Full throttle downpipe problems

bayareaturbo

Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2004
I bought a used Full Throttle downpipe internal waste gate from a board member a few months back. I went to install yesterday and has a few problems. The first problem is it hits the frame, since it hits the frame it will not aline correct. The circle puck inside the down pipe looks to had been welded and it does not return smooth and get stuck. What should I do about these problems?
 
There's not a whole lot you can do about fitment. Sorry to say that each car sits different. You can try different motor mounts maybe. I'm sure some other guys here may have a few tricks. But you must realize that every car will just naturally sit different. It's almost impossible to design a one size fits all pipe.
About the puck? I don't know. See if the rest look like that. If not, then it's the guy who sold it to you. Take a bastard file, and start smoothin some stuff out I guess....
 
Here are a few simple steps to solve your problem.

1.)get a hammer
2.)pull off downpipe
3.)secure downpipe to stable surface
4.)hold hands securely on downpipe
5.)hit your hands because you bought a crappy used downpipe
6.)take ice and cover hands

following these simple six steps will ensure you never repeat this process again.

I know, I know, I am almost too helpful. 'Tis a curse I must bear.
 
Sometimes them 6 steps come in handy, but like TSD said, all things fit different on these cars...Motor mounts is a big cause, you can beat on lower part of DP to clear the A-arm if you must. Try and locate the source of the puck stick and grind off the slag from weld job.

Sometimes it seems like everything turns into "Custom Fab" So your not alone
 
Sounds like that thing has had some unauthorized rework / repair done to it. I have always been afraid to buy anything used for these cars.
 
Here are a few simple steps to solve your problem.

1.)get a hammer
2.)pull off downpipe
3.)secure downpipe to stable surface
4.)hold hands securely on downpipe
5.)hit your hands because you bought a crappy used downpipe
6.)take ice and cover hands

following these simple six steps will ensure you never repeat this process again.

I know, I know, I am almost too helpful. 'Tis a curse I must bear.

I like that :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: but also you could loose the turbo bracket which is only good for mounting turbo shield , brake loose three nuts on turbo to header connection . this will let you turn turbo left or right little bit , might be JUST enough to clear the issues :smile:
 
If the trans mount is old and smashed flat, replacing it will raise the rear of the engine and the dp should clear the frame.
 
I bought a used Full Throttle downpipe internal waste gate from a board member a few months back. I went to install yesterday and has a few problems. The first problem is it hits the frame, since it hits the frame it will not aline correct. The circle puck inside the down pipe looks to had been welded and it does not return smooth and get stuck. What should I do about these problems?

I had a similar problem with a crappy downpipe a bought from one on the supporting vendors. After he turned his back on me, the only choices I had were toss it out or fix it. With mine the problem was the bends were in the wrong planes.

I cut the pipe in the straight sections (cut square to the pipe), wrapped the cut with tin and clamped the tin with hose clamps. With the tin holding the pieces in line I then installed the pipe, rotated the bottom section to get the correct alignment, marked the two section, removed the pipe and had it welded.

For the puck, check out RJC’s site, I think they have downpipe parts. If you don't see what you need give them a call, they are pretty good there.
 
I will have to vote for the motor mounts.

I too purchased a used DP on the board here and to my disgust it hit the frame (even when my old 3" mild steel pipe did not).

I bought a set of HR motor mounts and installed them. The new design actually has the frame mount piece of the motor mount slotted so you can rock the engine towards the driver's side a bit to help clear the frame or rock it the other way to help with hitting the heater box.

I didn't even really need to rock the motor once I put the new mounts on but I did anyways.

As far as I can figure, my passenger side motor mount was what, 22 years old? After I pulled it off I could see what a big POS it was.

Without seeing your car, I can't guarantee this will help. But it did help my car. My next purchase will be the tranny mount replacement. I know that was mentioned earlier and I can definitely see how that would help.
 
Here are a few simple steps to solve your problem.

1.)get a hammer
2.)pull off downpipe
3.)secure downpipe to stable surface
4.)hold hands securely on downpipe
5.)hit your hands because you bought a crappy used downpipe
6.)take ice and cover hands

following these simple six steps will ensure you never repeat this process again.

I know, I know, I am almost too helpful. 'Tis a curse I must bear.

Hahahhahahah man I tell ya...
The car has HR motor mounts installed already 3K miles ago.
 
Lol

Here are a few simple steps to solve your problem.

1.)get a hammer
2.)pull off downpipe
3.)secure downpipe to stable surface
4.)hold hands securely on downpipe
5.)hit your hands because you bought a crappy used downpipe
6.)take ice and cover hands

following these simple six steps will ensure you never repeat this process again.

I know, I know, I am almost too helpful. 'Tis a curse I must bear.

x2... LOL Nice one Marley
 
Here are a few simple steps to solve your problem.

1.)get a hammer
2.)pull off downpipe
3.)secure downpipe to stable surface
4.)hold hands securely on downpipe
5.)hit your hands because you bought a crappy used downpipe
6.)take ice and cover hands

following these simple six steps will ensure you never repeat this process again.

I know, I know, I am almost too helpful. 'Tis a curse I must bear.

Man that was good...I laughed for a bit.
 
Most downpipe fitment issues are caused by the upper A arm bushing that's located right by the pipe. I had a dp that wouldn't fit until I replaced what was left of that bushing. It's a cheap and somewhat easy job.

The issue is easily solved. RJC has replacement pucks with stainless sleeves. Cut the old one out and have the new one welded in.
 
Recently went through this with a competitors dp. Remove the downpipe and clearance (enlarge) the mounting holes. This will allow up-down adjustment to clear obstructions. Remove the turbo and clearance the 3 mounting holes. This will allow left-right adjsutment.
 
Most times the turbo and down pipe can be moved by loosening the bolts and it will clear. We have not had an internal gate pipe in a very long time, any idea when it was bought from us? Or if it really was? Main reason is after TH went under for good, finding stuff that fit was next to impossible. Shoot me some pictures and I will try to help
Mike
 
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