I don't normally do front disk brake servicing, so I have some very basic "newbie" questions.
The questions are general enough, that even though it's specifically for my chevy blazer SUV, it should still be relevant for TRs, and not off-topic.
1) new brake rotor - surface finish.
When I've had the dealer do brake jobs, the always apply a cross-hatched, "honed-looking" final finish to the rotors. I can understand doing that if the rotors were turned or cut, but what about brand-new GM rotors?
Should new GM rotors be used "as-is", or should they have a cross-hatched finish applied?
2) caliper lubrication
GM provides a very small pack of silicon paste lube with new pad kits, for lubricating the sliding parts of caliper and the rear contact points of pads -- which may not be enough if I flub and have to clean-off & re-apply grease.
What do you all prefer to use for caliper lube?
3M # 08946 seems very similar to the GM grease, in specs and appearance (rated to 400ºF).
StaLube/CRC make a "synthetic caliper grease" rated to 600ºF, dark grey color, seems thicker than the GM silicone lube -- which may not allow the caliper to "float" or slide as easily.
Thoughts?
3) pad & rotor break-in
For street pads, I've always just driven moderately for the first 50-100 miles and avoided extreme braking situations -- nothing special.
But the racing-oriented brake manufacturers often recommend a more elaborate "bedding" procedure involving a gentle warm-up followed by 7-8, very hard, near-stops.
For example, see:
Instructions for bedding in your brakes
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
Seems overkill for a street vehicle -- thoughts ?
4) cleaning brake rotors.
Instructions in the GM box specifically state "clean rotors only with dishwashing soap and water - do not use solvent brake cleaners".
This makes no sense to me. There's quite a bit of oily protectant on the new rotors that needs to be washed off.
Is GM just trying to be "environmentally aware" and discourage use of solvents? OTOH, soap is very good for lifting any surface grit and residual particles.
Maybe I'll wash rotors with soap followed by solvent spraying ;-).
I noted the GM rotors were "made in china" , very disappointing. I hope GM is maintaining quality standards and I don't have a box of defective/toxic cheap chinese crap on my hands ;-)
TIA !
The questions are general enough, that even though it's specifically for my chevy blazer SUV, it should still be relevant for TRs, and not off-topic.
1) new brake rotor - surface finish.
When I've had the dealer do brake jobs, the always apply a cross-hatched, "honed-looking" final finish to the rotors. I can understand doing that if the rotors were turned or cut, but what about brand-new GM rotors?
Should new GM rotors be used "as-is", or should they have a cross-hatched finish applied?
2) caliper lubrication
GM provides a very small pack of silicon paste lube with new pad kits, for lubricating the sliding parts of caliper and the rear contact points of pads -- which may not be enough if I flub and have to clean-off & re-apply grease.
What do you all prefer to use for caliper lube?
3M # 08946 seems very similar to the GM grease, in specs and appearance (rated to 400ºF).
StaLube/CRC make a "synthetic caliper grease" rated to 600ºF, dark grey color, seems thicker than the GM silicone lube -- which may not allow the caliper to "float" or slide as easily.
Thoughts?
3) pad & rotor break-in
For street pads, I've always just driven moderately for the first 50-100 miles and avoided extreme braking situations -- nothing special.
But the racing-oriented brake manufacturers often recommend a more elaborate "bedding" procedure involving a gentle warm-up followed by 7-8, very hard, near-stops.
For example, see:
Instructions for bedding in your brakes
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
Seems overkill for a street vehicle -- thoughts ?
4) cleaning brake rotors.
Instructions in the GM box specifically state "clean rotors only with dishwashing soap and water - do not use solvent brake cleaners".
This makes no sense to me. There's quite a bit of oily protectant on the new rotors that needs to be washed off.
Is GM just trying to be "environmentally aware" and discourage use of solvents? OTOH, soap is very good for lifting any surface grit and residual particles.
Maybe I'll wash rotors with soap followed by solvent spraying ;-).
I noted the GM rotors were "made in china" , very disappointing. I hope GM is maintaining quality standards and I don't have a box of defective/toxic cheap chinese crap on my hands ;-)
TIA !
