FP guage. Mechanical or Electric?

djj624

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Id rather have a mechanical for accuracy, but electric is nice because it can be mounted in the car. Is electric as accurate?
 
My Autometer electric gage seems to be pretty accurate plus you can use the output of the sending unit to plug into Powerlogger for fuel pressure data logging. :cool:
 
You can mount a mechanical guage in the car. You just have to use a fuel pressure isolator. I have heard the mechanical guages are more accurate, but I have had no problems with electric on other guages. The electric guage wired to the logger sounds cool.
 
My Autometer electric gage seems to be pretty accurate plus you can use the output of the sending unit to plug into Powerlogger for fuel pressure data logging. :cool:

The autometer works well for me. Tested against my mechanical. The PL is a Bonus! ;)
 
I have had fuel gauges for years on diesels mounted in-cab...I did have to refill the isolator line once (it uses antifreeze) between the gauge and isolator. Seems to be very accurate.
 
With the Autometer electrical fuel gauge, where does the sender go? On the end of the fuel rail? Is an adapter required?
 
Yes adapters are required. With the system un pressurized take out the shrader valve out of the end of the rail. I used a Russell part number 670290, this is a #4 fuel pressure take off, This has a 1/8 threaded hole for the sender...you'll also need a 661950 # 4 flare cap. This will allow you to place the sender at a right angle to the fuel rail. This is on a TTA...On my old GN i had the sender coming straight off the rail....but you should be good...
 
you guys with the autometer electrics, the sender that you put on the fuel rail, has anybody experianced any bad ones latly? I remember reading on the other site that there must have been a bad batch of them that got out. about ten guys all said there guage was way off, i figured that it was just a bad batch and i havent heard anything latly.

the last one that i installed, it was on a powerstroke diesel, worked fine and was dead on accurate. I installed it a year and a half ago, anybody install one recently? thanks guys!
 
Any Tips

I have had fuel gauges for years on diesels mounted in-cab...I did have to refill the isolator line once (it uses antifreeze) between the gauge and isolator. Seems to be very accurate.

Any tips for filling the line with antifreeze to the isolator? I have had trouble with air in the line and no reading on the gage.
 
Read my thread "don't believe everything you see" , my electric was dead on with 2 other high end non automotive mechanical gauges. I think I'm going to remount the sender off of the rail though .
 
Good idea!

I mount the sender on the fender via a braided line from fuel rail.
+2...
I always mount remote. I see no value in exposing the rail fitting to the added wt and vibration. I make a "j block" w/ an extra -4 fitting/cap in it. That way, I can compare readings w/o unhooking the line at the rail.

I also have my inj bench plumbed to make gauge tests, by comparing them to what the bench gauge reads. [And no, the silver $ size gauges don't have a good rep!]:eek:
 
My autometer phantom 2 1/16 elec FP gauge is dead on compared to 2 other mechanical gauges. I used the Metco fuel rail adapter for the sensor after removing the schrader valve (special tool to remove valve is needed). Been using it almost 6 yrs I think.
 
Any tips for filling the line with antifreeze to the isolator? I have had trouble with air in the line and no reading on the gage.

No tricks...just took my time and kept adding it, letting it burp...then adding more...filled it then waited a few minutes w/ the little fill bolt off..then topped it off again a few times.
 
Top