fuel pump failing :confused:

A

AEkrot

Guest
I think that I just experienced what TurboJim described in his reply to the post "Injector Duty Cycle Calculations by FAST" about a fuel pump failure.

Originally posted by TurboJim
Months ago I had a S10 blazer in my shop. Had no power, but idled normal. Fuel pressure was 13psi, which 11-15 is spec, so I moved on. Couldnt find anything. I dont know what made me look, but I pulled the return line off the TB, and low and behold..nothing coming out with the engine running. Put a pump in it, problem solved. Moral of the story? Despite having acceptable PRESSURE, there wasnt enough VOLUME.....

I recently upgraded from a XX Mondo to a Procharger F3 on a 347 CID SB. I upgraded my fuel system at the same time from 2 SX pumps (I am told they are basically the same as the Aeromotive A1000) to a single Weldon 2035.

First time out with the new combination was this past Friday due to all the rain we've had in Houston the past 3 weeks.

I was way too rich on the first pass: <9:1 but I got things lined out in 3 passes (+/- 5% WB O2 Correction). These were 1/4 mile passes. I saw 30 psi boost at 8200 rpm and went 9.0 at 157 mph on a cold, dew covered track (I had to do some steering at the 1000' mark :D ) with a fixed 19 degree timing curve (3250#).

The next day, I went to a local 1/8 mile track to work on adjusting my suspension to handle more timing at launch. The first 2 passes were fine motor-wise (spun to a 5.6 at 128). On the 3rd pass, the car nosed over just after I shifted 2nd gear (mid track) and I got out of it immediately. I didn't note the oil or fuel pressure since I was steering a lot to go straight (20+ mph cross wind that afternoon). The video tape of the run shows no smoke at the point of failure but the engine "sounded" very different, like it was running out of gas (I didn't think that at the first time I listed to it but it is definitely NOT an "ignition gone bad" sound with popping or breaking up).

What I saw on the data log was WOT (tps 88%; boost climbing together with rpm; then the rpm and boost began falling. The O2 Correction was maintaining +/- 5% and my correction limits were set for -15%, +15%. When it nosed over it felt earily like a motor seizing up :eek: so I checked the oil for metal.

The oil was fine (even out of the filter), plugs looked fine. So I cranked the car and verified oil pressure was ok. It seemed like it took forever to fill the new filter up with oil and build pressure but it eventually did (about 30 seconds) so started it with the dashboard active. Car started and idled fine but the second I tried to give it any gas at all, it "bogged" like a carbureted car with a bad accelerator pump.

I verified my tps was working - all other sensors read normal readings, (AT, WT, O2). Then I noticed the fuel pressure wasn't quite 60psi which is were I set it. When I gave the car some gas I noticed it fluxuated down a couple psi. When I powered up the pump and watched the guage, it didn't instantly peg 60 like it did when I first installed it, instead, it went up to 30 then slowly climbed up to 58 or so but it sounded the same as when I first installed it.

I then thought I ran the car out of gas but found a nearly full cell so I then checked the fuel filters. I have a 40 micron pre-filter between the fuel cell with -12AN inlet line and a 10 micron outlet filter with -10AN line to the front fuel block and I use a funnel with a 50 micron? screen cartridge in it - I have a 1 year old plastic fuel cell. Lot's of spilled fuel later, I found that the filters looked fine so I tried it without the filters installed - SAME THING.

I'm pretty sure I have a pump that went south but can still make 58 psi given enough time but it can't flow significant volume anymore.

What do you guys think? I didn't have time to try disconncting the return line to watch how much fuel come out...

Alex
 
Pump woes??

Alex wrote:

I have a 40 micron pre-filter between the fuel cell with -12AN inlet line and a 10 micron outlet filter with -10AN line to the front fuel block.

Due to the large volume capacity of the 2035, you may have "toasted" the pump w/ the 40 micron "pre-filter". I had the same problem w/ a car here, using the Aeromotive pump.
Aeromotive recommends no filter smaller than 70 to 100 microns.
A finer filter can cause cavitation of the pump, resulting in the destruction.
In the FWIW dept. I recently had a conversation w/ someone that had gotten a recommendation from Weldon field rep to not even use a prefilter.. :eek: :eek:
Page 1 of the WELDON catalog says that "inlet filtration is strongly recommended to provide maximum performance and extend the life of any positive displacement pump."
I have also dealt with situations wherein the venting of the tank caused the pump to cavitate, get the pump hot enough to boil the gas.:eek: :eek:

Perhaps the damage to the pump has already occured and the removal of the filters would then have no effect??

jus' thinkin out loud!..;) ;)
 
Chuck,

The guy I bought the pump from was only running the 40 micron Inlet pre-filter which he sold me with the pump. I then purchased a 10 micron outlet filter upon his recommendation to protect my injectors from getting clogged.

I spoke with one of the main technical guys from Weldon about 6 months ago at a FFW or NMRA race when I first started considering a fuel system/supercharger upgrade.

He had one of the 2025's tore apart and was explaining how tight the clearances are on these pumps and that a pre-filter was mandatory to prevent damaging the pump! I told him that I had a pair of SX pumps and only had the 10 micron outlet filters on them with no inlet filter and he said that was fine for those pumps since they are not positive displacement pumps but that you MUST use an inlet filter on Weldon fuel pumps. I asked him about using a funnel with a strainer cartridge like the one I currently have (Summit). He said that's good practice but it doesn't protect the pump as well as a filter directly mounted to the pump.

He also stressed the importance of having big enough lines (which I do).

He also stressed the importance of using "port" fittings (which I do).

I sure hope you are wrong but what you are saying makes sense.

I'll post a "poll" on a separate thread to see how many people are running an inlet filter on a Weldon pump and if so, what size.

Thanks for your help!

Alex
 
the pump was not bad after all - I'm pretty sure the Fuel Pressure Regulator is stuck open.

See my other post "Inlet filter on Weldon fuel pump"

if you are interested in the details...

Thanks to everyone for their help!

Alex
 
The pump was fine - so was the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

My ignition coil failed - the car would start and idle but as soon as you gave it any gas, the motor would sputter and act like it was going lean (lean pop). Actually, it just wasn't able to fire the mixture with any cylinder pressure at all.

I apologize if I wasted anyone's time! Hopefully you learned something from this as I have.

Alex
 
Originally posted by AEkrot
I apologize if I wasted anyone's time! Hopefully you learned something from this as I have.

Alex

No need for apologizing. Most of us have been there and done stuff like that. I am always surprised at what we check to end up at the real problem.

I had a problem I chased for a couple of weeks. The car would stumble at about 2800 rpm and if I could get it over 3500 run good. I changed plugs, replaced the coil pak, checked fuel system and started changing sensors (crank, cam, map) and the problem was still there. I started to think it maybe something in the wiring harness :( and decided to change the plug wires since they were one year old and everything else was new. BINGO the problem was gone. I never seen wires go bad in a given RPM window before.

Live and learn hehehe about the time I think I understand these things I get humbled real quick hehehe you never can know it all I don't think.

I hope to see some of your runs some time at Baytown.

Take Care
 
Originally posted by AEkrot
The pump was fine - so was the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

My ignition coil failed - the car would start and idle but as soon as you gave it any gas, the motor would sputter and act like it was going lean (lean pop). Actually, it just wasn't able to fire the mixture with any cylinder pressure at all.

I apologize if I wasted anyone's time! Hopefully you learned something from this as I have.

Alex

Thats where experience comes in. I might have picked that off listening to it if fuel pressure was in spec at the point it died off. Only other option woulda been lack of fire. I'm assuming it went kinda: vrooppwahhhh....vrooopwahhhh when you blipped the throttle right? If FP wasnt 10+ psi low, I'd have gone to ignition prob, or MAF if equipped,

Ahh well, thats how it goes...least you found it and didnt hurt anything. Better safe than sorry!
 
the plot thickens - while my coil and wires did show signs of leakage (arcing), the car behaved the same at the track with a new coil, plugs and wires. I started scratching me head since I ruled out the fuel system and ignition and decided to check my timing. It was fine. Then I realized that if my harmonic balancer woodruff keys (2) sheared, the timing would "check" ok but would be off and so would the injector timing which would explain the symptoms - guess what - that was it.

Now I know why most of you guys love the turbo's - you don't have 400+ hp pulling on the front of your crankshaft!

I couldn't find a double keyed balancer in time for the race so I got a new single key unit ($240) and tried. It sheard the key when I shifted 2nd during the 1st qualifying pass. I installed it 180 out with another key that went the full length of the keyway and it sheared during the burnout of my 2nd qualifying pass. I made a woodruff key out of a 1/4" allen wrench with a grinder and file. This held and I made 4 more passes before the fuel pump failed! This time it really failed. The love-joy coupling was broken and I dissassembled it to find it totally gaulled. I also discovered that one of my fuel pressure guages (the one mounted on the cowl that is visible inside the car) reads slow and low. The guage mounted directly on the regulator is instantaneous. The malfunctioning guage is was sent me down the fuel pump rabbit trail earlier.

the below mpg's are of my car just prior to the fuel pump failure - the blower was working fine and I got the tune +/- 3% WB O2 correction...

1.31 60' 5.62 @ 126.72 mph 1/8th mile at 3225 lbs. stock style rear suspension on a "true" 10.5"x28x15 Hoosier slick!

http://www.westsidemustangs.com/por...album14/adf.mpg

http://www.westsidemustangs.com/por...album14/adg.mpg
 
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