from ??? to fed up ;^|

[Phantom]

For a history, see the string. BTW - thanks to all that provided input!!

Started to get the car lined out, F/P @ 41PSI, cam sensor right, retimed, all appearing OK except for continual overboosting at 1/4 throttle or more. Checked all vac lines & replaced between sender & wastegate. No change - still overboosting but it's not even an issue yet.

The latest is electrical failure at just above idle today. The car simply died. Appears no voltage at F/P but the gauge makes me a liar (holds ~41 PSI) when cranking. What indications does a failed cam sensor show - if any?

 

[HOTSIX]

If you check the voltage on the cam sensor it will show volts no matter which way the metal part underneath it is turned. In other words it will not go to zero from 7.5 or so volts when the space in the metal ring under it is in the right spot.

Rotate the crank (plugs out of course) using a johnson bar and see if you can get the sensor to show zero.

Cam setting info here:

http://www.engraver1.com/help/camset.gif

That was taken from the "Sticky" section of this forum called "Basic Hotair info".

I went through 4 cam sensors (1 was bad outts the box) when I was doing my car.

That sensor either works or it doesn't.

Any thoughts on your fuel pump being bad ?

 

[Phantom]

F/P is brand new Walbro 340 hotwired and maintaining pressure, I checked again after cranking. This felt like an electrical failure. Car was runing great at just above idle - I was moving at about 5 mph in traffic - then died & wouldn't restart. I haven't had time yet to check for spark but thought that cam would react like this.

 

[SLOW_85]

sounds more like the crank sensor. If it will turn over but no start with fuel pressure. Directions for checking are in the Hot Air info sticky at the top of the page. Hang in there!

 

[Buick From Hell]

as long as the engine is running, the cam sensor CANNOT shut it down. Crank sensor is the most likely culprit, and it's easy to check, see the "basics" post for info...

when it quit, did you notice the SES light?

If the crank sensor goes out, the SES will come on IMMEDIATELY, even if the engine is still turning (although not much turning from "above idle" to stopped obviously, so not much time to notice)

If a loose wire or a bad coil or module caused the shutdown, it's possible the SES light wouldn't come on until the engine fully stopped rotating...

 

[Phantom]

Didn't notice the SES but I was in traffic & flustered having the damn devil himself show his ugly face to me yet once again. If I could only enjoy an entire week with the hood closed & motoring I'd be rejuvenated for another 4 years!!

I'll check the ALDL next time I feel like working on it & see if it threw a code.

 

[HOTSIX]

Put me down for another vote on the crank sensor.

My bracket broke on mine...so I replaced it and the sensor to be safe.

 

[Phantom]

JUST swapped crank sensor - with an unknown (used) one. I should learn from my mistakes, but.....

 

[HOTSIX]

Did it start and run ???

C'mon man...don't leave us hangin'

 

[Phantom]

No, no.......again, I didn't clarify. The failed one was the replacement. I have a spare that was assumed toasted but I plan on swapping it in tonight & verifying.

Ign. module is original, 19 year old, 100+K miles, & untested. I'll look at it too.

 

[Phantom]

Well, I swapped the crank sensor & found the one in the car shredded. Didn't fix the problem though. The stocker that was originally on the motor has an aluminum shroud riveted to the hall effect sender - the one I removed doesn't have the shroud, just the plastic sender that slides in the bracket. Which one's right? New vs old style?

I'll get to the "NO-START TEST" tomorrow.