frame bracing

[Vandal1987]

Hey all was wondering about some creative ways to stiffen and strengthen the frame without putting a cage in. So far I am going to be re doing the body mounts and replacing them with new poly ones. I am also going to be ordering the gns frame brace kit. I will be running an H&R setup aswell. Are there any other good tricks to suggest?

 

[novaderrik]

fully box the rails.. add the GNX brace behind the rear seat..

 

[UNGN]

Body mounts are a lot of work, but just putting lowers/bolts where there aren't any makes a big difference for 20 minutes work (on a non rustbelt car).

The Cutlass Braces from the K-Member to the frame will fit and are a cheap junkyard item.

 

[charlief1]

Pull the frame and 1) box it, and 2) weld some bracing on the rear cross member. It will turn it from a wet noodle so something has has some flex, but very little twist.

 

[ALBERTAN]

You're limited what you can accomplish without removing the body to access the frame for boxing. Having said that, the thread below should give you some informative reading. Also, if you're serious, check out some of the other G body forums.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/your-car-needs-braces-best-mod-ever.310063/

 

[Vandal1987]

thanks for all the replies fellas.! Charlie would you be able to elaborate more on bracing the cross member so it is rigid but with enough flexibility to still drive it. Thanks for the link as well Albertan!! FWIW car is totally disassembled @ this point in time and the body will be becoming off and I have the k member braces as well, I got from a friend not to long ago.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Here's a link to GNS Performance where you can order a rear frame brace bracket kit. Just add the bar and your all set.
http://www.gnsperformance.com/#!bodyframe-g-body/c15ae

Here's a thread on the subject to: http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/new-rear-frame-brace-brackets.410248/

Could also try UMI's rear shock tower brace kit too.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_404&products_id=911

there's a thread about this already: http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/new-umi-rear-shock-brace.424825/

 

[charlief1]

I know I've got a pic of it somewhere but can't find it for some reason. Here's a pic of the rear crossmember and rear rails. I welded a 1" tube between the spring mounts and all along the top of the crossmember. It still allows the frame to flex but not near as much as it did originally.

There is also an after market version that bolts on where the upper shock mounts go and it's fairly cheap. The other option is to get the brackets from GNS and make one that goes at the rear of the frame rails. You do need to do some fabricating because all you get is the brackets, and you have to measure the distance between the rear rails and fabricate and weld the tubing in place for it to work.

 

[ALBERTAN]

If you pulled the body, and you're serious, take a look at Ben's thread at PT.com. The whole build is worth a read. But he gets to the work on the frame on page 13.

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/80582-Pumkinator-A-G-Body-G-Machine-grocery-getter/page13

 

[novaderrik]

i'e heard that just adding a receiver hitch stiffens up the back of the car a bunch...

 

[chris kirk]

Hey all was wondering about some creative ways to stiffen and strengthen the frame without putting a cage in. So far I am going to be re doing the body mounts and replacing them with new poly ones. I am also going to be ordering the gns frame brace kit. I will be running an H&R setup aswell. Are there any other good tricks to suggest?

If you're going to do the body mounts then you my as well take the body all the way off. I realize you don't have to, but to really do them right you should. Some of the mounts might have to be repaired because they rusted out (some of mine did) and without taking the body all the way off it's kinda hard to correctly replace/re-weld new washers in. Not saying it can't be done, but why do a shitty job on it when you don't have to. (I know I'll hear some shit about that, but it's my car and I don't do shit work to my car) Once you have the body off you can re-weld the entire frame, box in the center section, (GNS has a kit) juice up the rear lower control mounts, (HR Parts & Stuff) weld in a cross section over top the upper rear control mounts, and put in the cross bar on the back of the frame. (GNS) Would also install the gnx rear seat brace.(Kirban) And you can clean up and paint it too. Could do it all 3-4 days. Then with new body mounts the car will be tight. Will stiffen up a lot. Here are some pics of mine. Before and after. I think it's one of the best things you can do to your car. People spend a shit load of money on suspension parts but don't ever do anything to the frame and the mounts and then wonder why it's still ride and handles like shit after all the money spent. Good luck.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I know I've got a pic of it somewhere but can't find it for some reason. Here's a pic of the rear crossmember and rear rails. I welded a 1" tube between the spring mounts and all along the top of the crossmember. It still allows the frame to flex but not near as much as it did originally.
View attachment 257079
There is also an after market version that bolts on where the upper shock mounts go and it's fairly cheap. The other option is to get the brackets from GNS and make one that goes at the rear of the frame rails. You do need to do some fabricating because all you get is the brackets, and you have to measure the distance between the rear rails and fabricate and weld the tubing in place for it to work.

Mine are sim to Charlies. I think I posted some pics, some time back. Anywho, here's a couple, again.

 

[Vandal1987]

These are all gr8 replies thanks guys I am going to prolly use GNS frame brace kit there rear bar kit and maybe go with the umi suspension tower brace to. Also go with kirbans braces for the front. These all have been gr8 replies just wat I was after thx again!!

 

[ALBERTAN]

I was planning to just weld the triangulation braces off the shock tower brace right to the rear cross member. Looking at what everyone else did, welding a tube along the back of the cross member, looks like a good idea. I'll add that to the to do list.

 

[Vandal1987]

Hey Chuck how much would a welding and fab shop charge for something like that? We have a weld and fab shop across the road from my friends auto shop and would be curious to know the ballpark cost of that rear crossmember brace. Looks pretty savage by the way nice fab skills!

 

[charlief1]

I was planning to just weld the triangulation braces off the shock tower brace right to the rear cross member. Looking at what everyone else did, welding a tube along the back of the cross member, looks like a good idea. I'll add that to the to do list.

Just welding the seams up and putting the pipe across the rear cross member makes a huge difference Dean. Chuck and I both contoured the pipe to wrap partially around the spring pocket so it would have a good mount. I've thought about triangulating the rest because I want to do a notch in the frame for tire clearance but just haven't made up my mind yet.

 

[Vandal1987]

I have always wondered that myself about notching the frame it seems like you have to fab something up similar to what Chuck has on his frame to compensate for the lack of material that is @ the rear crossmember when you are done with the notching. Are you gonna go with 315 or something tires Charlie?

 

[charlief1]

Are you gonna go with 315 or something tires Charlie?

285/35/18 in the rear and 245/40/18 in the front.

 

[Vandal1987]

I guess the bigger rims play a factor on how well situated the tire sits in the well. I ran 275/60/15 with no rubbing issues or anything no rolled lip, nadda, I coulda jumped higher in tire size but woulda had to roll my fender lips for sure.

 

[charlief1]

I have 12" rotors on all 4 corners and the backspacing is a little questionable so I want to notch to make sure there won't be any rubbing issues.