Getting the car to look its best...opinions?

Zaino

:mad:

I have used it for a couple of years. Just got done getting mine ready for the Nationals. The last time I thought it was just me, because the wax haze would not come off easily. This time, same thing (Z-5). I don't know whether this stuff has a shelf life, but I am pissed. I grant that the finish is almost 25 years old, but it looks good and the car lives in the garage.

When I get back from the Nationals, I am stripping this stuff off and going with Jax.

Zaino, you're fired.
 
I am always willing to try something new but Zaino has not failed me. I have never tried the Jax products but when I saw the results from the Zaino I stocked up on it. It will be a while before I buy anything else.
 
I think I will first try that 3M Imperial Hand Glaze...just because I am sure I can get it at CarQuest's Paint department. I am willing to give it a try. If it is not up to par, then I will start my ordering. Oh...one last thing...any tricks on working around the turbo hood emblems? Q-Tips?
 
I think I will first try that 3M Imperial Hand Glaze...just because I am sure I can get it at CarQuest's Paint department. I am willing to give it a try. If it is not up to par, then I will start my ordering. Oh...one last thing...any tricks on working around the turbo hood emblems? Q-Tips?
If you have a Sherwin Williams automotive paint supply near you, they also carry the 3M line up.
Hood emblems, Don't touch anywhere near them with the buffer unless you want it to say ".8", lol.
 
3M Imperial hand glaze. On a black non-clearcoated car is tops. Apply in a swirling motion like the swirls in the paint and remove using straight back and forth moves to leave the glaze in the scratchs. This is all we used 20 years ago on Laquer paint jobs. My 62 Chevy was black all thru the 80's and early 90's. I tried several waxs, but glazes were always the best.

2nd would be 3M Fill-n-Glaze, It is pink in color, but works almost as good.

Both are available at most parts stores that have a paint and body section.

Coach

I have not tried (as of yet) any of the other products....BUT COACH WAS RIGHT! I went and picked up a bottle of the 3M Imperial Glaze. I was getting so sick and tired of my paint looking awesome until direct sunlight hit it and then all I saw were swirl marks. Well, this Glaze stuff might be a bit tricky at first to apply because you are not supposed to let it dry (learned that real quick) but it is like night and day for my GN. I would say at least 80% of the marks are gone. GONE! Just wanted to tell ya COACH!:D
 
DIAZ 87...I have to tell you, my God, your GN is beautiful. What a great job on detailing it. Just gorgeous! I'm very jealous.

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
I have not tried (as of yet) any of the other products....BUT COACH WAS RIGHT! I went and picked up a bottle of the 3M Imperial Glaze. I was getting so sick and tired of my paint looking awesome until direct sunlight hit it and then all I saw were swirl marks. Well, this Glaze stuff might be a bit tricky at first to apply because you are not supposed to let it dry (learned that real quick) but it is like night and day for my GN. I would say at least 80% of the marks are gone. GONE! Just wanted to tell ya COACH!:D

Thanks Vader. After you mess with it a few times, you get the idea of what your paint job requires as far as how to apply and remove. I have always applied it in a swirling motion, and removed using straight back and forth moves. This leaves the glaze in the swirls you are trying to cover up. My GN is only a 21000 car, but the paint is terrible. The glaze is the only thing that makes it look pretty good. I am glad it worked for you.

Have fun.
 
I agree that Zaino and Adams both make AWESOME products, but I have gotten GREAT results with off the shelf stuff from auto parts stores or WalMart...this isnt a GN, I know, but it still shows my results:

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I begin by strip washing the car/truck with dish soap and water. I then clay it with a Meguair's bar and a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water. Then I wash it again. In the pics above, my truck was done with 3 coats of NuFinish polish, follow by 2 coats of Meguair's NXT paste wax. After that, I gave it a good wipedown with Trurtlewax "Ice" detailing spray. The shine lasts for months!

Oh, I do it all by hand too...no buffing here :)
 
Took some of the above advice and used a clay bar for the first time ever and WOW, I have never had such a smooth finish on a car, EVER! I used it on my daily driver GS with original paint (11 years old) and it just feels and looks amazing.

Question is, i still have the acid rain spots on some of the top surfaces, what can I do to remove that? I do everything by hand currently, do I need to buff them out? I would really like to try to get them out by hand some how. Any advice appreciated.
 
Are you sure its acid rai, or could it just be water spots from the rain? If its acid damage, I'm not sure there really is any fix for it. Hard water spots on the other hand, can usually be removed with a bit of rubbing compound on a microfiber towel. It will take a bit of rubbing to do it by hand, but it can be done.
 
Its possible that is just water spots from the rain. Ill try some rubbing compound and see what happens.
 
#1
As far as wax goes I use 2 different kinds:
For older lacquer based paint I use: No.20 - This product is designed to be used on old type paint has a nice luster, breathable, and real good UV protection rating. Can be used on late model paint as well. This product can be bought at your local body shop supply store.

For newer paint and vehicles that spend a lot of time out it the sun: Collinites no. 925 boat wax. Yes it is a little harder to get off, but has nice luster, very durable, excellent UV rating. This product also allows the paint to breath. This can be bought a your local boat supply store IE Boat US West Marine, etc.

Note: These are waxes,not cleaners.

I have used both for years on 1957 / 1972 / factory paints as well as late model. And yes on black.

#2
Chrome/aluminum: Mothers polish & Eagle One Nevr-dull

#3
Clean wheels with soap and water only
Wesley's for spot clean bad areas
Never use tire dressing, it ruins the rubber after UV exposure.
Plus the wet tire look is for kids and people with 20"s

#4
I use no product on mat or flat trim except soap and water. They all scare me and I have seen too many of them ruin the trim over the years. Plus they are prone to collecting dust and finger prints.

#5
I had a case on a early 90's car that Gunk engine cleaner took the factory paint off the strut towers.
I use simple green or pre-cleano

#6
I have found 3M hard shell dries the best. All other brands I have used never really dry hard to the touch. So you get "goop" on your hands a month later when you touch it. The down fall to 3M is it dries black with a brown undertone to it. I do not like the color. I would much rather see a true deep black.

#7
Pre-cleano is without a doubt the most effective and safest for the finish.

#8
I use nothing, but hard work when waxing. Any of those gimmick polishes for shows and such are short lived. Usually contain silicone (big no no for paint) don't last but a few days if that, and attract & hold dust.

#9
SprayWay glass cleaner.
The trick to clean glass is not so much in the cleaner as it is the rag.

Be very careful with the clay bar. If not used correctly it will scratch the paint. The trick is to keep the surface very wet and slick with soap and water. Clean the clay very often. When I do one of mine I usually clean the clay approximately 40-50 times. Keep the clay soft, constantly knead in your hands. Be aware you may pic dirt out of the paint with it, once stuck in the clay it can cause very bad scratches.

Bobby
 
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