Front brakes

[meanchicken]

I'm getting ready to re-do my front brakes. Not doing any upgrades at this time, just replacing with standard rotors and pads I can get from NAPA.

I've done disk brakes once before and that was istalling an all new SSBC power disk system on my 68 Camaro when upgrading from manual drum.

My question is...
With these Powermaster systems, is there anything I need to do differently than I would on a vacuum booster system when removing the calipers to swap the pads...any special tools?
Or is it as simple as removing a couple bolts and slipping the caliper off, slipping the old pads out, placing the new ones in, lube the slider bolts and reinstall the calipers?
Do I need any special tools to spread the old pads or keep the new pads spread?
Is there any "pitfalls" at all?
Please be specific and detailed...I'm one of those guys who exists only to prove Murphy's laws are all valid.

Rotors...at least one of them is warped, so I'll be replacing them...
I assume it's smart to also change my wheel bearings since I plan on changing the rotors. Do I set the bearings up the same as on my Camaro? Grease them; pop them in; install rotor; tighten hub nut until snug; spin rotor to make sure things are seated; back off hub nut slightly and install cotter pin.

Thanks!
Tim

 

[boostingbuick]

Calipers- 3/8 allen head bolt, two of them, remove and the caliper will come off with the pads. Remove pads and push in piston and install new pads. Lube the o-rings in the caliper where the bolt goes through.

Rotors- Removed nut, bearing and reinstall nut a few turns. Pull out and down to catch the rear bearing and will removed it from rotor with the seal. Most likey you will just need to repack the bearing and install a new seal. Install and tighen the nut to 35 ftlbs and spin the rotor a few times, back off and then to 24 ftlbs. And if the dust caps are dented replaced them.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Calipers- 3/8 allen head bolt, two of them, remove and the caliper will come off with the pads. Remove pads and push in piston and install new pads. Lube the o-rings in the caliper where the bolt goes through.

Rotors- Removed nut, bearing and reinstall nut a few turns. Pull out and down to catch the rear bearing and will removed it from rotor with the seal. Most likey you will just need to repack the bearing and install a new seal. Install and tighen the nut to 35 ftlbs and spin the rotor a few times, back off and then to 24 ftlbs. And if the dust caps are dented replaced them.

35lbs???? Should be torqued to 12 lbs while spinning the rotor and then backed off to the first slot of the castle nut.

 

[boostingbuick]

You know your right. Sorry. Think of something else.

 

[novaderrik]

there is nothing different than an older car with disc brakes.
just a simple remove, replace, and bleed procedure.

 

[meanchicken]

Thanks, guys.

I knew 35 lb ft was a bit steep ...figured it was an oversight so no worries.

At 100K miles I'll go ahead and replace the wheel bearings just for sanity sake.

I'm thinking of changing the calipers too. I think the passenger side has a tendancy to stick..I see a lot more pad dust on that side and it's the one making the noise I'm hearing also.

Tim

 

[CTX-SLPR]

Do the hoses too. My '64 Riviera hangs a wheel cylinder on occasion due to the ancient hoses collasping internally or otherwise getting minorly clogged so the shoes don't fully retract.

 

[meanchicken]

Good point.
I had that happen in my 68 Camaro too.

 

[SB406]

brakes

You may want to upgrade the lines to stainless as long as your in there. Gives you a much brtter feel at the pedal. Gust my two cents worth.

 

[meanchicken]

You may want to upgrade the lines to stainless as long as your in there. Gives you a much brtter feel at the pedal. Gust my two cents worth.

Thanks.
I picked up all my parts from NAPA yesterday. Went for the premium rotors, premium calipers, premium pads. Also picked up wheel bearings, seals and new flex lines.

The OE steel lines are still in pretty good shape so other than replacing the flex hoses, I'll leave the rest alone.

Curious about your comment tho'.
I know the steel braded flex lines can give a firmer feel than OE rubber flex lines, but I've never heard stainless hard lines were any better than the OE steel lines other than they look better and are more resistant to corrosion.

I put stainless lines in my 68 Camaro. I had to cut a flare a few around the master cylinder and proportioning valve....friggin' pain in the butt.

Tim

 

[zeus87gn]

My question is...
With these Powermaster systems, is there anything I need to do differently than I would on a vacuum booster system when removing the calipers to swap the pads...any special tools?
Thanks!
Tim

Tim,
WRT the P/M being special....
The answer to your question is Yes and No.
Yes - you need to pump the system down before you tear into the front wheels (min 10 pedal pumps with the key off).
No - There are no special tools required.

The front brakes themselves are nothing special to be aware of as others have previously stated. Your typical disc brakes.

I have some P/M bleeding tips at the link in my sig if you would like some alternative reading.

Z