I had power to the injector. I didn't have power with the car switched on. Should I have power at the injector with the car switch on or only with the car running?
I also tried to read the codes by shorting to A&B slots and counting the numbers of times the SES light blinks, But the damn light didn't blink.
Could it be the cam senson? Is there a way to check it with out buying a new one and finding out it was bad after all.

I got a good deal on the GN. It has a little rust but nothing that can't be replaced with fiberglass parts. Maybe theres another reason I got such a good deal, like IT WON'T RUN!!! HELP....

Thanks James.

 

[GN ERGY]

Did you try jumping it with another vehicle? Don't start changing things like cam sensors before you get it running, or at least cranking over good. Let us know what else you come up with.
Tarey D.

 

[v8eater]

Alternator buzzes also.

Oh..I forgot one more thing. Does anyone else's alternator have a buzzing sound when you switch the car on. Not real loud, you have to place your ear right to the alternator to here it. My "86 doesn't do that. Just courious. James

 

[3.8vsix]

Are you getting fire to the plugs? If not could be you crank sensor. just a thought.

 

[OneLethal87GN]

I've had crank sensors go out for no reason. Even ones I bought less than a year before. Your car will turn over but not start. It's only about $20 at Advance Auto. Kinda tricky to put on though. If that's not it at least you're not out a load of money. I would suggest trying that first. Sounds to me it might be your problem.

 

[v8eater]

Okay..got a chance to look at the GN somemore.

I checked all fuses...all good.
I checked the fuel relay with a new one....it was good.
Tried to jump the car with my truck....nothing different.
Checked for spark at the plug....it has spark but seemed to be kinda weak.
Checked for power at the injector harness plug with a probe....it has power while trying to crank.

Motor will turn over good, has spark, getting fuel but still won't run. What gives?

I might have one more thing to check. The metal fuel line coming from the tank has rusted bad and sprung a leak at the drivers door. It may have rusted bad enough to send trash up the line to the injector(s).
I have a new crank sensor but haven't tried it.
Anyone got anything else that I could check.

Thanks James L.

 

[striker_29]

My money is on the crank sensor. If not, then cam sensor. One of the two I bet. Good luck

 

[URSPANKED]

Mine did the same thing. Turned out that most of the teeth were sheared off the timing gear.

 

[Grandnat]

to save you alot of headache......go to your local autoparts store and purchase a "noid" light (injector test light). Plug it in to the injector connector and try cranking the car....you should see the light start rapidly flashing.

if not then you can at least narrow your problem to fuel.



if it does not flash........ read below



You should have switched power to all the injectors as long as the key is in the on position. Check the brown wire on each injector to confirm this. You should see ~12volts.

If you are not getting power then unplug the injector wiring harness and check if you are getting power to the main wiring harness plug itself. This should be the pin attached to a black wire with a pink strip if memory serves me correctly.



if you get power there, then it is most likely a corroded pin on the injector harnes.....try to clean it.


If you aren't getting power at the main wiring harness plug then you need to take a closer look at the "FP/INJ" fuse and see if it is burn't......if it is not.....then check for power there, at the fuse plug, with the key on.



If all the above checks out and you have confirmed spark.... I would try swapping cam sensor and computer (weak or bad drivers can cause these kinds of problems)


This will at least help eleminate some stuff.


of course check the simple stuff first.... spark, crank sensor etc etc.

 

[arista5]

i could have missed a line or two, but if your not cranking at all, i would look into the starter. all the other things help it run once the flywheel/crank is turning.

can you turn the engine?

remove the oil fill and have someone crank the engine, make sure you see the valvetrain also moving, you might have a bad timing chain

 

[paddyjam]

check the orange power line off the battery feeding the computer. if it came apart at the connector it'll crank but won't fire.

 

[Edward]

GN won't start

V8eater,

I second that paddyjam! I won't get into a lot of detail but my friends and I solved the very same problem with my car after installing a Walbro 340 and hot wire kit from Racetronix. We went through nearly the same things you've done to diagnose the problem.

Everything checked out except whenever the key was in the "on" position but not started, we did not hear the pump priming. So my friend checked the orange ECM wire by my battery and took a multimeter to it and found a problem at the fuse holder. Either the fuse was blown or the wire inside the insulation was split. The wire was split! Chalk it up to human error! While I was hooking up the new ground wire from the battery post to the inside fender along with the new supplied battery terminals in the kit, I was shifting other wires around and I must have nudged it enough that it came loose.

A new in-line fuse holder solved it.

 

[Edward]

GN won't start

BTW, this happened yesterday! Let us know what you find out.